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STONE'S 



Advanced Superlative 



Coat and Vest System 



BASED UPON 



The Proportions of the Human Form 



By 
CHAS. J. STONE 

Chicago, 111. 



Giving the Correct Proportions for Forms of All Sizes, Illustrated with Diagrams, 

Accompanied by Full Instructions for Drafting by Proportions 

and by Actual Measurements the Various Styles of 

Gentlemen's Coats and Vestsi 



Published by 

THE CHAS. J. STONE COMPANY 

Chicago 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat a/id Test System 



Copyright 1910 

BY THE CHAS. J. STONE CO. 

Chicago 






It 1 



©CI.A265V'11 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 






DEDICATION 

TO the representatives of excel- 
lence in the designing and cut- 
ting of garments for men; those who 
are imbued with the spirit of progress 
and who also hold fast that which is 
good; to the advanced students of the 
tailoring craft, this work is dedicated 
by the author. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



INDEX. 



Preface 

Introductory 

The Skeleton 

Proportions of Heights 

Proportions of Widths 

Combination of Heights and Widths 

Proportions of the Body 

Mapping 

Foundation Sack Coat by Proportions 

Foundation Draft by Shoulder Measure Method. 

S. B. Sack Coat by Proportions 

S. B. Sack Coat by Proportions 

D. B. Sack Coat 

D. B. Sack Coat 

Dinner Coats 

S. B. Sack, Even Side Seams 

Foundation Frock Coat 

S. B. Frock. Foundation Draft by Proportions. . 

Two Button Frock 

One Button Frock. Bell Skirt 

D. B. Frock 

Full Dress Coat by Proportions 

Full Dress Coat by Proportions 

Sack Overcoat 

Street Covert Coat 

S. B. Overcoat 

Box Overcoat 

D. B. Overcoat 

Full Box Overcoat 

S. B. Newmarket Overcoat 

S. B. Paletot 

Raglan 



Raglan, Three Seam Sleeve 

Inverness Coat 

Combination Cape Method 

S. B. Sack, For Corpulent Figure 

D. B. Frock, For Corpulent Figure 

S. B. Frock, For Corpulent Figure 

Full Dress Coat, For Corpulent Figure 

Sack Overcoat, For Corpulent Figure 

Fur Lined Overcoat, For Corpulent Figure 

Box Overcoat for Comparison With Wide & Narrow Shoulder Variation 



Page. 




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9 


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13 


14, 


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17 


18, 


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46, 


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48, 


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51 


52, 


53 


54, 


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56, 


57 


58, 


59 


60, 


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62, 


63 


64, 


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66, 


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68, 


69 


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78, 


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84, 


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86, 


87 



88, 89 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



INDEX. —CONTINUED. 

Page. 

External Anatomy ^' 

Sloping and Square Shoulders J -' JO 

Mapping bv Degrees of Deformation 94, J J 

Attitudes ! 100,101 

Front and Back Depths 102 ' 103 

Attitudes 104 ' 105 

Large and Small Blades 106 - l0/ 

Forward and Backward Attitudes 108 - 109 

Backward and Forward Attitudes 110 > in 

Large and Small Waist 112. 113 

Corpulent Form 114 - 115 

Small Waisted Form 116 ' 117 

One Shoulder Low ■ 118 ' 119 

Short Measures 12 0> 121 

How to Draft by Short Measures 12 \ 131 

Waist Suppression 132 - 133 

Scye and Neck Proportions 134, 135 

Compound Mixed Proportions 136 - 137 

. 1 3Q 1 W 

Mixed Proportions 1J0 - 10J 

Mixed Proportions, Neck Gorge 14 °- 141 

Mixed Proportions. Drapery 142 ' 14 ° 

Sleeves — Introductory 

Sleeves by the Arm Scye 

Sleeve for Normal Figure 146 

Sleeve for Corpulent Figure 

Variations in Sleeve Top 

The Pitch of the Sleeve 15 ° 

S. B. No Collar Vest ^ 2 ' 1S3 

D. B. Lapel Vest 154 ' 155 

D. B. No Collar Vest 156, 157 

S. B. Full Dress Vest 158 - 159 

D. P.. Full Dress Vest 16 °- 161 

S. B. No Collar Vest for Corpulent Figure 162, 163 

S. B. Dress Vest for Corpulent Figure 164, 165 

Variations in Vests ir,fi ' 169 

Stone's Reliable Block Patterns 170, 171 

The Charles J. Stone Co. Cutting School 172 

Chicago College of Garment Cutting 173 

Publications 

The Practical Cutter and Tailor 175 



Stone's . Idvanced Superlative 
Coat and 1 'est System 



PREFACE 




HE present work is the result of experiment and observation extending over the pas! forty 
years, during which the evolution of cutting has gone on step by Step, adding to itself 
the ripe results of art and science, and has developed at last to where it perfectly meets 
the needs of the master of the cutting board. 

Four large editions of the author's work, Stone's Superlative Coat and Vest System, 
have been printed, and now Stone's Advanced Superlative Coat and Vest System is 
presented as the elaborated result of the evolution of this system in practice. The develop- 
ment of the art and science of cutting has gone on just as development in other arts and sciences has gone on, 
until, finally, it represents the highest possible skill and wisdom which time and conditions can produce. 
Cutters whose experience extends over and includes many years of practical work and careful thought 
and observation, can remember that, of the many systems of cutting offered to the student and inquirer, few 
could lay claim to consistency and thoroughness, and that efforts to apply many of them led only to 
"confusion worse confounded". Such was the condition of the theory and practice of cutting when the 
author of this work first presented the system which is now known and appreciated wherever the cutter is a 
power and wherever high class merchant tailoring prevails. 

When the proportions of the human form were fixed upon by the author of the Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System as the basis of the art and science of cutting, these had already been put forward as 
the foundation of the same by numerous authors; but none of them had succeeded in applying their theories 
exhaustively to the matter in question, and not a few of them had abandoned their foundation as soon as 
they began the practical application of it in drafts and explanations. Lack of thoroughness, an insufficiency 
of comprehension, resulted in error after error making its appearance in the practical application of ideas 
and principles; and only when Chas. J. Stone came forward with his solidly founded system did cutting 
take on a truly scientific aspect, and method and theory work in perfect unison. 

Now that years have passed, and numerous editions of this truly master work have been called for and 
exhausted, a thorough revision of the labor of years has resulted in the Advanced Superlative Coat and 
Vest System herewith presented. It will be seen that no departures have been made from former editions 
of the same work, and that nothing has been eliminated or left out, but such important additions have bsen 
made as give the work an encyclopedian character, and bring it up to the requirements and exigencies 
of a developing calling and progressive craft. The evolution of cutting has not brought the author's 
theories into question; they stand firmly, a monument of demonstration; only time has furnished forth addi- 
tional evidence and offered increased means to make the work the one indispensable guide to the theory and 
practice of the cutting board. 

It is important in connection with these matters to call attention to the fact that the present work, 
though the first written, is based upon another foundation book, the life work of the author, Stone's Anatom- 
ical Divisions of the Human Form. This great work, published a year ago, at once took a place as the 
leading work, establishing the foundation of system building, in fact the only one of its kind demonstrating 
the art and science of cutting upon the proportions of the human form in relation to gro vth and stature from 
childhood to old age. It is desirable that the possessor of Stone's Advanced Superlative Coat and VeSt 
System should also make himself acquainted with the book upon which the scientific theories of cutting 
have been founded, and for that reason the two works have been uniformly printed and bound, so that they 
constitute substantially one complete work. 

In this thorough manner, then, the present work has been thought out and developed. All the errors 
which disfigured the works of the older and less scientific writers on the subject have been traced to their 
causes and eliminated. The theories of cutting have been elaborated and based upon a consistent and 
luminous conception of foundations; the human figure has been studied exhaustively at all ages in relation 
to proportions, and what is of equal importance, disproportions; the cutting of coats and vests has been 
reduced to an exact science; art has been given its proper place in the economy of cutting; and last, though 
of great importance, the whole matter has been presented in such a way that careful study on the part of a 
man of ordinary intelligence will make him master of the theory and practice of cutting. This work, then, 
is the ripe result of the author's lifetime of experience, thought, and most careful testing and trying. 

CHAS. J. STONE CO., 

Publishers. 



Stone's . Idvanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



INTRODUCTORY. 



In presenting this work to the public the author desires to call attention to certain peculiar 
features which characterize it, and that distinguish it from all other works of the kind now 
known to cutters. 

This work is the result of a search for thoroughness. It is not enough to lay before the 
student an elaborate statement and demonstration of results ; in these days of scientific investi- 
gation the man who wants to know asks a thousand questions and thinks of as many more ; ques- 
tions as to what is basic to the ideas which he is asked to accept. He wants to get beneath the 
surface and find what is there. These tilings are what call for thoroughness, and exhaustive 
and conclusive treatment; and the author has labored long and studiously to accomplish the 
desired result. 

Every thinking man will admit that, before erecting a structure of any kind, it is necessary, 
first, to lay out the plans and make the specifications, and then dig in deep, and put down a solid 
foundation upon which to build. I hear some cutters exclaim. "What has this to do with gar- 
ment cutting?" True, the building of clothes is quite a different proposition from the building 
of houses; and yet to the thinking cutter, to the man who wants to educate and elevate him- 
self in his chosen profession, that of designing and cutting clothing for the human form, there 
must be something required besides a mere method of cutting. We must have a system 
for everything that we do, whether it he the building of houses or clothing; and that system 
must be built upon a solid foundation. We must have a basis to work upon. 

The cutter must first study the subject for which he is to design and cut the garment; for 
he must take the measurements and analyze them before he proceeds to lay the patterns out. and 
unite the specifications for the building of garments for all the many various shapes and forms 
that are presented to him in his daily practice. 'A mere system of divisions, with sweeps, curves 
and angles for all the different points, is simply guesswork unless it is based upon a solid foun- 
dation, and the cutter knows win- this, that, and the other point should he one-eighth, one-fourth, 
or one-third from the base line or starting point. 

The true divisions to be used in mapping out the draft of a garment must be based upon 
the divisions of the human form ; therefore, the author of this work has divided the human form 
into sections or divisions of height and width, as explained in plates 2, 3. 4 and 5; and these 
divisions are used in mapping out the foundation drafts. By first studying the proportions of 
the human form, the cutter has put down a foundation upon which to build. 

Next comes the application of the actual measures of the figure that the garment is to be 
cut for. The first thing to do is to analyze these measures. This is done by comparing the actual 
measures taken of the form to the mapped out proportions from the height and width of the 
client. After analyzing the measures, the cutter can see at a glance what shape the pattern must 
be to fit the form he is cutting the coat for, and also he should not forget that the attitude of 
the form must be taken into consideration; for, while the upper portion of the coat, above the 
breast line, can be correctly adjusted by actual measures, the lower portion, below the breast 
line, must be regulated according to the attitude of the figure. Therefore, to be wholly convers- 
ant with the working of this system, the student must first stud}' each component part of it, 
and learn how to draft by proportions, mixed proportions, and by actual measures, as well as 
from attitude. 

It is not enough that we know how to "do it," hut we must know the reason why we do it: 
it is because of this that I have gone into so manv different methods of making the needed 
changes for variations and combinations of mixed, compound, and complex proportions, and 
drapery. 

As to what the student finds here, it may be said that it is presented in such a way, and 
with such explanatory and illustrative matter, that with care and attention it can be quickly 
mastered. Going to the bottom of things is the only way to understand them ; and men soon 
discover that the method which goes deepest, and penetrates farthest, is the only method of 
value in making things clear. The systematic manner in which all is presented, each part in its 
proper place, and with its own individual explanations accompanying it, makes this work a plain 
and luminous text book for students of cutting. 

Let the student take this work up with the determination to master it, and he will find day 
by day that he is attaining ability as a designer and cutter, and is founding his work upon a 
solid rock of demonstration and proof, and thus is becoming a power. 

CHAS. J. STONE. 



10 



Stone'.': . Idvanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE I. 



ihe Skeleton. 



Whatever excuse may be made for the teachers of gar- 
ment cutting who do not teach anatomy, there can be 
none offered for their not learning it. (Extract from 
"Elements of Art," by M. A. Shee, R. A.) 

The height, breadth and depth of the outward form of 
man depend upon the general character and proportions 
of the bony framework of the body. From the skull to 
the bones of the feet, the human skeleton is constructed 
for the erect position. The upper limbs are especially 
attached to the trunk by the shoulder girdle, which is in- 
complete so as to give freedom for tact and prehension ; 
which is incomplete so as to enable them to support the 
trunk. It should be observed that the separate parts of 
both the upper and lower limbs, the arm, forearm and 
hand in one, and the thigh, leg and foot in the other, 
diminish in length in regular order from the trunk to the 
fingers and toes. 

The thorax is wider transversely than it is deep, which 
allows the weight of the trunk to be distributed to the 
two lower limbs to advantage when in the erect position. 

The vertebral column presents compensating curva- 
tures, which admit of elasticity and insure security in the 
various movements ; and the pelvis is broad and strong, 
serving as a basis for the whole trunk, whatever direction 
the weight is transmitted. The upper limbs are not as 
long as the lower. Besides the incompleteness of the 
shoulder-girdle, the fact that the upper limbs are only 
connected by the collar bones to the sternum, and that the 
shoulder joint is capable of a range of motion in all 
directions, indicate that they are not designed for sup- 
port. The interdependence of the shoulder, elbow and 
wrist joints, which enable the hand to be pronated or sus- 
pended, adapts the upper limb to reach any part of the 
body. The joints of the upper limb all bend in the same 
direction. The wrist is in a line with the forearm, and 
the bones of the fingers and thumb are especially arranged 
for opposing one another ; useful for the most delicate 
touch, as well as for grasping objects strongly. 

In the full grown man the lower limbs are longer 
than the upper. The thighs and legs are long 
in proportion to the body. The joints are adapted 
so that they bend in opposite directions alter- 
nately, as is necessary for progression. The feet are 
relatively large and at right angles to the legs, so that 



they can be placed on the ground in order to receive the 
weight of the body. The great toe is not opposable to 
the other toes, as for purpose of grasping, but is charac- 
teristically large and strong, to assist in steadying the 
weight. 

Skeleton Examination — Names of Different Bones. 
To facilitate still further the study of the skeleton, or 
at least its careful examination, I present herewith a list 
of bones treated of in the foregoing, with their clinical 
and more familiar names. The student will find this list 
of great use in frequently referring to the construction 
of the framework of the body, and may by this means 
very soon familiarize himself with it 
A. Os frontis — the frontal bone. 

A. The protuberances formed by the frontal sinuses. 

B. Os parietale. 

C. Os temporium. 

D. Ossa maxillaria superiora — bones of the upper jaw. 

E. Maxilla inferior — the lower jaw. 

F. The seven vertebra; of the neck. 

G. The vertebral column. 

H. The seven true and five false ribs. 

I. Os sacrum. 

K. Os ilium. 

L. Os pubis. 

M. Os ischium. 

N. Sternum — breast bone. 

O. Clavicula — collar bone. 

P. Scapula — shoulder blade. 

Q. Humerus or brachium — upper arm bone. 

R. Radius. 

S. Ulna. 

T. Bones of the carpus — wrist bones. 

V. Bones of the metacarpus. 

U. Bones of the fingers. 

W. Femur — thigh bone. 

WW. The patella. 

X. Tibia. 

Y. Fibula. 

Z. Bone of the tarsus. 

AA. Bones of the metatarsus. 

BB. Bones of the toes. 

CC. Os salcis, or bone of the heel. 

DD. Trochanter major. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J 'est System 



11 



PLATE I. 




12 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE II. 



Proportions — Height. 



The human form may be divided into eight sections, 
each section being the distance from the top of the head 
to the bottom of the chin. These eight parts may be sub- 
divided into eighths, which gives us a figure subdivided 
into 64 parts, or units. The 64 units of the human form 
are used by all anatomists, but there are differences that 
ought to be taken note of. According to Prof. Charles 
Rochet, the proper divisions are made with the figure ly- 
ing on its back, the toes extended, or on tiptoe if standing 
This is correct and useful in the plastic arts, but cannot 
be applied in the cutting of clothing. What tailors require 
is the division of the parts of the human body which are 
covered with clothes. Prof. Charles H. Weigall's method 
of measuring from the crown of the head to the heel is 
better, although this measurement does not always con- 
tain eight times the length of the face or head. This dis- 
tance can be divided into eight equal parts, however, as 
will be seen in the accompanying diagram. To these 
height divisions I have added crosswise or width divis- 
ions and then proceeded to apply the plan thus com- 
pleted to the art of cutting garments. 

The proportionate height of a man is 5 feet 4 inches, 
or 64 inches, measuring 36 breast. Put the average 
height, as we find it in everyday practice, is 5 feet 7 to 8 
inches. Throughout this system a figure 5 feet 8 inches 
in height is taken as a standard. 

The different lengths, as shown in Plate 2, are as fol- 
lows : 



From the crown of the head to the bottom of the 
chin, as 1 on diagram, is one-eighth of the en- 
tire height l /& 

From the bottom of the chin to the top of the shoul- 
ders, as from 1 to 2 on diagram, is 3-64 of the 
entire height, and to the bottom of the sternum, 
as from 1 to 3 is one-eighth % 

From the bottom of the sternum to just above the 
navel and to the hollow of waist, as from 3 to 4 
on diagram, is one-eighth % 

From the hollow of the waist, just above the navel, 
to the commencement of the lower limbs, as 
from 4 to 5 on diagram, is one-eighth % 

From commencement of the lower limbs to the mid- 
dle of the thigh, as from 5 to 7, is one-eighth % 

From the middle of the thigh to the bottom of the 

knee, as from 7 to 8 on diagram, is one-eighth, ]4, 

From the bottom of the knee to the bottom of the 

calf, as from 8 to 9 on diagram, is one-eighth % 

From the bottom of the calf to the small of the ankle, 

as from 9 to 10 on diagram, is one-sixteenth 1-16 

From the small of the ankle to the sole of the foot, 

as from 10 to 11 on diagram, is one-sixteenth 1-16 

Total 8-8 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



13 



PLATE II. 




Alpha Paramount Cut 101 
Copyrighted, i8q2, by C/ias. /. Stone 



14 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Test System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE III. 



Proportions — Widths. 



We have seen how the human form is divided in 
heights. In order that this theory of proportions may be 
applied in the art of cutting it must be divided into 
widths. How I can accomplish this will be seen in Plate 
3. Here the body is divided into 16 equal parts, six parts 
for the front, six parts for the back, and two parts for 
each arm. Each of these divisions may be sub-divided 
into four parts, making a total of 64 units, as in height 
divisions ; but such small divisions are not necessary for 
our purpose, so we employ 1-16 parts. 

It will be seen that all proportionate lengths are taken 
from the height of the body, and all the proportionate 
widths are taken from the breast measure. The one is 
not in any way conflicting with the other, but rather the 
two form a harmonious whole. A man is in proportion 
when all the different lengths of the body are in propor- 
tion to the heights, and all the different widths are in 
proportion to the breast measurement. The proportion 
is not between the height and the breast measure, as some 
cutters seem to think. Thus, a man may be 5 feet 4 inches 
tall and measure 36 breast, or 6 feet 4 inches tall and 
measure 36 breast, and still be in proportion. Or 
a man may be 5 feet 8 inches in height and 36 breast, or 
the same height and 46 breast, and be in proportion. 

Prof. Wiegall enumerates the widths of the different 
parts of the body as follows : 

The width of the neck across is half a head. 

The width to the setting on the shoulders is one-head 
and one half. 



The width across the shoulders is two heads. This 
will also form an equilateral triangle with the navel. 

Under the arm-pits it is one head and a half. 

Across the head, one head and a quarter. 

The width of the top of the thigh is three-fourths of 
a head. 

Across the top of the knee is a half head. 

Across the bottom of the knee is also half a head. 

Across the calf is five-eighths of a head. 

It will suit our purpose to divide the different parts of 
the body as follows : 

Across the widest part of the head 

above the ears 3 parts 

Across the neck 2 parts 

Across the shoulders, including arms. 8 parts 

Across the back 6 parts 

Across the waist 4 l / 2 parts 

Across the hips 6% parts 

Across the middle of the thigh 3 parts 

Across the top of the knee 2 parts 

Across the bottom of the knee 2 parts 

Across the calf 2>4 parts 

Across the small of the ankle Imparts 

The proportionate widths of this average man (5 feet 
8 inches in height, 36-inch breast ) are as follows : 

Around the bare neck \3 l / 2 inches 

Around the shoulders over the arms, 41 inches 

Around the breast 36 inches 

Around the waist 32 inches 

Around the seat 37 inches 



Stone's Advanced Superlativt 
Coat and Vest System 



15 



PLATE III. 




Alpha Paramount Cut 102 
Copyrighted, 1S92, by Chas. J. Stone. 



16 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
- Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE IV. 



Combination of Heights and Widths. 



The proportionate height dimensions of the human 
form were explained in the preceding pages. Before con- 
sidering their application in garment cutting, the division 
of the body into lengths and widths must be explained. 

The Lengths of the Body. 

In Plate 4 the distance from A to C is commonly 
known to cutters as the depth of scye. Anatomically it 
is called the dorsal length. This distance from A to B, 
the slope of the shoulder, is the minor dorsal length, and 
the distance from B to C is the major dorsal length. 

The minor dorsal length, measuring three units, takes 
its proportions from height, and the major dorsal length, 
measuring five units, takes its proportions from width or 
breast measure. The combination of the minor and ma- 
jor dorsal lengths gives the depth of scye, as will be fur- 
ther explained in Plate 5. The depth of scye cannot 
otherwise be properly determined, because the arm de- 
velopment is always in accordance with the breast, 
while the breast measurement is not always — is very sel- 
dom, indeed — in accordance with the height. 

The natural waist length for all normal figures will be 
one-fourth of the entire length, plus ]A inch for incline at 
neck and waist. For an erect figure it will be less, and 
for a stooped figure it will be more than one-fourth of 
height. The fashionable waist length is always regu- 
lated by prevailing style. The distance from the waist 



line to the largest part of the seat is one-eighth of 
height, as from D to F on Plate IV. 

The Widths of the Body. 

The body is divided in width into sixteen equal parts, 
as shown in the dagram. From X to 8 is half of the coat ; 
therefore it is divided into eighths on the square, and is 
so used in drafting. The width of the back is therefore 
three-eighths, the arm scye two-eighths, and the front 
three-eighths. From K to L is one-eighth, giving the 
round of the front part ; from L to M is one-eighth, be- 
ing the width of the neck. A line is drawn from L to N, 
giving the slope of the shoulder, as shown in the diagram, 
the entire width of the neck being two-eighths. We there- 
fore make the width of the back at the top from O to P, 
one-eighth in divisions on the square, or one-sixteenth of 
the entire width of the breast. O is the top of the shoul- 
der. Both shoulder seams should be shaped from O up 
to the neck. 

The waist in a normal figure is 4 inches less than the 
breast. We therefore take out our suppress 1 inch at 
both H and J. 

In this manner I use the combination of heights and 
widths. It matters not what height my client is, nor 
what size breast he measures, as long as all the lengths 
.ire in proportion to the height, and all the different width 
sections are in proportion to the breast measure, we have 
the proportionate figure. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



PLATE IV. 



17 




Copyrighted, rSgs, by C/ias. /. Stone 



Alpha Paramount Cut 103 



18 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 

Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE V. 



PROPORTIONS OF THE BODY. 



A proportionate figure is one in which all the differ- 
ent measurements, such as length of legs and arms, 
height of neck and length of waist, together with all 
other lengths of the body are in proportion to the height 
ot the figure; and when all the different widths such as 
the width of the back, blade and chest are in proportion 
to the breast measure. 

In Plate 1 we have a proportionate man. It further 
explains the matter treated of in explanation of Plate 
IV. It is here that the cutter usually meets his first 
obstacle. In attempting to locate the depth of scye from 
height he makes a mistake ; for although the bone struc- 
ture of the body takes its proportions from both height 
and width, the flesh and muscle development is not in 
proportion to the height of the frame. It is true that in 
a mature figure which measures 36 breast and 32 waist, 
5 feet 4 inches in height, the depth of scye may be ob- 
tained from the height. But the figure may measure 46 
breast, 42 waist and 5 feet 4 inches height. The arms 
are branches of the main body, always developing with 
it ; therefore, the size of the arm will take its proportion 
from width, or breast measure, and not from height. 

The size of the arm in an average figure is 1 inch less 
than l / 2 of breast measure, increasing jj inch to every 
inch of increase in breast ; but in fat men the arm scye 
will increase only 2-5 of an inch to every inch of increase 
in breast. 

In this diagram the distance from B to E is Y& of 
height. The distance from C to D is, according to my 
division of the body, 3-64 of the entire height, and from 
C to B is Yi inch for incline at the neck, making the 
distance from the top of the neck to the top of the 
shoulder 3 units and Y* inch. The increase for the in- 
cline in the neck in a normal figure 5 feet 4 inches in 
height is Y- inch. Also, there is an increase or decrease 
of 1-16 inch for every inch of increase or decrease in 
height over or under this standard size. Thus the minor 
dorsal length will be: 



For figure 5 feet 4 inches 3 l / 2 inches 

For figure 5 feet 5 inches 3 V 10 inches 

For figure 5 feet 6 inches 3jHs inches 

For figure 5 feet 7 inches 3 u / 16 inches 

For figure 5 feet 8 inches 3% inches 

For figure 5 feet 9 inches 3 a / ia inches 

For figure 5 feet 10 inches 3Y& inches 

For figure 5 feet 1 1 inches 3 '°/ 10 inches 

For figure 6 feet 4 inches 

D to F is Yi breast, the size of the arm (j/3 of scye 
measure plus Yi inch), taking its proportion from the 
breast, according to its muscular and fleshy increase and 
development. 

The distance from B to G, the natural waist, is Y °f 
height, and from G to H, to the seat, is Y& °f height. 
These proportions are taken from the height only. The 
distance from F to P is 3/2 of breast. The blade takes 
its proportions entirely from the breast, and has no con- 
nection whatever with the strap, as a great many cutters 
seem to think. It will be seen at a glance that the strap 
cannot be compared with the blade, for that it contains 
the proportions of both height and width. The distance 
from the front of the scye at J up to the top of the 
shoulder is width, and the distance from the top of the 
shoulder to the side of the neck is height, while from 
the side of the neck to the center of the back is again 
breast. So the strap measure really contains the dis- 
tance from B to K and from D to F, which is breast. 
This amount may be compared to the blade, but after 
adding the distance from B to D, which is height, we 
cannot compare strap and blade except in an average 
figure. 

The increase in size of a corpulent figure is consid- 
erably more in front than in back; therefore the di- 
visions of the back must be decreased and those of the 
front increased. This is the reason why the blade in 
large sizes is not proportionately as large as in the small 
sizes. It is in the large sizes, as a rule, that we have 
fat men. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



19 



PLATE V. 



f— ®A 




20 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and I 'est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE VI. 



MAPPING. 



Before proceeding with drafting, I will present the 
method of mapping out the coat as illustrated in Plate 1. 

As explained in the foregoing pages, the distance from 
A to B is the minor dorsal length, and from A to C al- 
lowance is made for the incline at the neck. From B 
to D is the anatomical length, and from D to E is the 
allowance for flesh development. The distance from B 
to D is the same on the bone structure in all figures with 
the same height, but the flesh development from D to E 
is according to the size of breast. 

I will now proceed to map out a draft for a figure 
whose height is 5 feet 8 inches. 
C to B is 3^4 inches, and B to E is ^3 breast. 
C to F is Yx height (17 inches). 

Note. — It may here be argued that there is also an 
incline at the actual waist line, which is true ; but it is 
also true that the natural waist length on a perpendicular 
line is a little less than % of the entire height of the 
body, because the head is that much more than y of the 
height. So the actual waist length, with allowance in- 
cluded for incline at neck and waist, will be a little more 
(about y 2 inch) than y, of the height. 
F to G is from ljX to 2 inches, according to style and 

fancy. 
Square lines C, B, E, F and G. 

E to 15 is y 2 of the breast measure, 18 inches for a 
36 breast coat. This I divide into eight parts, as pre- 
viously explained. But by using y 2 of the net breast 
measure the garment will be without seams, so the usual 
2 inches must be added for seams and ease. If 2 inches 



is added to 18 inches, half of breast measure, we will 
have 20 inches. Therefore the divisions from C to 1, 1 
to 2, 2 to 3, 3 to 4, and these sections crossways will be 
20 on eighths instead of 18 for a 36 size coat, and so on 
for all sizes as follows : 

For drafting power use for 
36 breast 20 on divisions. 
38 breast 21 on divisions. 
40 breast 22 on divisions. 
42 breast 23 on divisions. 
44 breast 24 on divisions. 
46 breast 25 on divisions. 

And so on for all sizes. The front sections from 8 to 7 
are y breast net without addition, as nothing is needed 
for seams between 8 and 7. 

7 to 6 is y breast less one seam, which really adds a 
seam at neck gorge point 13. Point 9 K is half way 
between 3 and 4, if there was nothing added at top of 
back. Point M would then fall on point B, if we use 
point K as pivot. Sweep from M to N, measure the 
distance from N to 1. and move the pivot from K to 10, 
half of this amount. By using point 10 as pivot, swing- 
ing the back around, point 1 will fall on point 13. Only 
one seam has been added to width of back from A to M. 

At first glance it may seem that two seams should be 
added to the back section instead of one seam. Still two 
seams really have been added when the back is raised up 
y, inch at point 1. The waist suppression in a normal 
figure is 4 inches less than breast, so 1 inch is suppressed 
at both 11 and 12. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and I 'est System 



21 



PLATE VI. 




22 



Stone's . Idvanced Superlative 
Coat and I 'est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE VII. 



FOUNDATION SACK COAT. 



By Proportions. 



Height, 5 feet 8 inches ; breast, 36. 

Waist 4 inches less than breast, making waist 32 and 
the seat 1 inch more than the breast, or 5 inches more 
than the waist, seat then measuring 37 inches. 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is shoulder height, 3}i inches for this height. 

B to C is 34 breast, 34 arm scye plus Yi inch. (36 arm 

scye is 17 inches.) 
A to D is 34 height plus 34 inch for incline at waist and 

neck. 
D to E is % height less ^ inch. 
E to F is 3 inches or whatever is style. 
Square out lines B, C, D, E and F. 
F to G and D to H is in 34 inch. 
Shape from B to I, H and G. 
I to K is 3^ breast plus 234 inches. 
K to J is back 34 breast net, 18 on Y% scale. 
Square down from K and up from J to Q. 



C, outside line to M is 34 breast with addition on divis- 
ion, 20 on 34 scale. 

M to N and M to O is 34 with addition from M. 

Place 20 on 34 scale at M and mark point N, end of 
square, and then mark 20 on 34 scale at O. 

N to Z is 34 breast. 

Square up from N and O. 

A to T is 34 breast on addition. 

Q to R is 34 breast less 34 inch. 

Draw a line from Q to B. 

R to W is 34 breast. 

Draw a line from A through W to U to V. 

Draw a line from B to N. 

Y is Y2 i ncn down from X parallel with line B N. 

to P is J4 inch. 
K to L is IK' inch. 
6 to 7 is 134 inch. 

1 to 2 is 1 inch. 

3 to 4 is 2Y4 inches. 

See Diagram VIII for further foundation. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J 'est System 



23 



PLATE VII. 




24 



Stone's . Idvanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE VIII. 



FOUNDATION DRAFT. 



The following diagram is the foundation draft apply- 
ing shoulder measures. The measures used in produc- 
ing this draft are as follows: 

Strap 12 Breast 36 

Upper Shoulder 26 Waist 32 

Lower Shoulder 25 Seat 37 

Proportion height, 5 feet 8 inches. 

Analyzing Measures. 

The client to be regular ; the upper shoulder should be 
% of the breast plus 2 inches — in this case 36 breast, 
height 5 feet 8 inches. Yi of breast is 12; twice 12 is 
24, plus 2 inches is 26 inches ; this indicates that the 
shoulders are neither sloping nor square. Next compare 
the strap to the upper shoulder, to determine stoop or 
erect. The normal strap to the upper shoulder should 
be l /2 of upper shoulder less 1 inch. 26 upper shoulder; 
y 2 of 26 equals 13, less 1 inch is 12. The strap in this 
case measures 12, so the figure is neither stoop nor erect. 
Next compare the lower shoulder to the breast. The 
lower shoulder should be % of the breast, less 1 inch. 
Breast 36; 3/3 of breast is 12; % equals 24, plus 1 inch 
equals 25. The measure taken is 25, so the figure is 
neither large nor small blades. 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is l /i of the tipper shoulder (8% inches). 

Take half of upper shoulder measure, 13 on % scale of 

the square ; this way saves unnecessary figuring. 
B to C is 1 inch high. 

C to K is up Yi breast for Yz arm scye plus Y$ inch). 
A to D is Ya height, 17 inches. 
D to F is Ys height', 8>4 inches. 
F to H full length of coat, 29 inches. 
Square out lines K, C, D, F and H. 
C to J is Ya inch. 
D to E is 5^ inch. 
H to I is J4 inch. 
Shape from K to E, to G, to I. 



J to L is J4 breast plus 2Y\ inches. 

L to M is back Y& breast net (18 on Y& scale). 

Square down from L and up from M to Q. 

C to N is Yi °f lower shoulder measure (25 on y 2 scale) 

or 12^4 inches. 
N to O is back Ya breast, with addition, (20 on Ya scale). 
P is half-way between N and O. In a proportionate 

size Y> breast with addition. 
Square up from N and O. 
A to W is Y> breast net (18 on Y> scale). 
A to V is Ya inch ; W to X is Ya inch. 
Y to Z is J4 inch. 
Draw a line from X to Z. 
Draw a line from K to N. 
Draw a line y 2 inch down parallel as 1 and 2. 
Square down from O. 

I to 3 is Yz inch. 10 is J^ inch in. 
Draw a line from 3 to 10 to 12. 

3 to 4 is 1 inch ; 4 to 5 is Ya inch for seam. 
to R is back % breast net, less Ya inch. 
R to S strap point is 1 inch down, because the strap 

should be 1 inch less than V 2 of upper shoulder. 
Draw a line from S to K. 
Draw a line from S to Y. 
S to T is Y& inch less than from X to Z. 
N to V is up Y(> breast net. 
S to 6 is Ya breast, less y 2 inch. 
Draw a line from 9 through 6, establishing points 7 

and 8. 
L to 16 is \y 2 inches; 17 to 18 is \ l i inch. 
Draw a line from 16 through 22, 23 and 18. 

II is 1 inch in from 10. 
12 to 13 is 2% inches. 

Draw a line from 4 to 11 to 13. 

Measure the distance from 3 to 14 and make the distance 

from 4 to 15 the same. 
Sweep from 15 by S to 19; 19 to 20 is 1 inch. 
Draw a line from 15 through 20. 
N to 25 is pocket. 17 on % scale ; 23 is opposite 25. 
24 is Ya breast, less 1 inch, from 20. 
To complete, shape as desired. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and 1 'est System 



25 



PLATE VIII. 




26 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE IX. 



FOUR BUTTON SACK. 



The draft is produced by proportions from the follow- 
ing measurements : 

Natural waist length. . 17 Breast 38 

Fash, waist length 18>< Waist 34 

Full length of coat. . .31 Seat 39 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 2>y inches. 

B to C is 5/3 breast. 

A to D is natural waist length, to E fashionable waist 

length, and to G full length of coat. 
D to F is one-half of natural waist length. 
Square lines B, C, D, E, F and G. 
D to 9 and E to 10 is 5/ & , and G to 26 is y inch. 
K to II is 1 inch more than ]A breast. 
H to I and II to J is I4 inch more than % breast. 
J to T is y 2 inch and U to 5 is y 2 inch. 
Draw a line from B to I. 

1 to 2 is % inch. 

3 to 4 is 1 inch, ami X to Y is 2^4 inches. 

2 to 6 is the same as 1 to 5. 



A to R is y± inch more than % breast. 

R to S is % inch. 

O to 11 is y 2 inch. 

Draw a line from S to 11. 

K to L is 234 inches more than y 2 breast. 

L to M is l / s breast. 

Square up from M to N. 

N to O is y inch less than l /% breast. 

to P is y 2 inch. 

Draw a line from P to Q. 

P to 12 is y s inch less than S to 11. 

N to 20 is % breast. 

13 to 14 is 3 inches. 

L to 15 and Z to 16 is \)/ 2 inch. 

Sweep from 6 for point 7, using shoulder point P a« 

pivot. 
7 to 8 is y inch. 

1 to 18 is y inch more than y of waist length. 

The collar is drafted by drawing a line from first service 
button through point 20 to 21. 

21 to 22 is y inch. 

22 to 23 is iy s inch, and 22 to 25 is 1^ inch. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



27 



PLATE IX. 




28 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and I 'est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE X. 



THREE BUTTON SACK. 



The draft is produced by proportions from the follow- 
ing measurements : 

Natural waist length. 17 Breast 38 

Fashionable length 1834 Waist 34 

Full length of coat 31 Seat 39 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

x\ to B is 3J4 inches. 

B to C is l /i breast. 

A to D is natural waist length, to E fashionable waist 

length and to G full length of coat. 
D to F is y 2 of natural waist length. 
Square lines B, C, D, E, F and G. 
D to 9 and E to 10 is y% and G to 7 is 34 inch. 
K to H is 1 inch more than l / 2 breast. 
H to I and H to J is J4 inch more than }$ breast. 
J to T is yi inch and U to V is 34 inch. 
Draw a line from B to I. 

1 to 2 is 34, 3 to 4 is 1 inch, and X to Y is 2% inches. 

2 to 6 is the same as 1 to 5. 

A to R is 34 inch more than J /$ breast, and R to S is % 
inch. 



Q to 11 is ]/ 2 inch. Draw a line from S to 11. 
S to W is y> inch. Shape shoulder from W to 11. 
K to L is 2"4 inches more than 34 breast. 
L to M is y$ breast. Square up from M to N. 
N to O is 34 inch less than y% breast. 

to P is y> inch. Draw a line from P to O. 
P to 12 is }i inch less than S to 11. 

P to V is J/' inch, or the same amount that has been 
added to back from S to W. 

Note. — This method of cutting a wider back at neck 
and a shorter front shoulder, produces a cleaner fitting 
shoulder in the coat. 
N to 20 is % breast. 
13 to 14 is 3 inches. 
L to IS and 17 to 16 is I3/ inch. 
Sweep from 6 for point 18. using point P as pivot. 
18 to 19 is y inch. 

1 to 25 is Y\ inch more than Yi of waist length. 

The collar is drafted by drawing a line from first service 
button through point 20 to 21. 

21 to 22 is yk inch. 

22 to 23 is 134 inch, and 21 to 25 is \y% inch. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



29 



PLATE X. 




30 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J 'est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XI. 



DOUBLE BREASTED SACK. 

/^VX opposite page will be found the draft of a Double P to L is ^ breast. 

^ Breasted Two Button Sack Coat. The lapels are of M to N is y inch less than % breast. 

moderate size, and the corners are well rounded. There A to P is J / 2 inch more than % breast. 

are four outside patch pockets. The draft is made in P to O is ?•« inch. 

the following manner, from the measures of an average O to R is ^g inch. 

figure, which are as follows : N to S is ^4 inch. 

1 '""east 38 Natural waist length . 17 Draw a line from S to B and S to R. 

Waist 34 Fash, waist length. ...18^ S to T is ^ inch less than to R. 

Seat 39 Full length of coat. . .32^ The dotted line from Q to R and S to T, will draft an 

to draft. ordinary shoulder, but to produce a clean shoulder, 

Square out and down from A. without very much stretching, add y inch from to 

A to B is Zy A inches. IJ n the back, and take off the same amount from S 

B to C is ^ breast. to V on the forepart. 

A to B is natural waist length ; to E, fashionable waist M to 30 is l / 2 inch more than % breast. 

length; to F, prominent part of seat, and to G, full 21 to 20 is y s inch. 

length of coat. 30 to 22 is 2 inches. 

Square lines B, C, D, E, F and G. W to 15 is iy 2 inches. 

D to 6 and E to 7 is y inch. 16 to 17 is 3 inches. 

G to 9 is y 2 inch. 14 to 18 is 2y inches. 

C to H is 1 inch more than K breast. Sweep from 12 by point S, for point 13. 

H to I and H to J is % inch more than % breast. 13 to 14 is -}4 inch. 

Y to 3 and Y to 4 is ^ inch. The collar is drafted by drawing a break line from the 
Z to 10 is y inch. top service button through point 21 to 23. 

X to 11 is 3y 2 inches. 23 to 24 is y 2 inch. 

1 to 2 is 1 inch. 24 to 25 is V/ s inch. 

5 to K is 2 T j inches more than y 2 breast. 25 to 26 is iy inch. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 

Coat and Vest System 



31 



PLATE XI. 




32 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J 'est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XII. 



TWO BUTTON DOUBLE BREASTED SACK. 



On the opposite page we herewith present the draft of 
a two-button double breasted Sack. The draft is made 
by proportions from the following measures : 

Length of waist 17 Breast 38 

Full length of coat 3V/ 2 Waist 33 

Seat 39 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3*4 inches. 

B to C is Vi breast. 

A to D is natural waist length and to F full length of 

coat. 
D to E is 8y 2 inches, or half of natural waist length. 
Square lines B, C, D, E and F. 
D to 14 and E to 15 is )A inch. 
C to G is one inch more than half breast. G to I is l /\ 

inch more than %, and G to H is 24 inch more than 

Y% breast. 
A to K is Y(, and K to L J4 inch. 



J to R is 1 inch. 

I to 1 is 34 inch more than 1-12. 

1 to 2 is l /i inch. 
U to V is 3 inches. 

2 to Y is the same as 1 to 23. 

13 to M is 2'4 inches more than half of breast measure. 

M to N is ]/ & breast. 

O to P is J4 inch less than y breast. 

P to Q is y 2 and J to R is y 2 inch. 

Q to 4 is % inch less than L to 3. 

o to 5 is y. 

5 to 6 is y 2 inch. 

6 to 7 is 2^4 inches. 

M to 18 is 3J4 and W to 19 is 3^4 inches. 
X to 20 is 3. and 17 to 21 is 2J4 inches. 
Sweep from Y for Z, using shoulder point as pivot. 
Z to 17 is ^4 inch. 

H to 22 is 24 inch more than % of waist length. 
The width of lapel at notch is 2^4 and the collar is 1^4 
inches. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



33 



PLATE XII. 




34 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J 7 est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XIII. 



DINNER COAT. 



The draft is made by the proportionate method for a 
figure measuring 5 feet 8 inches in height from the fol- 
lowing measures : 

Waist length \7]A Breast 38 

Full length 3 1 Waist 34 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is Zy 2 . 

I! to C is 34 breast. 

A to D is natural waist length and to F full length of 

coat. D to E is ]A natural waist length. 
Square lines B, C, D, E and F. 
D to 7 is 5s and E to X is 34 inch. 
C to G is 34 inch more than y 2 breast — no addition. 
G to H and G to R is 34 breast. 

6 to J is 1^4 inches more than 34 of breast measure. 
J to K is 34 inch ' css than ' i breast. 
Square up from K to L. 
L to N is y 2 inch. 
L to M is y 6 breast. 
M to 12 is Yi inch more than 34 breast. 
12 tn 11 is 1 3^2 inches. 
12 to 13 is \y inches. 



to 25 is y 2 inch. 

Draw a line from N to 25. 

N to 10 is y$ inch less than to 9. 

A to P is y, breast. 

I' to Q is y & inch. 

to 9 is y inch. 

R to 1 is 1-12 breast. 

1 to 2 is 34 inch. 
R to I is % inch. 
T to Y is 34 inch. 

Y to W is 3y inches. 

2 to 3 is the same as 1 to V. 

Sweep from 3 for point 5, using shoulder point N as 

pivot. 
LI to 16 is 34 inch. 

S to 15 is \y 2 and J to 14 is L)4 inches. 
The width of lapel at notch is l-?4 and the collar 1-J4 

inches. 

THE COLLAR. 

Draw the break line from end of roll at 18, through 

point 12 to 19. 
19 to 20 is y 2 inch. 20 to 21 is 1 inch. 
The turn over of collar is \y% inches, or to style and 

fancv. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Test System 



35 



PLATE XIII. 




36 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XIV. 



SINGLE BREASTED TWO BUTTON SACK. 



By Proportion. 



The draft is produced by the proportionate method 
from the following measurements, for a figure measur- 
ing in height 5 feet 8 inches: 

Breast 38 

Waist 34 

Hip 39 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is Zy 2 inches. 

B to C is Yz breast. 

A to D is 17*4 inches, being J4 of height plus y 2 inch. 

D to E is 8% inches, being y% height plus y inch. , 

E to F is 4*4 inches, making the entire length of coat 31 
inches. 

Square lines B, C, D. E and F. 

D to 26 is y inch. 

E to X y% and F to 27 l / 2 inch. 

Shape from B to 25, 26 and X to 27. 

C to G is 1 inch more than l / 2 breast. 

G to I and G to H is y breast. 

H to J is y 2 inch. 

I to 1 is -)i inch. 

K to 6 is y% inch. 

A to L is % breast. 

L to M is y inch. 

1 to 2 is 1-12 breast. 

Measure width of back opposite point 12, then make 
width of back at hip line as from X to U, 34 inch more 
than width from B to K, or to style or fancy. 

U to V is 4 inches for a normal figure with the variations 
of y% inch for every inch of increase in seat, and y 
inch less for every inch decrease in seat measure. 

Draw a line through points 1 and T and from 1 to U and 
1 to V as per arrow line showing the center of the side 
seam. In shaping back take off y inch at 2, coming 
through point 1, and hollow side as from point 4 and 5, 
and coming out through point V and springing out at 
bottom point 13. y 2 inch. 



Take off from forepart at point 3, y§ inch, coming 
through point 1, 5, Y, and springing out y 2 inch at Y. 
This will make the side seam run even on both back 
and forepart. Make a notch on forepart and sidebody 
about \y 2 inches below the breast line, then in making 
put the backpart on J4 inch full to the forepart over 
to the blade. 

25 to N is 2 inches more than y 2 of breast measure. 

Square down from N to point 16, W and 14 and 15. 

N to O is 14 breast. 

Square up from O from point P. 

P to is 54 inch less than y breast. 

Q to R is l / 2 inch. 

K to 7 ami B to 8 is y inch. 

Draw a line from R to 8 and R to 7. 

Draw a line from P to N. 

R to S is y 2 less than y breast. 

Take out \)/ 2 inches V, as from 22 to 23. 

J to 10 is % breast. 

R to 9 is y inch less than M to 6. 

22 to 23 is \y 2 inches. 

22 to 24 is 2y 2 inches. 

N to 18 is \y inches. 16 to 17 is \y 2 inches. 

3 to Y is the same as 2 to 13. 

Sweep from Y to point 14, using shoulder point R as 

pivot. 
14 to 15 is 1 54 inches. 
Draw a line from Y to point 15 for run of bottom of 

coat. 
J to 21 is J4 hich more than 2 /s, waist length. 
K to 12 is 1-12 breast. 
II to 11 is y inch. 
To draft the collar draw a line from top service button 

through point 22 up to point 19. 
19 to 20 is y inch. 
Draw crease line of lapel from 20 through 22 to 17. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 

Coat and Vest System 



37 



PLATE XIV. 




15-1^1 Z 



38 



Stone's . Idvanced Superlative 
Coat and Test System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XV. 



FOUNDATION FROCK COAT. 



The foundation draft of a single breasted Frock coat 
by proportions. Height 5 feet 8 inches. 

Breast, 36. Waist, 32. Seat, 37. 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3Y\ inches. 

B to C is Yi breast. 

A to D is natural waist length, ' "i inch more than Ya 

height ( 17*/> inches). 
D to E is fashionable waist length, l l /> inches. 
Square out lines B, C, D and E. 
E to F and D to G is Ys inch. 
Shape from 1! II to G, and to F. 
H to J is Y* breast and 2 "4 inches. 
I to K is back, % breast net. 
C to L is Y? breast, with addition, 20 on >4 scale. 
L to M is Ys breast with addition, and M to N is Y 

breast with addition, 20 on Y scale. 
Square down from L and up from M and N. Square 

down from J and up from K to P. 
A to T is Y inch more than Ys breast (20 on Ys scale). 
T to U is Ys inch. S is Y inch above A. 



V to W is Y* inch. Draw a line from 26 to E. 
Draw a line from P to B. 

P to is Ys breast, less Y inch, or one seam. 

Draw a line from Q to V. 

Q to 11 is Y breast. Draw a line from S through 11 

to 12. 
G to 25 is Ys breast net. 25 to 8 is Y inch. 

V to X is Ys breast net, same as from G to 25. 
X to Y is Y> inch. Y to Z is J/ inch. 

N to O is Y* inch. Square up to Z. 1 to 2 is Ys inch. 

4 to 5 is \% inches ; 5 to 6 is lj4 inches. 

22 to 23 is % inch. 23 to 24 is Ys inch down. 

20 to 21 is Ya mc b down. 

17 to 18 is Ys inch. 

L to 3 is ^s inch. Square line from 3 to 5 and from 3 to 6. 

Sweep from side-body point 24 to normal line 16, using 

shoulder point O as pivot. 
Draw waist seam line from 19 to 16. 
J to 13 is 1 T < inches. 14 to 15 is 1 % inches. 
Draw line from 15 to 16. 
25 is % breast up from M. 

Q to R is Ys inch less than the distance from U to W. 
Shape through construction lines (see Diagram 16 for 

complete draft). 



Stone's . Idvanced Superlative 
Coat and 1 'est System 



39 



PLATE XV. 




40 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XVI. 



SINGLE BREASTED FROCK. 



Foundation Draft by Proportionate Method. 



In cutting any style of garment, the cutter should first 
be able to make a normal foundation draft, and from 
this normal draft make the needed changes according to 
the shape of the client that the garment is intended for. 
This foundation draft is made by proportionate method 
from the following measures : 

Breast, 38. Waist, 34. Seat, 39. 
Height of figure, 5 feet 8 inches. 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3% inches. 

B to C is Yi breast. 

A to D is \7y inches, y 2 inch more than y of length. 

D to E is \]/i inches. 

E to G is 19 inches, or 2 inches more than y of height. 

D to F is Sy 2 inches (one-eighth of height). 

Square lines B, C, D, E, F and G. 

D to I is Y% inch and E to H is }& inch. 

Shape back from B, through I to II. 

Add 2 inches to half of breast measure, making it 21 in- 
stead of 19 for drafting power, and use 21 on division 
as follows : 

C to O is l / 2 and O to P and O to R is li gross ; that is, 
with addition 21 instead of the actual measure, 19; 21 
is gross and 19 net. R to Q is y inch. Square up 
lines P, O, R. and square down line O to 7. 

C to M is 2 1 2 inches more than half of breast measure. 

Square down from M through 19 to 22. 

M to N is y net. Square up to S. Draw a line from 
S to B. 



S to T is y inch less than y net. Draw a line from T 

to X. 
A to A' is % gross, and V to W is Y\ inch. 
X to Y is % inch. 
X to Z is 2 y inches. 

Draw a line from 13 to E to locate point 3. 
Z to 1 is Vj inch in and down, and 1 to 2 is one seam. 
3 to 4 is i/i inch. 

I to 5 is 2'/4 inches and 5 to 6 is y inch. 
O to 34 is y inch and 7 to 8 is 1 inch. 
8 to 9 is 1 y inches. 
P to 33 is y net. 

T to U is y inch less than W to Y. 
T to 15 is % inch less than y net. 
Draw a line from A through 15 to 17. 
M to 18 and 19 to 20 is 1>< inch. 
Side-body point 12 is •}/$ inch below waist line and point 

23 is y inch below construction line. 
Point 1 1 is y inch below 23. 
Sweep from 12 for point 22, using shoulder point T as 

pivot. 

THE SKIRT. 

21 is half way between 19 and 22. 
12 to 26 is the same as 19 to 21. 
Make a point as at 24. 

Measure forepart from 24 to 11 and side-body from 23 
to 12, and make skirt the same distance from 25 to 26. 
28 to 29 is Y% inch and 24 to 25 is y inch. 
26 to 30 is y inch, or one seam more than J to L. 
Draw a line from 20 through 22 to 31. 

22 to 31 is the same as 26 to 30. 
Shape skirt as shown in diagram. 



Stone's Advanced Superiativi 
Coat and Vest System 



41 



PLATE XVI. 




42 



Stone's . Idvanced Superlative' 
Coat and 1 'est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XVII. 



TWO BUTTON FROCK. 



The shoulders are of medium width, the waist is 
shapely and the skirts have ample hip fullness. The 
draft is made from the following measures: 

Natural waist 17 Breast 38 

Fashionable waist 18>4 Waist 34 

Full length 37y 2 Hip 39 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3l4 inches. 

B to C is Yi breast. 

A to D is natural; to E fashionable waist length, and to 

F full length of coat. 
Square lines B, C. D, E and F. 
C to (i is 1 inch more than U breast. G to I is '4 inch 

more than \ & and G to H is fi inch more than Ys 

breast. 
C to M is 2Y2 inches more than }4 of breast measure. 
M to N is Ys breast. 
O to P is Ya inch less than % breast. 
P to O is Y 4 inch. 
O to 16 is Ya l ess than Y breast. 
A to K is Yd ! K to L is Y\ inch. 
J to 14 is Y& inch- 

J to R is ], j inch. Draw a line from O to R. 
Q to 15 is Y& inch less than L to 14. 
D to 3 is y$ inch. 



3 to 4 is 2}4 ; 4 to 5 is -;4 inch. 

14 to 1 is 2y and 1 to 2 is Y i ,lcn - 

G to 28 is y 2 and 11 to 12 is 1^4 inches. 

12 tn 13 is \Ya inches. 

6 is % and 7 is Ya lnc ^ below the waist line. 

Sweep from 6 to U, using point Q as pivot. 

M to 25 and T to 26 is 1 3/ inch. 

Take out a small V in forepart, as at 9-10. 

THE SKIRT. 

V is half way betwween T and U. 

Square back from V for W. 

I 'nints 27 on 28 and on a line with front scye point H. 

4 to X is half of natural waist length. 
X to Y is '/> inch. 

.Measure forepart and side body from 27-10-9, 8, 7 to 6, 
and make skirt Y> inch less from 28 to W, and shape 
up as represented. 

W to Z is the same as E to F. 

U to 29 is the same as \V to Z. 

THE COLLAR. 

Draw a line from 24 through point 18 which is one inch 
in front of shoulder. 

19 to 20 is y inch. 

Draw a line from 20 to 23. 

20 tn 21 is 1 inch and 20 to 22 is 1 \s inch. 

The width of lapel and collar at notch is 1% inches. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



43 



PLATE XVII. 




+4 



5 /"lie's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XVIII. 



ONE BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK. 



With Large Chest and Flared Skirt. 



The height and measures which produced this pattern 
are as follows : 

Natural waist length. 17 Breast 39 

Fash, waist length 18)4 Waist 34 

Length 38 Seat 40 

Height, 5 feet 8 inches. 
to draft. 
Square lines A F and A N. 
A to B is 3% inches. B to C is Yi breast. 
A to D is the natural waist length, or one-fourth the full 

height. 
A to E is the fashionable waist length. 
A to F is the full length, or 4 inches more than double 

the natural waist length. 
Square out lines B, C, D and E. 
D to 3 is *s inch. 

3 to 4 is 2 T 4 inches. Square down from 3 and 4 to estab- 
lish 19 and 27. 
C to G is 1 inch more than Y* breast. 
G to H is Yz breast plus '4 inch and G to I is the same. 
Square down from G ; this establishes V. Square up 

from H and G ; this establishes K and 29. 
A to I is T 4 inch mure than ' >• breast, and 1 up to 2 is 

Y inch. 
(Note — 34 inch ' s always added above A for a seam). 
D to 3 is Yi inch. Draw a straight line from B to 3 ; this 

will establish 26. 

26 to L is 234 inches more than one-half full breast. L 
to 22 is 1 Vj inches, and L back to M is Ys breast. 

Square down from L to establish Y and X, and up from 
M to establish N. 

27 to 28 is 14 inch. 

Draw a straight line from A through 28, and apply the 
length to F. Square across from F and make the dis- 
tance from F to 20 one-quarter inch more than 27 is 
to 19. Add the pleat and shape the back skirt as rep- 
resented. 

K to T is ' 2 inch. T to 23 is 2J4 inches. 

Draw a straight line from 29 to E. This will establish 
30. Shape the back as represented. 

I to the back notch is l A breast. 



4 to 5 is Y\ inch. 

30 to 31 is Y& inch. 

H up to front notch is Y inch. 

23 straight down is Y inch, and straight out to 24 is also 
34 inch. I to J is 3/ inch.. Square up from J and 
draw a straight line from 23 to the front notch. 

II to U is Y, breast. 

G back to X is Ys inch. 

Y to 7 is \Y\ inches. 

7 to 6 is 1 inch. 

32 to 15 is Y& inch, and 9 to the bottom of sidebody is Y\ 
inch. Shape the sidebody as represented. 

N back to O is Y inch less than % breast, and O to P is 
Y2 inch. 

Draw straight lines from P to T and from P to B. 

P to S is Ys less than 2 is to T. 

Shape the shoulder, scye, under-arm and side-seam of 
the forepart as represented. 

Pivot at P and sweep forward from 15; this establishes 
Z. 10 is Y\ inch below 9. Draw a straight line from 
10 to Z. 

X back to 13 is Yi tne distance that Z is to 10. 

Shape the bottom as represented, pointing both V's 
toward N and removing the amount as represented. 

O to Q is Y breast, and Q to R is 3 inches. 

Shape the gorge and front as represented, making the 
crease line fall Y inch in front of P to the top button- 
hole, which is 634 inches down from the gorge. 

Z to 14 is the V amount. 

THE SKIRT. 

Draw a straight line from 15 to 14. 15 or the back of 
skirt measures the same amount that the forepart and 
sidebody does from 12 back. 

4 to 16 is one-half natural waist length, or Ys height. 

16 to 33 is \y* inches and 33 to 17 is ?s inch. Draw a 
straight line from 15 down through 33 and make the 
length 15 to 18, Y inch more than 19 to 20. 

18 to 21 is 2 inches less than 15 to 14. Shape the skirt 
as represented. The flap is 4 inches from both the 
front and back and 2J4 inches down from the waist- 
seam, and is 10 inches long. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Test System 



45 



PLATE XVIII. 




46 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and l^cst System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XIX. 



DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK. 



The draft is made by proportions from the following 
measures : 

Natural waist 17 Breast 38 

Fashionable waist 1834 Waist 34 

Full length 41 Hip 39 

Height 5 feet 8 inches. 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 
A to B is 3% inches. 
I! to C is l /i breast. 

A to D is natural and to E fashionable waist length. 
A to F is full length of coat. 
Square lines B, C, D and E. 
C to G is 1 inch more than l / 2 breast. 
G to H and G to I is 34 nlcn more than 34 breast. 
A to J is T 4 inch more than 34 breast. 
J to K is 54 inch. 
L to U is % inch. 
L to 1 is 2 34 inches. 
D to 3 is 34 inch. 
3 to 4 is 2y 4 inches. 
-4 to 5 is 24 inch. 
1 to 2 is l / 2 inch. 
G to 8 is 34 inch. 
W to 6 is 1 inch. 
6 to 7 is 1 34 inch. 

C to M is 234 inches more than 34 breast measure. 
M to N is 34 breast. 
Square up from N to O. 
Square down from M through X and draw a line from 

M to O. 
O to P is 34 inch less than 34 breast. 
P to Q is 34 inch. 



L to S is 24 inch. 

P. to R is 1 inch. 

Draw a line from Q to R and Q to S. 

Q to T is J4 inch less than K to U. 

to V is 34 breast. 
V to 13 is 1 inch. 

Sweep from Y for point Z, using shoulder point Q as 

pivot. 
Z to 12 is y 2 inch. 
9 to 10 is 54 inch. 
Take out a small V as at 11. 

To draft the lapel draw a straight line from Z to 22. 
12 to 25 is 234 inches. 
23 to 24 is 2^4 inches. 
To draft the collar Q to 26 is 24 inch. 
Draw a line from 26 to 24, locating break of lapel at 27. 

Then draw a line from 7 through Q to 28. 
28 to 30 is 1 inch. 
28 to 33 is 1?4 inch. 

THE SKIRT. 

Draw a straight line from Z to Y. 

4 to 17 is 34 of natural waist length, 8y 2 inches. 

Measure forepart and sidebody from 12 to Y and make 

skirt the same distance from 12 to 14. 
15 to 16 is 24 inch. 
17 to 18 is 234 inches. 
Draw a straight line from L through 18 and shape spring 

as represented. 
14 to 19 is the same as E to F. 
Z to 20 is the same as 14 to 19. 
H to 34 is 54 inch. 

1 to 35 is 34 breast. 
Shape as represented. 



Stone's . Idvanced Superlative 
Coat and J 'est System 



47 



PLATE XIX. 




48 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J 'est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XX. 



FULL DRESS COAT. 

By Proportions. 



The tlra ft is made from the following measures for a 
figure 5 feet 8 inches in height : 

Natural waist 17 Breast 38 

Fashionable waist 1834 Waist 34 

Full length 40 Hip 39 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3)4 inches. 

B to C is l /i breast. 

A to D is natural and to E fashionable waist length and 

to F full length of coat. 
Square lines B, C, D and E. 
C to G is 1 inch more than y> breast. 
G to I and G to H is 34 mcn more than % breast. 
C to J is 234 inches more than J / 2 of breast measure. 

J to K is 34 ' ncn l ess than 34 breast. 

Square up from K to L. 

L to N is 1 inch. 

Draw a line from N to B and N to P. 

N to X is ^s inch less than R to W. 

L to M is 34 breast. 

Draw a line from M to J. 

M to O is ji breast. 

O to 22 is 234 inches. 

A small V is taken out as shown on diagram above 

point J. 
22 to 23 ig 2 inches. 
D to 30 is V& inch. 



30 to 3 is 2 inches. 
3 to 4 is ^4 inch. 

5 to 6 is \Y\ inch. 

6 to 5 is I34 inch. 
G to Y is J4 inch. 
A to is 34 breast. 

to R is y$ inch. 
P to W is y 2 inch. 
P to 1 is 2 inches. 

1 to 2 is 3^2 inch down and forwards. 
Lengthen side-body y& as at point U and 7. 

Sweep from U for point V, using shoulder point N as 

pivot. 
Shape front of lapel from 23 through point V to 21. 

V to 21 is 2y inches. 

Point Z is half-way between 31 and V. 
Draw a line from Z to point 12. 

V to 11 is 34 the distance from V to 12. 

11 to 20 is y 4 inch. 

Measure forepart and side-body from 11 to 10, 9 to 8 
and 7 to U and make skirt the same distance from 11 
to 12. 

3 to T is 34 natural waist length. 

T to 13 is J4 inch. 

14 to 18 is 5 inches. 

Draw a line from 11 to 18 and swell out edge at 17 
34 inch. 

12 to 14 is the same as 15 to 16 and point 14 is in the 
middle of the back skirt half-way between 16 and F. 



Stone's . Idvanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



49 



PLATE XX. 




50 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXI. 



FULL DRESS COAT. 



By Proportions. 



Full Dress Coat with grown-on lapels and step. The 
front has two buttonholes below the roll of lapel two 
inches apart, and there are four buttons on the forepart 
placed 2 inches apart. The edge of the lower button is 
Ys inch from end of the buttonhole and the buttons 
spread out so that the four buttons show outside of the 
roll of lapel. The draft is made from the following 
measures for a figure 5 feet 8 inches in height : 

Natural waist 17 Breast 40 

Fashionable waist 18J4 Waist 36 

Full length 40 Hip 41 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3?4 inches. 

B to C is Yi breast. 

A to D is natural and to E fashionable waist length. 

A to H is full length of coat. 

Square lines B, C, D and E. 

D to 4 is Yi inch. 

C to M is 1 inch more than y 2 breast. 

M to N and M to O is Y inch more than Y& breast. 

C to P is 2^4 inches more than */> of breast measure. 

Square up and down from P. 

Al to T is ' s breast and T to U is Y inch less than yi 

breast. 
U to V is 1 inch. 

Draw a line from V to B and V to 40. 
A to I is Y> breast. 
I to J is Y& inch. 
40 to 20 is y s inch. 
40 to 21 is 2 inches. 



21 to 22 is y 2 inch. 
21 to 23 is Y inch. 
D to 4 is Yi inch. 

4 to 5 is 2 inches. 

5 to 7 is Y inch. 
10 to 9 is \y 2 inch. 
9 to 8 is IY4 inch. 

Lengthen side-body at point 3 and 12, Y& inch below 

waist line 6. 
Sweep from 3 for point 13, using shoulder point V as 

pivot. 
Al to Z is Y> breast. 
X to W is 1}4 inch. 
V to 35 is Yi inch less than J to 20. 
Point 15 is half-way between natural waist line E 6-11 

and point 13. 
Square back from 15 to F. 
5 to 37 is J/? of the natural waist length. 
37 to 38 is y 2 inch. 
X to point Z is 2 inches. 
Z to Y is \Y inch. 
Shape front of lapels from Y through 15 for point 14. 

13 to 14 is iy 2 inch. 

14 to 34 is Yi the distance from 14 to 28. 
Take out y 2 inch V as from 24 to 26. 

Measure forepart and side-body from 26 to 27 and 12 

to 3. 
Make skirt the same distance from 34 to 28. 
29 to 33 is the same as 14 to 24. 
33 to 32 is 1 Y inch. 
28 to 29 is one seam more than 2 to 31. 
Shape as shown on diagram. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Test System 



51 



PLATE XXI. 




52 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXII. 



SACK OVERCOATS. 

As Introduction in Drafting Overcoats. 



I herewith present the draft of medium single and 
double breasted overcoats by proportionate method from 
the following measures: 

Breast, 38. Waist, 34. Hip, 39. 
Height, 5 feet 8 inches. 

to draft. 

Square out and down from 1. 1 to A is Ya inch. 

1 to S is c 4 inch more than Y& breast. 

S to T is % inch. 

1 to B is 3^4 inches. B to C is Ys breast. 

1 to D is % of height plus }4 inch. 

D to E is 34 of height plus Y\ inch. 

1 to F is Yi of height plus 8 inches ( 42 inches for full 

length ) . 
Square lines B, C, D, E and F. 
D to H and F to G is J4 inch. 

C to L is 1 inch more than J4 breast (21 on }4 scale ). 
L to M and L to N is J 4 inch more than 's breast (21 

on eighths). 
Square up from M and up and down from N. 
U to V is Y\ inch. Draw a line as from B to M. 
Line W X is Y- inch below line B M. 
Shape back from W through N, back ^4 inch at 6 

through 3 to 2. 



C to I is 24' inches more than J 2 of breast measure. 
I to K is 34 breast. Square down from J and up from 

K, then draw a line from O to J. 
Draw a line from O to B. 
O to is Ya mcn ' ess tnan l A breast. 
O to Y is J/ more than Yd breast. 
Draw a line from O to U. 
O to R is Y% inch less than T to V. W to X is 1 inch. 

6 to 5 is -)4 inch, and 3 to 4 is 3 inches. 
Draw a line from 5 through 4 for spring. 
X to 9 is the same as YY to 2. 

Sweep from 9 for point 10, using shoulder point Q as 

pivot. 
10 to 11 is 1 inch. 
J to Z and 19 to 23 is 2 r 4 inches. 
Draw a line through points Z and 23. 
20 to 21 is 2 inches and 11 to 13 is '2 inch. 
Y to 26 is 3j/ inches. 
M to 7 is Yz of natural waist length. 

7 to 8 is 24 inch. 

(Note — If a V is wanted under the arm take out only 
Y2 inch between W and 1.) 



Stone's . Idvanced Superlative 

Coat and Vest System 



53 



PLATE XXII. 




54 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat. and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXIII. 



STREET COVERT OVERCOAT. 



Length, \7 l / 2 , 34. Breast, 38. Height, 5 feet 8 inches. 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to 1! is 3 : > 4 inches, and B to C is 34 breast. 

A to D is natural waist length, and to F is full length, 

which should be half of the wearer's height. 
D to E is 8}4 inches (half of natural waist length). 
Square lines B, C, D, E and F. 
C to I is y 2 breast. I to J is 1 inch. 
J to K and J to L is 34 breast. 
L to 5 and N to 6 is 34 inch. 
D to 2 is Y and A to 1 is 34 inch. Draw back center line 

from 1 through 2 to 3. 
3 to 4 is the same as 2 to 6. 
A to O is % and O to P is 44 inch. 
M to 12 is Y\ inch. 5 to 7 is is 1-12 breast. 
V to Z is 5 inches. Draw a line through 5 and Z. 

7 to 8 is l / 2 inch forward and down. 

8 to 19 is one seam longer than 7 to 4. 

C to G is half of breast measure, and G to H is 2^4 

inches. 
Q to R is ' 4 inch less than 34 breast. 
R to S is 1 inch. 



Draw a line from S to B and a line from S to M. 

S to 1 1 is Y% inch less than I' to 12. 

K to 9 is y, breast. 

R to T is y 2 inch less than % breast. 

Draw a line from U through T for run of neck gorge. 

Sweep from 19 to 17 by S. 17 to 18 is 1 inch. 

H to 13 and 14 to 15 is 2 1 4 inches. 

K to 20 is Yi of natural waist length. 

The last button is opposite the lower side-pocket open- 
ing and the five buttonholes on the front are equally 
divided. 

The collar is drafted by drawing a line from 13 to R, 
which line will locate the break of lapel, as at 26. Then 
draw a line from 26 through shoulder point S to 21 for 
break of collar. 
21 to 11 is 14 and 21 to li is \}i inches. The width of 

lapel and collar at notch is 1^4 inches. 

The center of back is cut without a seam, the arm 
scye is sunk Y% inch below the breast line and the side- 
body point 8 is 34 inch below point 7 on the back, in 
order to lift the coat up and make it swing out from the 
body of the wearer. 
Back sleeve notch 17 is 1-12 breast down from M. Front 

sleeve notch 28 is Y% inch up from breast line K. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 

Coat and J 'est System 



55 



PLATE XXIII. 




Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXIV. 



SINGLE BREASTED OVERCOAT. 

T"M1E particular feature on this coat is a long roll of distance from 29 to U }i inch more. 

*■ lapel. The front closes with two buttons, the U to V is A]/ 2 inches. 

lower button being opposite the bottom of the forepart. W is half-way between U to V. 

The second button is 7 inches up from the lower one. Draw a line from 5 through point U, establishing point 7. 
The back and sides are moderately close fitting, with am- Then draw a line from 5 through V, establishing point 

pie hip fullness. The draft is made by the proportionate 6. 

method for a figure 5 feet 8 inches in length, from the 5 to 6 is the same as from 5 to 7. 

following measurements : Then shape back, coming back a good \ i inch from Y to 2. 

1 'least 40 Natural waist length. \7 l / 2 Shape through 8 and y inch back of 5 through point 10 

Waist 36 Hip 26y 2 to W. Shape forepart in the same manner from 3 

Hip .' 41 Full length 42 through 9 and 10 to V. 

9 to 3 is ]A inch less than 8 to 2, the back to go on a little 

TO DRAFT. . „ , 

full on to the forepart. 

Square out and down from A. 27 to K is 2)A inches more than the breast measure. 

A to B is 334 inches. Square down from K. 

B to C is y 3 breast. K to L is % breast. 

A to D is natural waist length. Square up for point M. 

To E is prominent part of hip, and to F full length of M to N is ^ inch less than J / s breast. 

coat. N to O is 14 inch. 

Square lines B, C, D, E and F. Draw a line from O to 26 and from O to 23. 

C to G is 1 inch more than y, breast. O to R is H inch less than 25 to O. 

G to I and G to H is J / 8 breast. M to 13 is % breast. 

IT to J is y 2 inch. 13 t0 14 J s .34 j ncn . 

J to S is Y(, breast. 13 to 15 is ^ of an inch. 

A to 24 is %. 15 to 32 is 2]/ A inches. 

24 to 25 is M inch. K to 33 is 3 inches. 

P to Q is y 2 inch. T to 19 is 2%. 

1 to -3 is y 2 inch. Sweep from 6 to point 11, using point O as pivot. 

B to 26 is y 2 inch. 11 to 12 is 1 % inches. 

I to 1 is 1-12 breast. J to 21 is 1 inch more than y/ 3 of the waist length. 

1 to Y is % inch. I to 4 is % breast, and J to 22 is y inch. 

C to 27 is Y%. Draw break of roll from the first service button, point 20 
D to 28 is 34. through point 15, establishing point 17. 

E to 29 is y 8 , and F to 30 is y 2 inch. 17 to 18 is 34 inch. 

Point 8 and 9 is 1-12 below breast line. The width of the lapel at notch is 2 inches and the collar 
Measure width of back opposite sleeve notch, then make 1^. 



Stone's .-Id: 'd iic a! Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



57 



PLATE XXIV. 




58 



'tone's Advanced Superlative 

Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXV. 



SINGLE BREASTED BOX OVERCOAT. 



By Proportions. 



We will now proceed to draft a loose-fitting or draped 
( ivercoat by these proportions : 

Note. — Before drafting draped coats read up on arm 
scye and neck gorge, mixed proportions and drapery. 
( See Index. ) 

Actual breast 40 

Scye proportion 40 

Neck proportion 39 

Actual size of coat wanted 44 

Height 5 feet 8 inches. 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3j4 inches. 

13 to C is Yi, 40 scye. 

A to D is 17 inches (one-fourth of height). 

D to E is X' _. inches {%, of height ). 

A to F is 40 inches, or any length desired. Square lines 
B. C, D, E and F. 

C to G is 12 inches or 1 inch more than l / 2 of 44, breast 
division. 

G to I and G to H is Yx inch more than l /% scye or 40. 
breast division. 

A to Q is T 4 inch more than K on 39, breast division, 
which is the proportion of the neck. O to R is Y inch. 

P to S is Y\ inch. 

II to T is 1-12 breast. 

T to U is y$, inch. 

D to 5 and F to 6 is yi inch. 

Square down from U through V to 7. 

The width of back at bottom may be made to style or 
fancy. In this case, when the coat is short and not ex- 
tremely bell, I cut it straight down from the scye seam. 

(' to J is 2' j inches more than half of 44 draped breast 
measure. 

Square up and down from J. 

K to L is J s of 40, actual breast measure. 

L to M is one seam less than % of 39 or neck proportion. 



M to N h 



inch. 



Draw a line from X to 1! and from N to P. 
N to O is % breast. 
N to 4 is Ys, inch less than R to S. 

V to W is 5 inches. Draw a line through 17 and W to 
F. 

U to 8 is Yz inch. H to 1 and I to 2 is • .', inch. 
8 to F is the same as U to F. Sweep from F for point Y 
using shoulder point X as pivot. 

Y to Z is 1 inch. 

J to 12. front of coat, is 2j4 inches. 

X to 13 is IYa and at point Z only J4 inch. 

2 to 14 is y 2 inch more than Yi of waist length. 

The width of lapel at notch is \Y\ and the collar is \Ya 

inches. 

Now, the first question that you will ask is, Why is the 
scye dropped and the back moved down J/> inch? Why 
not move the forepart up so that 8 comes up to U and N 
to M ? 

Well, it can be done in this case, only I get away from 
my regular method of drafting close-fitting coats when I 
find the front shoulder has got to come down to point N. 

In loose fitting overcoats I find that the sidebody has 
to be lifted up so as to bring the forepart away from the 
client's leg; hence I drop the back or lift up the sidebody. 
whichever you want to call it. 

The next question you will a<sk is no doubt this: C to 
G is 1 inch more than T j of 44 breast on division and G 
to J is l 1 / inch more than T {> of 44 breast measure. 
Should not the arm scye be in the middle? To this I 
wish to call the reader's attention to the fact that in the 
front of the coat we have canvas haircloth and padding, 
besides the facing and pockets, which all takes up extra 
room, while in the back of the coat there is only the lin- 
ing to provide for. 

The particular features are a loose box overcoat with 
narrow shoulders. The shoulders must be narrow be- 
cause the coat is large and roomy. (See Plate XL. for 
further explanation.") 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



.SO 



PLATE XXV. 




60 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXVI. 



DOUBLE BREASTED SACK OVERCOAT. 



The particular features are a long and heavy roll of 
lapel with a swell convex creased edge. The back and 
sides are full, but not the box effect, but on the other 
hand just a trifle shapely. The draft is made by the 
proportionate method from the following measurements 
for a figure measuring in height 5 feet 8 inches : 

Xatural waist length, \7'/> 

Full length 58 

Breast 40 

Waist 36 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3 J / 2 inches. 

B to C is l /i breast. 

A to D is natural waist length and to F full length of coat. 

D to E is >j of natural waist length. 

Square lines B, C. D, E and F. 

D to 20 is $4, inch. 

E to 21 and F to 22 is y> inch. 

Shape back center seam as shown in diagram. 

C to G is 1 inch more than ]A of breast. 

G to H and G to I is % breast. 

1 to 3 is Y\ inch. A to Q is }£ breast. 

O to R is ji inch. I to 1 is 1-12 breast. 

to 4 is 3,s inch. 22 to U is l / 2 breast. 

S to T is 5 inches. 



Shape back from 1 through 3 to U and forepart from 3 
through T to V. 

I tn 2 is whatever falls out after the back and forepart 
cross at line 3. 

_' to V is the same as 1 to U. 

1'' to J is 2]A inches more than ]/z of breast measure. 

Square up and down from J. 

K to L is ]4, breast. 

L to M is yl inch less than yi breast. 

M to N is l / 2 inch. 

O to P is y 2 inch. 

Draw a line from N to P. 

N to 5 is }4 inch less than R to 4. 

L to 8 is yi breast. 

8 to 10 is J / 2 inch. 

8 to 9 is 2 inches. 

II is 1 ' 4 inches forwards of line J. 
Take out a small V as from 16 to 17. 
J to 12 is ~>Y\ inches. 

9 to 15 is 2Y inches. 

The width of lapel at notch is 2^4 inches and the collar 

\yi inches. 
From center line to 13 is Ay 2 inches, and from W to 14 

is 3 inches. 
Sweep from V for point W, using shoulder point N as 

pivot. 
W to X is 1 inch. 
H to 18 is 13 inches. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J 'est System 



61 



PLATE XXVI. 




62 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXVII. 



FULL BOX OVERCOAT. 



The front closes with two buttons. The length of the 
lapel will average \7\ 2 inches. The width of lapel at 
notch is 2 inches and the collar 1^4- The draft is made 
by the proportionate method for a figure measuring in 
height 5 feet 8 inches from the following measurements : 

Breast 40 

Natural waist length. . 17}4 
Full length 46 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3 l /> inches. 

B to C is Yi breast. 

A to D is natural waist length. 

B to E is 8->4 inches or J4 of the natural waist length. 

A to F is full length of coat. 

Square lines B, C, D, E and F. 

Drape coat on breast line two sizes, using 42 breast on 

breast line only. 
C to G is 1 inch more than y 2 of 42 breast. 
G to H and G to I is 34 of 40 breast. 
C to K is 2J4 inches more than y 2 of 42 breast. 
K to L is J4 inch less than 34 of 40 breast. 
M to O is y$ of 40 breast. 
A to R is % breast. 
R to S is y A inch. 



O to 4 is 34 inch. 

H to 2 is 1-12 breast. 

O to T is 24 inch. 

T to U is 1J4 inch. 

M to N is y 2 inch. 

O to P is y 2 inch more than % breast. 

P to 7 is 1 '4 inch ami 1' to 6 is y 2 inch. 

6 to 8 is 2y 2 inches. 

N to 5 is % inch less than S to 4. 



J to 



?2 



is Vs 



inch. 



Q to 21 is 1-12 breast. 

II to I is 24 inch. 

C to V is J4 inch. 

Lay corner of square at I, let arm rest on V and square 

down from point I for width of back. 
X to Y is 5y 2 inches. 
Draw spring line of forepart from point J through Y 

for Z. 
Point 3 is 34 inch forward and down from point 2. 
Lower arm scye 34 inch below breast line. 
3 to X is the same as 2 to W. 
Sweep from Z for point 13. using shoulder point N as 

pivot. 
13 to 14 is 1 inch, 10 to 11 is 2j4 inches, 14 to 15 is 34 

inch. 
Shape as represented. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



PLATE XXVII. 



63 




64 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 

Coat and I 'est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXVIII. 



S. B. NEWMARKET OVERCOAT. 



The draft is produced from the following measure- 
ments by the proportionate method for a man averaging 
in height 5 feet 8 inches. 

Natural waist length \7y 2 Breast 40 

..20 Waist 36 

..50 Hip 41 



Fash, waist length.. 
Full length 



TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 324 inches. 

B to C is Y$ breast. 

A to D is natural waist length, to E fashionable waist 

length and to F full length of coat. 

Square lines B, C, D and E. 

Note. — The breast is draped two sizes. 
C to G is 1 inch more than ]/ 2 of 42 breast. 
G to I and G to H is y inch more than ]/$ of 40 breast. 
C to J is iy 2 inches more than }4 of 42 breast measure. 
For all other points use the division of the actual breast. 
J to K is y$ breast. 

L to M is y inch less than }4 breast. 
M to N is 1 inch. 
D to 34 is y 2 inch. 
34 to 1 is 2y inches. 
1 to 2 is 24 inch. 

32 to 4 is 1 y and 4 to 3 is 1 '4 inch. 
G to 30 is )/ 2 inch. 



A to O is y, breast. 

to P is % inch. 
Q to R is ^4 inch. 

R to X is 224 inches. 

X to W is y 2 inch. 

7 is 24 and 8 is y inch below the fashionable waist line. 

Sweep from 7 for point 13 using shoulder point N as 

pivot. 
L to 17 is yi breast. 

17 to 18 is I34 inch. 

18 to 31 is 2 inches. 

5 to 6 is 2y 2 inches and 25 to 14 is 2j4 inches. 
25 is y 2 inch above 13. 

12 to 11 is 1 inch, and a small V is taken out as at 
point 10. 

Measure forepart and sidebody from 25 to 12, 11 to 10, 
9 and 8 to 7, and make skirt the same distance as 
from 13 to 16. 

Draw a straight line from 7 to 13. 

10 to 33 is 24 of an inch. 

1 to 23 is half of natural waist length. 
23 to 24 is \y inch. 

Shape spring from 16 swelling out 24 inch at 24 through 

22 down to point T. 
16 to 22 and T is J4 inch more than 21 to U. 

13 to 19 is the same as 16 through 22 to T. 
Shape as represented. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J 'est System 



65 



PLATE XXVIII. 




66 



Stone's . Idvanced Superlative 
Coat and Test System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXIX. 



SINGLE BREASTED FLY FRONT PALETOT. 



The draft is made by the proportionate method from 
the following measurements : 

Natural waist \7)A Waist 38 

Fashionable waist 20 Seat 43 

Full length of coat 48 Breast 42 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is Z l / 2 inches. 

B to C is 34 breast. 

A to D is natural waist length, to E fashionable waist 

length and to F full length of coat. 
Square lines B, C, D and E. 
C to G is 1 inch more than 34 breast. 
G to I and G to H is 34 inch more than 34 breast. 
I to J is Y inch. 

C to K is 3 inches more than 34 of breast measure. 
Square up and down from K. 
L to M is Y& breast. 
M to N is 34 inch l ess than 34 breast. 
N to O is J4 inch. 

A to P is 34 inch more than 34 breast. 
P to Q is Ys inch. 
R to U is y 2 inch. 
D to 7 is 34 inch. 
7 to 8 is 3 inches. 
R to 1 is 3 inches. 
1 to 2 is V> inch down and forward. 



8 to 9 is Y inch. 

W to 10 is 134 and 10 to 11 is 1 54 inch. 

J to 21 is 34 inch. ' 

13 is Ys '"eh below line 24. 
AT to 3 is 34 breast. 

3 to 5 is 34 inch. 

3 to 4 is Ya inch. 

5 to 6 is 234 inches. 

O to Z is Y\ inch. 

Sweep from 13 for point 14, using point Z as pivot. 

15 to 16 is 1 inch and 18 to 19 is 34 inch. 

X to 12 is 34 inch. 

K to 30 is 234 and 14 to 29 is 234 inches. 

TO DRAFT THE SKIRT. 

Come down from 8 to 22, one-half of the natural waist 
length, 173 4 on halves. 

21 to 25 is 4 inches. 

Sweep from X for point Y, using point Z as pivot. 

Measure forepart from 16 to 18, 19 to 20 and 12 to 13. 
and make skirt from 15 to Y 1 inch less. 

Draw a line from Y through 25 and shape spring as rep- 
resented. 

Y to 25 and 26 is the same as 24 to 23. 

14 to 28 is the same as 24 to 23. 

15 to 36 is 3 inches. 

The widtli of lapel at notch is 2Y and the collar is 1 ! 1 
The length of lapel is 11 inches. 



Stone's . Idvanced Superlative 
Coat and J 'est System 



67 



PLATE XXIX. 




68 



Stone's . Idvanced Superlative 
Coat and J 'est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXX. 



The draft is made the same as a regular overcoat. The 
shoulders are cut off a> per -haded portions and this is 
added to the sleeve top. The draft is made by the pro- 
portionate method for a figure measuring in height 
8 inches, from the following measures: 



feet 



Natural waist length. A? 1 /- 
Full length of coat. . .46 



Breast 42 

Waist 40 



Note. — The coat is draped across breast 2 inches or 
to 44 breast. All other points are drafted by the regu- 
lar 42 breast. 

TO DRAFT. 



RAGLAN OVERCOAT. 

For the notch of the sleeve from X to 9 is -}i inch and 
O to S is ;4 breast. Cut off back and front shoulder 
as per shaded portion, the back from T to S and the 
front from 27 to 9. 

Save these pieces and use them in cutting the Raglan 
sleeve. 

THE SLEEVE. 

The sleeve for a regular overcoat is drafted in the fol- 
lowing manner : 

Square down and back from A. 
A to B is 1-12 and A to C J 4 breast. 



A to B is 3)4 inches. B to C is Yi breast. 

A to L) is natural waist length and to F full length of 

coat. 
D to E is ) 2 of natural waist length. 
Square lines B, C, D, E and 1'. 

C to M is 1 inch more than >4 of 44 breast proportion. 
M to N and M to O is A of the actual breast. 
K to L is 2-} 4 inches more than ' 2 of 44 breast. 
Square up and down from L for a front center line. 
From front center line to U is ji and from U to 1 1 is ' 4 

inch less than y s of actual breast. 
11 to 10 is 1 inch. 

Draw a line from 10 to L! and from 10 to 33. 
D to J is A- E to 3 and F to G is l / 2 inch. 
( ) to 24 is 1-12. O to 26 is y A inch. 



C to F is ! 4 inch less than l / 2 breast. 
A is half-way between C and F. 
Square up to H and draw a line from II to C. 
Sha] e top sleeve from F to II to C and L. 
C to D is -?4 inch. D to J is sleeve length. 
I to K is m inch. D to M and J to < ) is ; | inch. 
J to R and D to L is Y\ inch. 
P to O is 1 inch and F to R is 1 T A inch, 
ddie top sleeve is shown by solid lines and the under 
sleeve by dotted lines. 



NOW FOR THE RAGLAN SLEEVE. 

Measure the distance of the back of the coat from S 
to O. Apply these on the sleeve as from S to T and add 
Y of an inch for fullness. Then measure the distance 
of the forepart of the coat from 9 to 27. Apply this on 
the sleeve draft from C to U and add iy inch for full- 
ness. Sweep from U for point V, using point C as 



Lav corner of square at 26 and drop arm of square down pivot and sweep from point T for Y. using point F as 
Y of an inch as from K to 22, then square down width pivot. Then take the two pieces that have been cut off 
of back as from 26 through 1, 2 and 3. 

2 to 6 is 5 inches. 

Draw a line from 26 through 6 for point ?. 



24 to 25 is ! _> inch. A to P is A breast. 
P to Q i- - ; 1 inch. 33 to R is Y inch. 
OO to is -A inch more than Ai breast. 
13 to 12 is Yi, inch. L to 14 is 2 1 _. inches. 
18 to 17 is 2 A inches. 19 to 20 is 2 inches. 
Sweep from 5 for 22. using point 10 as pivot. 
22 to 23 is 2 inches. 9 to 28 is W A inch. 
28 to 30 is -'.; of waist length. 
30 t<> 31 is - ; with the pocket opening. 



from the front shoulder and back, and lay on to the 
sleeve draft as shown by shaded portion, and if done 
correctly the shoulder piece, when laid so it touches point 
V, will overlap the sleeve top from y 2 to Y of an inch. 
Then add two seams as at point W and X, and shape 
the back of the sleeve as from F through Y to V, add- 
ing to the top sleeve whatever has been cut off from the 
shoulder of the coat. Be sure and add outlet to the top 
of the sleeve at point V so that the sleeve will be long 
enough in case the coat has to be raised in the neck. 
This is a most particular point that the cutters invariablv 
forget when cutting out the cloth. 




Stone's Advanced Superlative 

Coat and Test System 



69 



PLATE XXX. 




EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXXI. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and I "est System 



RAGLAN OVERCOAT. 



The Raglan Overcoat is drafted from an ordinary 
Box Overcoat pattern from the following measure- 
ments : 

Natural waist \7 l / 2 Breast 42 

Full length 44 Prominent part hip..26}4 

Height of figure, 5 ft. 8 in. 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down froin A. 

A to B is Z l / 2 inches. B to C is ' .* breast. 

A tn I! is r 4 of hei^'.it plus '.j inch (17'j inches.) 

A to E is 26 l /j , prominent part of hip, and to F full 

leng f ! _* coat, 44 inches. 
Square lines B, C, D, E and F. 

Note. — Drape coat on breast line 2 sizes. 
C to G is 1 inch more than y> of 42 breast. 
G to H and G to J is l /% of actual 42 breast. 
D to 10 is Yx inch. 
Draw a line from '4 inch in at A through 10 and 14 to 

point 11. 
12 to K is 2y 2 inches more than ]A of 44 breast. 
K to L is '-8 of 42 breast, and L to M is }i inch less than 

Ys of 42 breast. 
Square down from K and up from L to M. 
A to O is % breast and Q to R is y inch. 
S to 7 is y 2 inch. 

Point U is half-way between J and G. 
12 to 13 is y 2 inch.' 
Lay corner of square at U, letting short arm drop to 13, 

and square down from U through V and Y. 
Draw a line from O to S. 
O to 6 is y% inch less than R to 7. 



V to W is 5y inches. 
18 to 19 is 3 inches. 
20 to 21 is 2 inches. 
U to 8 is 1-12 breast. 

Y is y% inch up from X. 



N to 18 is % breast. 
K to 1 is 2' 4 inches. 
22 to 2?> is \y A inches. 

8 to 9 is ' _. inch. 

9 to Z is the same as A to Y. 
Sweep from point Z for point 15, using shoulder point O 

as pivot. 
IS to 16 is 1 inch. H to I is y 2 inch. 

I to 17 is y 3 waist length, 17'/> on thirds. 

This will complete the draft of the ordinary Box Over- 
coat. 



The proper way to cut a Raglan is to first locate the 
center of the shoulder. This is done in the following 
manner: Point T is the center of the shoulder. Draw 
a line from R to T and O to T. Then add to width of 
back y of an inch as from R to 2, and take off same 
amount from O to B. The center of the shoulder will 
now be as from 2 to T and T to P. P to 4 is y of an 
inch, 43 is y inch up from point I. Draw a line from 
4 to 43, then draw a line from 2 touching back at 42. 
Add 1 ' _> inch from 26 to 27 and from 24 to 25, and 
shape back from 2 through 27 to 43. 

Diagram B represents the front and back pieces as 
cut off for the Raglan. Dotted lines from 40 to 41 rep- 
resent the back and the front shoulder laid together. 
Line 30 and 31 is the center of the shoulder. 36 to 37 
is the same as 26 to 27, and 38 to 39 the same as 24 to 
25. Use these pieces as shown in Diagram B when 
drafting the sleeve. 

THE SLEEVE. 

Take an ordinary overcoat sleeve pattern and mark 
the center of the top sleeve as point A. Lay piece cut 
off from the back on to the top sleeve. Line G H on the 
sleeve should follow on line 2 42 on the back, and M to 
N is the same as 24 to 25. Lay front shoulder piece so 
that line B F will run on 43, 26 and 4 on the coat. O to 
P is the same as 26 to 27 on the coat. Point A is the 
middle of the top sleeve. Make a point 5-s of an inch 
each way from point A. Shape back section from I. 
through R to D. and whatever has been added to the 
back section from to R. Reduce the front shoulder 
as from T to S and shape sleeve from K through E to 
D. Add seams to the upper sleeve all the way down 
from L through D to E, and from K through D and E. 
Add from C to U whatever the back is smaller as from 
28 to 29. A Raglan sleeve drafted with the seam in the 
center need have no fullness in either front or back, as 
the rounding is put in over the top of the shoulder. In 
making up the garment the canvas must go in the shoul- 
der the same as in a regular overcoat, and a piece of 
muslin or inter-lining should go around over the back to 
meet the shoulder, and be fastened to the canvas at the 
top of the shoulder so as to hold the inside of the coat 
together. 




Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and 1 'est System 



71 



PLATE XXXI. 




Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J 'est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXXII. 



INVERNESS COAT. 



The draft is produced by proportions from the follow- 
ing measures : 

Natural waist length 17 Breast 40 

Full length 45 Waist 36 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to I! is 3y 2 inches. 

B to G is l /i breast. 

A to D is natural waist length and to F full length of 

coat. 
D to E is l / 2 of natural waist length. 
Square lines B, G, D, E and F. 
G to C is Y§ inch. 

Draw back center line from A through G to O. 
G to H is 3 inches more than y 2 breast measure. 
Square up and down from H.' 
G to I is V 2 more than % breast. 
I to J is y breast. 

O to P is V 2 inch more than y 2 breast. 
A to M is yi breast. 
M to N is y of an inch. 
K to 2 is Y\ of an inch. 

V to \V is y inch less than y breast. 

V to Y is l / 2 inch more than y breast. 

Y to 24 is l / 2 inch. 

Y to 23 and 19 to 20 is 2'4 inches. 
21 to 22 is 2 inches. 

16 to 17 is y of an inch. 



15 to 16 is 7>y 2 inches. 

Q to R is 5 inches. 

Draw spring line from J through R to 34. 

S to T is \y 2 inch. 

Shape scye by coming out y 2 inch at V and hollow y 

inch at 28. 
I to X is J /s breast. 
W to I is 1 inch. 
K to L is 1-16 breast. 
Draw a line from W to I. 
S to 3 is y$ of an inch less than N to 2. 
K to 4 is y breast. 
K to 36 is yd breast. 
D to Z is y, breast. 

Draw a line from L through Z for run of cape. 
The length of cape is obtained by using the length of 

sleeve from 1 to 13; sleeve length 18^4; to this add 1 

inch, V)y 2 inches. 
Sweep from 13 to 11 and 12 by shoulder point W and 

lengthen cape y of an inch at 11-12 below sweep. 
The front of cape is y inch less than the forepart. 
I to 14 is y, of waist length. 
The collar is drafted by squaring back and down from 

29. 
24 tn -> is 2 inches and 29 to 30 is the length of collar 

required. 

30 to 31 is 1 J4 inch. 

31 to 32 is 234 inches. 

The distance from 4 to 5 on cape is y of an inch more 
than 4 to 3 and 2 to 36. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



73 



PLATE XXXII. 




/4 



Stone's . Idvanced Superiath e 
Coat and I 'est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXXIII. 



COMBINATION CAPE METHOD. 



From this method may be drafted the -\j circle military 
cape or the regular shoulder cape with a seam in the cen- 
ter of the shoulder. The accompanying draft is for a 
norma] figure, 40 breast: 

TO DRAFT. 

Draw a straight line from A down to R. 

Make a point at A. 

A to B is li breast. 

A to C is yi breast. 

Square back from C to D. 

C to D is ]/i breast. 

Lay corner of square at point A, letting short arm rest 

at point D and draw back center line from A to E. 
A to F is y$ breast. 
A to G is J4 breast. 
F to S is % breast. 
Square up from S to T. 
Square lines from G through I 1 to O. and from B 

through P to N. 
Draw line from A through point P. 
Apply length desired from F to E. 
Sweep from E through X to R, using point T as pivot. 
C to U is 2J4 inches. 
Square down from U to V. 
Draw line from A through W to U. 
Add from W to X and U to Y, 2 inches, or whatever is 

desired for lap in front. 

The full size of the draft will make a Y\ circle cape, 
and by splitting it through on the shoulder from T to P 
and plaiting N over to O as per dotted line X. 9 P O, we 
have a % circle with a A" taken out in the shoulder. By 



cutting pattern as illustrated by the shaded portions the 
regular close-fitting cape is obtained. 

THE COLLAR. 

The collar is drafted by drawing a line from 1 to 2. 
Square down from 1 to 3. 

1 to 3 is 2 inches. 

Shape from 2 to 3 as illustrated in diagram. 

2 to 5 is 1J4 inches for stand. 
5 to 6 is 3 inches. 

1 to 4 is 2 inches. 

Lav corner of square at 3, letting arm rest on point 4 and 
square down from 3 to 7 for front of collar. 

VARIATIONS. 

For a client with a long neck add from C to M what- 
ever extra height in neck is desired, square back from N 
to J and lay corner of square at point A, draw back 
center line from A to K as indicated by dotted line. 

For a short neck figure go up from C to L whatever 
extra amount neck is shorter than proportion. Square 
out to point H and draw back center line from A to I as 
indicated by dot and dash line. For stooped or erect 
figures slide point A up or down on back center line ac- 
cording to whatever stoop or erect is wanted. 

For a )A inch stooped form go down from A to 2, }4 
inch, and for a T /> inch erect form go back from A to 3, 
'_> inch, then change the neck gorge to conform to the 
new center point, i. e., for a stooped figure 2 to F should 
be J /$ and 2 to B 34 breast, and in an erect figure 3 to F 
is T s and 3 to B is T 4. The cape is usually made fly- 
front and has a Prussian collar. 



Stone's . Idvanced Superlative 
Coat and I 'est System 



75 



PLATE XXXIII. 




CD/ 



76 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXXIV. 



S. B. SACK FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE. 



The draft is made by the proportionate method from 
the following measures for a figure averaging 5 feet 8 
inches in height : 

Natural waist length, \7 l / 2 Breast 49 

To prominent part of Waist 52 

hip 2S]/ 2 Hip 51 

Full length of coat, 31 ]/ 2 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3y 2 inches. 

I', to C is l /i breast. 

A to D is natural waist length, to E prominent part of 

hip and to F full length of coat. 
Square lines B. C, D, E and F. 
D to J is ; .s inch. 
E to H and F to G is y> inch. 
C to N is y 2 inch more than l / 2 breast. 
N to O and X to P is ' 4 inch more than ' % breast. 
O to T is % inch. 
Square up lines P, O, T. 
A to 33 is %. 
33 to 34 is y of an inch. 
T to W is '/ 6 breast. 

K to L is 2 '4 inches more than y of breast measure. 
Square down from L. 
L to M is 's breast. 
Square up from M to 13. 

Note: In a normal coat the waist measure is 4 inches 
less than the breast. In this case it is three inches more 
waist than breast, which gives 7 inches of extra fat. Of 
this add '< to the front. 2]/ 3 inches from 26 to 28. 
Square down from 28 for 29. For every inch of fat 
added to the front as from 26 to 28 recede '4 inch from 



13 to 25, which in this case will be f\x inches. 
25 to 14 is l /% breast less one seam. 

14 to 15 is 1 inch. 

Draw a line from 15 to B and 15 to 35. 

15 to 32 is y& inch less than 34 to 35. 
Draw a line from 25 to 30. 

15 to 38 is y> inch less than y breast. 

Draw a line from 1! to O and drop point of sidebody 
y 2 inch below V I'. 

U to V is 1 inch. 

P to R is y 2 inch. 

6 to 7 and 3 to 4 is y 2 inch. 

7- to 8 is 3^4 inches. 

V to 5 is the same as U to 4. 

Locate pocket opening by squaring down from T to 40, 
12 inches. 

38 to 21 is 2y inches. 

24 to 22 is iy inches. 

Add to front edge from 28 to 30 and 2<> to 31.1 inch. 

This is less than what is usually added in the normal 
coat, but the extra size of the coat across being so 
great, less front is needed. 

Sweep from 5 for point 36. using point 15 as pivot. 

36 to 37 is 2 inches. 

Split forepart through as from X to Y and pocket 
through from Y to '/.. pivot at point 7. and overlap pat- 
tern 2 inches as from 11 to 12. The forepart will then 
be as per dotted line 9, 1. S and 10. Add seams to V. 
Cut out under the arm X, Y and 1,9. 

The width of lapel and collar at notch is 1% inches. The 
collar is drafted by drawing a line from top service 
button to a point 1 inch forward from shoulder point 
15. The breakdine of the collar will be V> inch down 
from 16. The stand of the collar is 1 inch and the 
turn-over 1?4 inches. 



Stone's Advanced Superlath 

Coat and Vest System 



77 



PLATE XXXIV. 




Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Test System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXXV. 



TWO BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE. 



From the following measurements : 



Natural waist length 17 yi 

Fash, waist length 19 

Full length of coat 38 



Breast 44 

Waist 44 

Hip 45 



TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3y inches. B to C is 3/3 breast. 

A to D is natural and to E fashionable waist length, to 

F, full length of coat. 
Square line- 1'.. C, D, K and F. D to 7 is ' 4 inch. 
C to G is 3/2 inch more than y 2 breast. 
G to I and G to H is J4 mcn more than J<i breast. 
Square up from I and H and down from G. 
A to N is ]A inch more than % breast. 
N to O is ^ inch. 
P to 1 is 34 inch. 

1 to 2 is 2V% inches. 

2 to 3 is 34 inch down and forward. 
D to 7 is y% inch. 

7 to 8 is 2}i inches. 8 to 9 is y inch. 

G to 4 is iy inches. 

R to 5 is 3 inches. 5 to 6 is 34 inch. 

25 tn K is 2' | inches more than half of breast measure. 

K tn j is 14 breast. J to 42 is T 4 inch for every inch of 

fat added to front from S to T. in this case 5-16 inch. 
Square up from 42 to establish L. 
L to M is % inch less than J4 breast. 
M to Q is y 2 inch. 
Draw a line from Q to P. 
to 22 is i/& inch less than O to I. 
L to 19 is y breast. 19 to 20 is y inch. 
Draw a line from L to K and square down from K to U. 



S to T is J/3 of extra size waist. In this case the waist is 

4 inches more than proportions; 3/3 of 4 is I3/3. 
For the front length of forepart, sweep from V for point 

U and 16, using shoulder point as a pivot. 
Draw a line as from 12 to U, then lengthen the forepart 

y§ inch below this line as at point 13 from 14. 
13 to 14 is Js inch and % inch is taken out in a V at 

point 15. 
The front length of forepart will be where sweep crosses 

T at 16. 
19 to 21 is 2'( inches. T to 17 is l r 4 inches. 
The distance from 16 to 18 is 4 inches and 18 to top 

buttonhole is also 4 inches. 

TO DRAFT SKIRT. 

X is half way between W and U. 

Square back from X to Y. 

In the regular skirt the top runs from points U to Y, but 

in order to get the length of forepart at points 13 and 

14. the line is lowered J4 inch as from Y to 30 and 

U to 31. 
Measure forepart and side-body from Z, 15, 12, 11 and 

V, and make the skirt from 29 to 30 one-half inch less 

than from 29 to 31. 
8 to 27 is J4 of natural waist length. 
27 to 28 is \y inches. 

30 to 32 is the same as 10 to 26. 

31 to 33 is the same as 30 to 32. 33 to 34 is 2J4 inches. 
Draw break line of lapel from first buttonhole through 

19 to 36. 36 to 37 is y inch. 
Draw a line from 19 through 37 to 38. 
38 to 39 is 1 inch. 38 to 40 is 1M inches. 
The width of lapel at notch is 2 inches and the collar l?s 

inches. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



79 



PLATE XXXV. 




80 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and / 'est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXXVI. 



DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK. 



Double breasted Frock for a corpulent figure. The 
particular features are a full chest, close fitting at the 
waist and with a full bell skirt effect. The draft is pro- 
duced by proportions from the following measures: 

Natural waist 17%, Breast 45 

Fashionable waist 18^ Waist 43 

Full length of coat 42 Hip 43 

Height, 5 feet 8 inches. 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3Y inches. 

B to C is l /i breast. 

A to D is natural, to E fashionable waist length, and to 
33 full length of coat. 

Square lines B, C, D, and E. 

C to F is Y inch more than J4 breast. 

F to G is l /\ inch more than Y breast. 

G to H is Y* mcn more than Y breast. 

A to S is Y ' ncn more than Y breast. 

S to T is Y inch. 

R to U is Ys mch. 

C to I is 2Y inches more than J4 of breast measure. 

Square down from I through L. 

I to J is Y breast. 

Square up from J to K. 

In a normal coat 1 J 4 inch is suppressed between back 
and side-body and Y m °b between side-body and fore- 
part. The normal figure will measure 4 inches less 
waist than breast; in this case we have 2 inches extra 
fat, and as we draft only % the coat, only Y °f f a t is 
used, in this case it is 1 inch. 

L to M is % inch ; of the remaining Y mc b a< 'd Yi from 
(> to 7 and Y- from 8 to 9. Recede from K to N Y 
the distance from L to M, 

D to 4 is Y inch. 



4 to 5 is 2Y& inches. 

5 to 6 is Y inch. 

Y to 8 is 1 Y inches. 
8 to 10 is 1J4 inches. 
F to 3 is Y inch. 

U to 1 is 2Y inches. 

1 to 2 is Y mch forward and down. 

Line 11 and 12 is Y% inch below construction line. 

Sweep from 11 for 17 by shoulder point P as pivot. 

N to O is Y mcn l ess than % breast. 

O to P is y 2 inch. 

Draw a line from P to R. 

P to V is Y% inch less than T to U. 

G to Z is Y> breast. 

N to Q is 34 inch more than Y> breast. 

O to 20 is 1 inch. 

W U» X is Y- inch. 

17 to 18 is Y* inch. 

15 to 16 is 1 Y inch an 'l 

Y inch is cut out at 14. 

The width of lapel at waist seam is 2% inches and at 
breast line 3' 4 inches. The width of lapel at notch is 
2) 1 and the collar ljHi inches. 

THE SKIRT. 

Draw a straight line from 11 to 17. 

Measure forepart and side-body from 23 to 14, 13 and 

12 to 11. Make skirt the same distance from 23 to 24. 

Then measure forepart and lapel from 23 to 15, 16 to 

18 and 25 to outer edge of lapel; then make skirt the 

same distance from 23 to 25. 
5 to 26 is Y> of natural waist length. 
26 to 27 is 3 inches. 
21 to 22 is Y2 inch. 

24 to 28 is T 4 inch more than E to 33. 
17 to 30 is the same as 24 to 28. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Test System 



81 



PLATE XXXVI. 




82 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat'and 1'cst System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXXVII. 



FULL DRESS COAT FOR CORPULENT FIGURE 



The draft is made with a cut-off lapel and skirt for a 
corpulent figure from the following measurements : 

Natural waist 17 Breast 44 

Fashionable waist \8 l / 2 Waist 46 

Full length 40 Hip 46y. 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3}i inches. 

A to D is natural and to E fashionable waist length, an 1 

to 35 full length of coat. 
Square lines B, C, D and E. 
C to F is }i inch more than y breast. 
F to H and F to G is K inch more than % breast. 
C to I is 2y\ inches more than y 2 of breast measure. 
I to J is % breast. 

A to R is l / 2 inch more than J /$ breast. 
R to S is \s inch. 
T to U is Y% inch. 
T to 1 is 2V & inches. 
D to 4 is y& inch. 

4 to 5 is 2y& inches. 

5 to 8 is y inch. 

W to 6 is 134 and 6 to 7 is 1 y inch. 
F to 3 is y inch. 

In the normal figure the wai^t i^ 4 inches less than 
the breast. In this case the waist is 2 inches more than 
the breast, hence there is 6 inches of extra fat. As only 
half of the coat is drafted half of the fat is used, which 
in this case is 3 inches ; % of this amount is to be added 
from L to M in front of coat at waist line and the re- 
mainder. 1 inch, is divided into three parts, % of which 



is added to the forepart as from 6 to 9, and the remain- 
ing J/j is added to side-body as from 8 to 10. 
K to 20 is y of the amount added to front from L to M. 
20 to P is y inch less than y% breast. 
P to O is y inch. 

Draw a line from Q to B and from O to T. 
20 to 19 is y 6 breast and 19 to 21 is y inch. 
Q to V is y, inch less than S to U. 
Sweep from 11 for point 14, using shoulder point Q as 

pivot. 
Take out y of an inch in V in forepart as from 15 to 16. 
N to O is 2y inches. 

28 is halfway between M and N. 

Square back from 28 for point 29. Make a mark at 
point X, then measure forepart and side-body from 
X to 13 and 12 to 11 and make skirt the same distance 
from X to 29. 

5 to Y is y> of natural waist length. 

Y to Z is one inch. 

Measure distance of forepart from X through 15 and 16 
to and make skirt the same distance from X to 30. 
Then measure the whole distance of skirt from 29 to 
30 and come back y 2 inch more than two-thirds of 
this distance for point 31. 

29 to 34 is the same as E to 35. 
34 to 32 is 5 y inches. 

Draw a line from 31 to 32. 

32 to 33 is y of an inch. 

The width of lapel at waist seam is 1 4s inch finished. 
The width of lapel at notch is two inches, and the col- 
lar \y 2 inches. 

Finish as represented. 



Stone's Advanced Superlativ 
Coat and Test System 



83 



PLATE XXXVII. 




84 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and I 'est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXXVIII. 



S. B. SACK OVERCOAT. 



For a Corpulent Figure. 



The draft is made by proportions from the following 
measures : 

Natural waist length..!/^ Breast 52 

To prominent part of Waist 56 

hip 26)4 Hip 55 

Full length of coat 45 

Note. — There is no need of draping a coat as large 
as this, as on account of its size there will lie plenty of 
goods in the garment. 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3% inches and B to C is ^ breast. 

A to D is natural waist, to E prominent part of hip, and 
to F full length of coat. 

Square lines B, C, D, E and F. 

C to G is 1 inch more than ) 2 breast. 

G to I and G to H is }4 i ncn more than J /g breast. 

Square up from I and up and down from II. 

A to K is '/> inch more than l /<*, breast.. 

K to L is J4 inch. 

1 to 40 is ]/i inch. Lay corner of square at 40, drop 
arm down x / 2 inch from line C to 24, then square 
down from 4 for width of back and hollow out }i 
inch as at 35. I to 1 is 1-12 breast. In shaping the 
back at arm scye come back y\ inch at point 32. 

24 to M is 2^4 inches more than J4 breast. 

M to N is ^ breast. 

Note. — In the normal coat the waist is 4 inches less 

than breast and seat 1 inch more than breast. In this 

case the waist is 4 inches more than breast, so we have 

here 8 inches of fat of which ] .; i^ added from T to U. 

Square down from U and come back % of this amount 
friim ( ) to P and draw a line from P to U. 



I' to Q is j4 inch less than l /$ breast, and Q to R is ]/ 2 

inch. R to 14 is ).\ breast. Draw a line from R to 

B and R to J. 
R to S is y& inch less than L to J. 
The front center line will run as per dotted line from P 

through 37, 18 to 38. 
X to Y is $1/4 inches. Draw a line from 40 through V 

to 4. Shape side seam coming in Y& inch at 36 and 

at 4. 
2 is y 2 inch forwards and down from 1. I to 1 is 1-12 

breast. 
2 to 4 is the same as 1 to Y. 
Sweep from 4 for point 12, using shoulder point R as 

pivot. 
12 to 13 is 1 inch from normal coat and y 2 of fat added 

to front of coat, which makes it in this case 2 l /s 

inches. 
14 to 15 is 2 l / 2 inches. 
37 to 17 is 2y 4 , 18 to 19 is 2 l / 4 and 13 to 20 is 2 inches. 

By shaping the forepart as per line 17, 19, 39 and 20, 
the front will be quite round at point 19. Point 5 is 
in the middle of the arm scye. Split forepart through 
as from 5 to 6 and pleat forepart over as is shown on 
diagram point 25 and 19 from front edge, running out 
to nothing at the end of the side pocket. Pleat front over 
so that back end of the pocket will open up l-)4 inches 
or 2 /i of fat added to the front edge from T to U. By 
pleating the pattern over the forepart will he as per 
broken line 8, 9, 10, 11 and 21. The front will now 
run straight down from 19 to 21 and will be too short 
in front, so it is necessary to lengthen the front of coat 
as from 21 to 22, two-thirds the amount that the coat 
has been pleated up at point 19. Add seam as from 5 
to 33 and 6 to 34. The width of lapel and collar at 
notch is 2 inches. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative. 
Coat and I 'est System 



85 



PLATE XXXVIII. 




86 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and f 'est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXXIX. 



FUR LINED OVERCOAT. 



For a Corpulent Figure. 



The draft is made from the following measures: 

Natural waist length 18 Breast over undercoat 44 

To prominent part of Waist over undercoat 44 

hip 27 Hip 45 

Full length of coat 50 

For fur lining add two sizes, then drape the coat two 
sizes. Use 48 breast and 48 waist for drafting. 

to draft. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 4 inches and B to C is 34 breast. 

A to D is natural waist length, to E prominent part of 

hip, and to F full length of coat. 
Square lines B, C, D, E, and F. 
C to G is 1 inch more than l / 2 of 48 breast. 
G to I and G to H is 34 of 46 breast. 
Square up from I and up and down from H. 
24 to M is 3 inches more than half of the draped 48 

breast which is used on the breast only. 
M to N is Y% of 46 breast. Square up from N to O. 

Note. — In a normal figure the waist is 4 inches less 
than the breast. In this case the breast and waist meas- 
ures are the same, hence we have 4 inches of fat. Of 
this add to front from T to U \ l /$ inches, or 34 of the 
fat. 

Square down from U for points V and 11. 
For every inch that has been added to the front recede 
34 inch from O to P. 



P to Q is J4 inch less than % breast. 

Q to R is jK i»ch. Draw a line from R to B and R to J. 

A to K is % breast and K to L is % inch. 

D to 25 and E to 26 is 34 inch. 

1 to 1 is 1-12 breast and I to 32 is % inch. Lay corner 
of square at 32, drop arm down }i inch as from C to 
24 and square down from 32 for X and 28. Hollow 
back a trifle at 29. Waist line from X to V is 5 l / 2 
inches. Draw a line from 32 through V to 31. 

2 is 34 inch in and down from 1. 

R to 4 is Y$ inch less than L to 3. 

H to 5 is 34 breast. G to 18 is % inch. 

R to S is 34 inch more than 34 breast, and S to 6 is 1 
inch. 6 to 7 is 1 inch. 

7 to 8 is 5 inches. Uto 9 is 4 and V to 10 is 334 inches. 

11 t<> 12 is 334 inches. 2 to 31 is the same as 1 to 28. 
Sweep from 31 for point W, using shoulder point R 
as pivot. Lengthen forepart 134 inches below point 
W. 

H to Z is 14 inches. Point 18 is in the middle of arm 
scye. Split forepart through from 18 to 13 (end of 
pocket opening), and cut pocket from 13 to 14, fold 
forepart over at 15 and 16 so that the pocket opens 
up from 13 to 17. Two-thirds of the fat added to 
front of coat. Add one seam as at points 22 and 23. 
The Collar — Draw a line as from 33 to point Q, then 

draw brake of collar from S through point R to 35. 

35 to 36 is 13^ inches and 35 to 37 and 6 to 38 is 5 
inches. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J 'est System 



87 



PLATE XXXIX. 




88 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XL. 



BOX OVERCOAT. 



For Comparison and Variation of Shoulder Width. 



Natural waist length \7 l / 2 Breast 42 

Full length 42 Waist 38 

Drape breast size two sizes. 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3% inches. 

B to C is ]/ 2 inch less than y, breast. 

A to D is natural waist, and to F full length of coat. 

D to E is y 2 of natural waist length. 

Square lines B, C, D, E and F. 

D to 5 and E to 6 is 3/ inch. 

C to G is 1 inch more than y 2 of 44 breast. 

G to I is y$ breast and G to H is y inch less than y of 
42 breast. 

A to K is % and K to L is ^4 inch. 

J to 17 is % inch. 

I to 1 is 1-12 breast. 

C to M is 2y 2 inches more than half of 44 breast meas- 
ure. 

M to N is % breast. 

O to P is y inch less than % breast. 



O to 12 is y 2 inch less than y breast. 

J to O is 1 inch. 

Draw a line from P to Q. 

P to 18 is ;Hj inch less than L to 17. 

12 to 13 is )/ 2 inch. 

13 to 14 is 2 inches. 
R to 4 is 1 inch. 

S to T is 5 inches. 

2 to U is the same as 1 to 4. 

Sweep from U for point V, using point P as pivot. 

V to 8 is 1 inch. 

M to 11 is iy A ; W to 10 is 2 inches. 

X to 9 is l-)4. running down to only J4 inch at V. 

H to Y is y 2 inch more than % of natural waist length. 

The width of lapel at notch is 2y 2 and the collar is iy 
inches. 

The length of the roll is 10 inches. 

The shaded portions on shoulder illustrate the amount 
that is cut from the width of shoulders as from IS 
to 20 and 17 to 21. Add to top of sleeve as from 25 
to 26. two-thirds of the amount cut off the shoulder. 
Add from 23 to 24 whatever the back has been re- 
duced at point 22. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



89 



PLATE XL. 




90 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J 'est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XLI. 



EXTERNAL ANATOMY. 



COMBINATION OF HEIGHT AND WIDTH 



Controlled by Flesh Developments. 



Following the principal points of height alone, we now 
take a step farther by combining both height and width 
controlled by flesh development. The three accompany- 
ing illustrations. 1, 2 and 3, will serve very nicely to help 
understand the value of height and width combined. It 
will be remembered that it has been said before "that it 
is impossible to get a man's height by his breast," such 
as we are now aware, is the fact. Explanation of the 
skeleton ( frame work of man ) has been carefully gone 
over, and it is believed that the reader of this book will 
absorb the contents thoroughly so as to more clearly un- 
derstand height and width combination. 

Diagram 1. 

Diagram 1 represents a normal figure. 5 feet 8 inches 
tall, standing a trifle heavy on the right leg, arms poised 
in a graceful position. 

Diagram 2. 

Diagram 2 represents a figure 5 feet 8 inches, same 
height as Figure 1. only difference being in their weights, 
as Figure 2, if you will notice, is very slender ( thin ). 

Diagram 3. 
Diagram 3 represents a figure 5 feet 8 inches tall, same 
height as Figures 1 and 2. only difference being in the 
extra development of muscles and fat. 

Comparison of Figures 1, 2, 3. 

In order to get the most knowledge possible we must 
compare these three figures together. First take their 
height as you notice their positions — frame work, as line 
A, B touching top of head, and bottom line (base) as R 
to S at the heels, are all the same. All three figures 5 
feet 8 inches tall. Now for their difference. We must 
compare Figures 1 — 3: Firstly, as to No. 1. Notice the 
line C, D, which touches the chins of all three figures. 
and is a straight line. Line E. F is shoulder height and 
passes through each figure at the same points. Next 
notice depth of scye line G, H. You will notice that in 
passing under the arms of Figure 1 to Figure 2 the. 
line is not straight, but goes up at T. then runs straight 
as to H. The distance of depth of arm circumference, 
as from F to H, is shorter. This is caused by a lack of 
flesh development. 



Now compare Figure 3 with Figure 1. Here you will 
notice just the reverse from the previous comparison of 
Figure 2 with 1. In Figure 3. because of the heavy 
muscular development the depth of scye line G drops 
down just the reverse from Figure 2. which runs up. 
The distance from E to G is greater in Figure 3 than it 
is in either 1 or 2. Next notice the natural waist line 
I, 1. This is J4 of height, and is the same in all three 
figures. Seat line K, L remains the same in all three 
figures. Now notice line N, O. See the breaks at V 
and W. This line, as you are aware, is the crotch line. 
The distance from N to R on Figure 3 is inside length, 
and by comparing the three figures together it will be 
observed that the legs on Figure 3 are shortest, and Fig- 
ure 1 medium, and Figure 2 is longest. This is caused 
by the filling in of flesh in the crotch, which causes a 
muscular figure of 5 feet 8 inches to have shorter legs 
than a slender figure of the same height. 

By comparing the inside sleeve length on all three fig- 
ures it will be observed that Figure 3 has the shortest 
arm length, while Figure 2 has the longer arm. Now 
notice the bones in the arms of all three figures are the 
same length, still the inside sleeve length is longer in Fig- 
ure 2 and shorter in Figure 3. This is caused by flesh 
development (muscles and fat). This takes up the sub- 
ject of external anatomy, which is by far the most inter- 
esting of all studies, combined with geometry and analy- 
sis makes an ideal subject. It is safe to say that as far as 
actual measures are concerned they are not, one, two, 
three, as compared to proportions. The extra develop- 
ment in Figure 3 makes all widths greater than the nor- 
mal Figure 1, and arms and legs are shorter. The 
widths affected are neck, arm scye, shoulder, breast, 
waist, seat, thigh, calf circumference. 

The circumference of Figure 2 will be less than the 
normal Figure 1, and a great deal less than Figure 3. 
The undeveloped flesh, of course, makes this difference, 
and legs and arms are longer. A small contradiction here 
takes place. For this purpose we establish a law on 
contradiction to help us get around some of the conflict- 
ing points. It is said all lengths are the same in figures 
of the same height. This is not always the case, because 
flesh development will change some height lengths, such 
as inside sleeve and inside leg. For this reason always 
compare all heights and widths with flesh development's. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



91 



PLATE XLI. 




92 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J 'est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XLII. 



SLOPING AND SQUARE SHOULDERS. 



In Figure 1 we have a normal man. and the minor 
dorsal lengths from B to A, and the major dorsal length 
from A to C, are as described in our proportionate fig- 
ure, line B being the top of the neck, line A top of the 
shoulder, and line C bottom of arm scye. The length 
of the waist from B to 1 is ' 4 of the entire height of the 
figure. In Fig. 2 we have a man the same height as 
Fig. 1. but with sloping shoulders and a long neck. The 
bottom of scye line is. in this instance we will say, one 
inch lower down than in the normal figure. The distance 
from D to F is the same as from C to A in Figure 
1. and the distance from D to E has been in- 
creased 1 inch. Some cutters call this figure slope- 
shouldered, others call it a long-necked figure ; I call 
them slope-shouldered and long-necked. In changing 
the pattern for this figure, the distance from E to D will 
determine the slope of the shoulder. 

In Figure 3 we have a reversed figure, a square 
shoulder and a short neck. In this instance the 
distance from G to H is less than normal, but the 
distance from G to J is the same as in Diagrams 1 and 



2. The length of waist from H to 3 will be the same as 
in Diagrams 1 and 2. Some cutters seem to think that 
there is a variation in the size of the arm scye, in the 
slope-shouldered and square-shouldered man, but such 
is not the case. It is simply a matter of minor dorsal 
lengths becoming longer or shorter. The major dorsal 
length will remain the same in all cases, muscular de- 
velopment from exercise or work may change the size 
of the arm scye, we have figures that require a large and 
a small scye, but the slope of the shoulders does not in 
any way regulate the size of the arm scye. This is 
merely a matter of sloping shoulders and a long neck, 
or square shoulders and a short neck, and the distance 
from M to N in Diagram 1, O to P in Diagram 2, and 
K to L in Diagram 3 will always remain the same. 

To more fully explain the variations of sloping and 
square shoulders I present herewith Diagrams 1, 2 and 

3. Figure 1 illustrates the man witli a normal shoulder 
slope. Figure 2 gives the man with a sloping shoulder 
or with a long minor dorsal length, while Fig. 3 illus- 
trates the man with a short minor dorsal length or a 
square shoulder. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 

Coat and J 'est System 



93 



PLATE XLII. 




94 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 

Sicmc's Advanced 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XLIII. 



MAPPING ACCORDING TO PROPORTIONS AND DEGREES OF DEFORMATIONS. 

Diagram 1. 



To more fully explain the method of mapping out the 
coat from the breast line up to the neck I herewith pre- 
sent Diagrams 1, 2 and 3. 

The heavy lines on Diagram 1 represent the outlines 
of the normal pattern. A to B is the minor dorsal 
length, B to C is the major dorsal length, and A to D is 
the natural length of waist. C to F is 2 l /\ inches more 
than half the breast measure. F to E is ^ breast. 
From line E G to line S, is V 4 inch less than 's breast, 
where lines S and line W, X, cross is the front shoulder 
point, which according to the lay in this draft is 1 inch 
down from the top line A, G. C to H is the normal blade 
and H to j is l / 2 inch more than ' 4 breast. Now, if you 
have a long-necked figure, use 1, 2 or 3 degrees. A de- 
gree may be %, l /\ or y$ of an inch, anything that you 
may want to call it. Adopt a rule of your own and go 
by it. If we have a man with a shoulder one degree 
extra slope — in this illustration I use y of an inch to 
each degree — the top line of shoulder and depth of scye 
line will be at points N, if two degrees slope, at point O, 
and if three degrees slope, at point P. If we have a 
square-shouldered man, one degree square will bring 
the breast line and top of shoulder line at point 1, two 
degrees at line 2, and three degrees at line 3. The length 
of waist will in all cases remain the same. Of course, 
as previously explained in long and short neck, or 
stooped and erect, where we have to take off from or 
add to the top of back, the length of waist will be longer 
or shorter, according to the variation made, whatever 
has been added to or taken off from the top of the back. 
The distance from A to C which is commonly known as 
depth of scye, may be gotten from an actual measure, 
taken either by the upper shoulder or the depth of scye 



measure, or the height division may be used so many 
degrees added or taken off, for high or low shoulder. 
The number of degrees of slope of shoulder above or 
below the normal, may be noted from observations of 
the client's attitude. I find in my long experience that 
the observation of the attitude and position, and the de- 
scription of the customer is a far better aid to the cut- 
ter than a lot of actual measures taken. Of course, if 
you have no fixed rule to go by, no proportions to fall 
back on, these descriptions of the attitude and position 
count for nothing, as the cutter will not know where to 
begin or end in making his variations. 

Point H is the normal blade and point J is the normal 
width of bacK. If we have a client with a prominent 
blade, point J and II will advance 1, 2 and 3 degrees as 
the case may be. One degree large blade would be at 
points 7, two degrees at points 8, and three degrees at 
points 9, and the front shoulder point will advance one- 
half of the increase of blade. The same thing if you 
have a client with a small blade. One degree smaller 
than normal will be at point 6, two degrees at point 5, 
and three degrees at point 4, and the shoulder point will 
recede one-half a degree from S to 6, one degree to 5, 
and another half degree from 5 to 4. When the 
shoulder point advances l / 2 degree it must be shortened 



i , 



4 degree, and when it recedes l / 2 degree, it must be 



lengthened J4 degree, hence the shoulder point should 
be shortened yi the amount that it has been advanced, 
and lengthened y 2 of the amount that it has receded 
from the normal point. These rules should he observed 
and followed, in connection with the actual measure- 
ments and proportions. 



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Coat and J 'est System 



95 



PLATE XLIII. 




7 
8 



M 



K* 



8 



n 



2 3 



H 



o 



1 




B 



96 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J 'est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XLIV. 
MAPPING ACCORDING TO PROPORTIONS AND DEGREES OF DEFORMATIONS. 



Diagram 2. 



Diagram 2 is for the stooped figure. Points 10, 11 
and 12 represent the normal back and points O and E 
represent the normal shoulder line, point E being the 
normal shoulder point. If we have a client with one 
degree stoop, raise the back as from 10 to 1 and 12 to 4 
J4 inch, which we call one degree. Go forward to 
point 1, Yi the distance that the back has been raised 
from 10 to 1 ; if two degrees raise back l / 2 inch as from 
10 to 2 and 12 to 5, and if three degrees raise back from 
10 to 3 and 12 to 6, three degrees, or yi inch. All these 
points are advanced ]A, of whatever the back has been 
raised. First draw line 20, 21. Then draw lines 18 
and 19 and 16 and 17, parallel with line 20, 21. 



The front shoulder is shortened in the same degree 
that the back has been raised. For one degree stooped 
lower shoulder Ya inch as from E to G and O to L. For 
two degrees stooped lower it ]A inch as from E to F 
and O to M. For three degrees lower it jkt inch, as from 
O to N and E to H ; advance front shoulder )A of the 
stoop. For one degree stoop the front shoulder point, 
with advance of Y& ; for two degrees Y\ and for three 
degrees Y& of an inch. For one degree the shoulder 
point will be where lines G and P cross. For two degrees 
where lines O and T cross and for three degrees where 
lines R and H cross, or line J, K. and the front center 
line will advance in the same proportion, as per line V,W. 



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Coat and Vest System 



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PLATE XLIV. 




98 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J'est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XLV. 



MAPPING ACCORDING TO PROPORTIONS AND DEGREES OF DEFORMATIONS. 

Diagram 3. 



Diagram 3 represents the erect form, the heavy lines 
10. 11 and 12 represent the normal back and the heavy 
line O, E represents the normal shoulder line. For one 
degree erect, come down 34 inch, as from 10 to 1 and 
12 to 4, and come ont at point 1, yi of the distance from 
10 to 1. For two degrees come down from 12 to 2 and 
O to 5 — y 2 inch, and for three degrees erect come down 
from to 6 and from 10 to 3. -)4 of an inch. Draw line 
20, 21 and then run lines 18, 19 and 16, 17 parallel with 
line 20, 21. 

Raise the front shoulder the same amount that the 
hack has been lowered. For one degree raise shoulder 
J4 inch, as from O to L and E to F; for two degrees 
raise y 2 inch, as from O to M and E to G, and three 
degrees raise % inch, as from O to N and E to H. 



In the stooped form the shoulder point has been low- 
ered and advanced. In the erect form the shoulder has 
been lengthened, and to the unexperienced, theoretical 
cutter, it would seem that the shoulder should recede, 
as on line J, K, thus locating the shoulder points on lines 
S. T. U, but this is a mistaken idea for the shoulder 
point must remain on the perpendicular line C, D, so, 
for one degree erect the shoulder point will be on where 
lines D and P cross. For two degrees where lines D 
ami O cross and for three degrees where lines D and 
R cross, and the front center line will fall on line V, X. 
The front shoulder point will only change, or move 
forward and back l / 2 of the variation in the size of 
blade, under or over the normal size. 



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Coat and Vest System 



99 



PLATE XLV. 



d y? 




100 



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Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XLVI. 



ATTITUDE. 



Every man assumes a certain attitude, normal, erect or 
stooped, according to the development of his body. If 
the man has weak lungs his chest falls in, his head goes 
forward and the blades will be large. We then have the 
forward attitude. If, on the other hand, the man's lungs 
are strong and healthy, his chest expands, his head goes 
back and the blades are smaller. In this case we have 
the erect attitude. 

Figure A represents the normal man where the line of 
gravity runs through the center of the body as from K 
through Z to J. It will be noted that the weight of the 
body is equally divided on each side of this line (the 
center of gravity) and the distance from A to C and 11 
to 10 is the same. 

In Figure B we have the stooped form where the chest 
is flat, head and shoulders forward and blades full, and 
the breast line E G has changed as per line 1-2 which has 
lengthened the back balance and shortened the front, 



making the distance from 24 to the neck greater in Fig- 
are B than in Figure A, point 11. Next we have the 
erect form Figure C, with full chests, head and shoulders 
back and blades smaller, which swings the breast line E 
G as per line 5-6, shortening the back at 6 and lengthen- 
ing the front as at 5, breast line, and throwing the back 
of neck closer to center line 35-36. The cross section of 
neck will now be on line 7-8. These are the attitudes of 
the upper position of the human body from the breast 
line up. In Figure B the stooped form from the center 
of gravity line has moved as from M to N and in Figure 
C the erect figure the center of gravity has moved as 
from R to S. Now if these changes have taken place in 
the upper part of the form, the lower portion of the man 
will assume its natural attitude to conform with upper 
portion, equally distributing the weight of the body on 
each side of the center of gravity, so when the chest is 
flat the seat will also be flat and when the chest is full 
the seat will be full, as will be explained in Diagram E. 



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Coat and Vest System 



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PLATE XLVI. 




102 



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Coat and J 'est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATES XLVII. AND XLVIII. 



FRONT AND BACK SCYE DEPTHS. 



Diagram A. 

The above heading fits this case to perfection. It is. 
however. 1 letter understood by most cutters as the depth 
of scye and strap measure. It makes no difference by 
what name these distances are called just so they are 
understood and the minds agree. The depth of scye 
regulates the back length from the arm scye, lowest po- 
sition up to neck bone. The strap measure, really the 
front scye depth, regulates the distance, from lowest po- 
sition of arm scye in front up to neck point at back. In 
Diagram A a study is put before you that has more 
meaning to it than words can express, representing a pro- 
portionate figure 36 breast, height 5 feet 8 inches, 15 
collar size and 17 inches arm scye circumference. The 
heavy black lines as from A to C and 1 to 2 are the nor- 
mal height of shoulders. A to C is the back scye depth, the 
front -eve depth being in equal balance with that of the 
back. Ssuare shoulders are indicated by a shortening 
of both back and front scye depth equally. Slope shoul- 
ders are evidenced by the lengthening of both back and 
front scye depths equally. 

In Diagram A notice the distance from A to C and 1 
to 2. Square shoulders are indicated by lines L N and 
M O. Slope shoulders are represented by lines P R and 
Q S. Arm scye, W V shows the position of sloping 
shoulders. T U represents the position of arm scye in 
the position of square shoulders. In describing the 
shoulder heights, degrees of deformation are used. A 
degree is one-quarter of an inch. As an illustration the 
shoulder height may be regular, or one. two or three de- 
grees slope, or one, two or three degrees square. Back 
and front scye depths regulate firstly, slope and square 
shoulders, that is. as their relation to the regular height 
of shoulders. The back and front lengths also regulate 
the positions of stoop and erect. The depth of scye in 
itself contains the entire contents of the back length, com- 
prising the shoulder height and stoop or erect. Equal 
back and front lengths determine shoulder heights. Un- 
equal back and front lengths determine stoop and erect. 

In order to cipher out each part the study of analogy 
must be considered, that is. the separating of each step, 
taking the distances as a while and analyzing their sub- 
stance. 

Diagram A 1. 

Represents a fundamental problem of the application 
of the back and front scye depths from a proportionate 
position. Take a piece of drafting paper, chalk and 



square. Square out and down from A. using a figure 5 

feet 8 inches tall and 36 breast, as a foundation and basis 

of calculation. 

A to C is shoulder height, 3^4 inches. 

C to B is Yz breast measure. 18 on Yi scale. 

A t<> waist line is 17 inches. 

Square out lines C to and B to D. 

B to D is L> breast, plus 2 l \ inches. 

D to E is y& breast, net 18 on l /% scale. 

Square down from D and up from E to L. 

B to H is y 2 breast with addition, 20 on l / 2 scale. 

F to G is % and '4 each way from H on addition. 

Square up from F and G. 

A to I is )/(, breast net. 

I to J is .'4" inch. 

K is l/ 2 inch out from construction line. 

L to M is T s breast, less T / ( inch. 

A I to N is clown 1 inch. 

Draw a line from N to K. 

Solid black lines represent the normal position. 

A to B is the depth of scye plus Y of an inch. 

F to N is front scye depth, both distances equal in their 

respective relations. 

In square shoulders the back and front scye depths, 
shorten equally as they also lengthen equally in slope 
shoulder types. 

Lines X and W, and 2. shoulder height point Y, have 
been raised, that is. the depth of scye and strap lengths 
shortened equally Y> inch in this case. 

L to P is advanced Y? of the amount of square shoul- 
ders, in this case y 2 inch square advance Y inch. This 
advances neck point as from N to O. Always advance 
neck point ' 2 of the amount of square shoulders. This 
is done to provide for the extra amount of freedom re- 
quired over the shoulder bones. In the slope shoulder 
type the neck point remains on the proportionate line 
M X because in slope shoulders no extra amount of room 
is required over the shoulder bones, and it is also true 
that no less ease is required. Therefore, as O'Connel! 
remarked, "stand pat." 

Lines R to S, I'. X, T. V, represent slope shoulder 
lengths. 

Now study this carefully and reason this subject out. 
anil vmi will find more food for solid thought than what- 
ever could have been written. Compare this illustration 
A — 1 to Diagram A, and you will conceive its merits and 
practical sense. 



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Coat and Vest System 



103 



PLATE XLVII. 




PLATE XLVIII. 




104 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATES XLIX. AND L. 



ATTITUDES. 



Theories of Stooping Figure. 

Diagram B. 

The first thing to note in the stooping figure is the 
length governing that particular attitude or position. 
First, in carefully looking over Diagram B we see by 
this particular illustration that the shoulder height is 
regular. Second, note the extra length gained in back 
and the shortening of the front length. Then the re- 
quirements of the stooping figure must be the lengthen- 
ing of the back scye depth and the shortening of the 
front scye depth, i. e., the front scye depth shortens the 
same amount the back scye depth lengthens. It is quite 
possible that a person may have regular height of shoul- 
ders and be stooped, also the shoulders may be either 
square or slope and be stooped. We know for a cer- 
tainty that it is impossible for the shoulder to be square 
and slope, also it is impossible for a figure to be stooped 
and erect, that is, as far as their respective relation and 
definitions are concerned. Note carefully in Diagram B 
the position of the arrow lines, also the shaded portion of 
the body. In a stooping figure the body inclines forward 
and downward as to the front length, and forward and 
upward as to the back length as indicated by comparing 



line C, A, N, B regular, with line G, F, O, Q, P, to B. 
Also compare lines P, Q, N, O, R, S, H, I, f, U, D, E, 
J, K, to L M. 

This illustration affords a good comparison, and you 
will do well to study the different lengths, the values and 
comparisons. 

Erect Figure. 

Diagram C. 

The reverse might be said of the erect figure, compar- 
ing it with the stooping figure. The back length gets 
short and the front length gets long. It will be readily 
noted that the front scye depth lengthens the same 
amount the back scye depth shortens. It is equally true 
in this illustration that the shoulder height is regular, 
this figure simply being erect. Compare arrow lines 1, 
3, 6, 8 and 16. Erect position to arrow line 2, 5, 7, 16, 
the regular position. Note the increase in front length 
as shaded, erect position, to arrow line 2, 5, 7, 16, the 
regular position 11, 14. Note the shortening of back 
length as from 4 to 3, 5 to 6, 7 to 8. This illustration 
affords a splendid comparison, and a great deal will be 
learned by a careful survey. 



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Coat and Vest System 



105 



PLATE XLIX. 



PLATE L. 





106 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Stone's Advanced 



EXPLANATION OF PLATES LI. AND LII. 



LARGE AND SMALL BLADES.— BLADE MEASURE. 



Diagram D. 

A glance will almost suffice the experienced cutter and 
tailor as to the exact meaning of this subject. The illus- 
trated figure represents a normal figure five feet eight 
inches tall, thirty-six breast circumference. The straight 
shaded portion represents the section of the body affect- 
ing the position of the arm on the body, determining large 
and small blades. In the regular form the widths are 
divided into sixteen equal parts, that is eight parts of 
each one-half of the body. As in a draft, only one-half 
of the body is used ; light parts are used as a working 
basis. The one-half of the body is then divided as fol- 
lows : Three parts for the back, two parts for the arm 
scye and three parts for the front, making eight parts 

PLATE LI. 




in all. Shaded portions as 2 to 4, 3 to 58, 4 to 6, 5 to 7, 
7 to 9, 6 to 8, 8 to B, 9 to A, A to 11, B to 10, 10 to 12, 
14 and 16, 11 to 13, 15 to 17. 

Heavy arm scye portion A, B, G and H represents the 
arm scye in a normal position, being two parts, leaving 
three equal parts for the breast and three equal parts for 
the back. The blade measure for a regular thirty-six 
breast figure according to proportion 11 inches. When- 
ever the blade is more than regular, large blades are in- 
dicated ; when less, small blades are indicated. The dot- 
ted arm scye lines represent the arm in a forward and 
backward position showing large and small blades. The 
front of arm in regular will be as represented by line 10 ; 
G to 11. Large blades by line I to 19 and small blades 
by line K to 18. Now continue to diagram D 1 showing 
this principle on a drafted pattern. 



APPLICATION OF THE BLADE MEASURE. 
Diagram D 1. 

Square out and down from A, using 36 inches breast 
measure with a height of 5 feet 8 inches. 

Depth of scye 9 inches, blade 11 inches. 

A to B is depth of scye, 9 inches. 

B to C is down Y\ of 1 inch. 

C to D is up Yi of breast (18 on Yi breast). 

Square out line D-B and C. 

Natural waist length. 17 inches as at 40. 

Prove this by proportions by going down from A to D 
Z l / 2 units of height, in this case 3^4 inches, and from 
D to C should be Yi breast. This gives a regular 
height of shoulder, showing neither square nor slope 
shoulders. 

C to E is 34 breast plus 234 inches. 

E to F is back % breast. 

Square down from E and up from F to G. 

G to H is yi breast less 34 inch. 

C to K is 34 breast with addition (20 on 34 scale). 

K to L is Y& breast with addition (20 on 34 scale). 

K to M is 34 breast with addition (20 on 34 scale). 
In further explanation of the foregoing, place 20 on 

34 scale at C, mark point K ; this locates center of pat- 



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Coat and Vest System 



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PLATE LII. 




tern arm scye. Then place 20 on l /§ scale on point K. 
Mark point L. Leaving square in this position, mark 
20 on '4 scale as at point M. This gives the proportion 
position, three equal parts for the back, two equal parts 
for the arm scye and three equal parts for the breast 
width. Square up from points L and M. 

J is 1 inch down from II , this being the normal posi- 
tion of neck point, the blades of course being neither 
large nor small. 

To determine the proportionate blade measure, deduct 
\Yi inches from L to arrow point X, this is seam allow- 
ance and amount taken out between back and forepart, 
side seam. 

Then to apply blade measure, in this case 11 inches, 
measure in from C to arrow point X and add lyi inches 
from X to L. Apply your proportions and determine the 
relative position of the actual short measure, and the 
proportions. 



Sweep from point J by point N as to O to P, this 
keeps the strap the same length for either large or small 
blades ; taking for granted that in this case large and 
small blades are the only irregularities. Whenever the 
blades exceed the proportions as illustrated by short lines 
from points 31 to 30, in this case 3 degrees, Y\ inch for 
each degree, large blades are indicated. G to Q is ad- 
vanced y 2 the amount of large blades. Q to S is the 
same as G to H, this advances neck point ]A amount of 
large blades. V is neck point for 3 degrees, large blades. 
The distance from N to V is the same as from N to J. 

In small blades the reverse is said ; recede as from 
31 to 32 and 33 to 35, as the comparison of the actual 
blade measure and proportions determines. The neck 
points as from G to R and H to T are receded ' _> amount 
of small blades. The distances from N to J, N to V and 
X to U is the same, the front depth of scye (strap meas- 
ure) has not increased nor has it decreased. 



108 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LIII. 



BACKWARD AND FORWARD ATTITUDES. 



Diagram E. 



This most clearly explains what is called attitude. By 
this expression is meant the position of the body, com- 
pared to the regular correct manner of standing. 

Diagram E is the regular form, perfect in every re- 
spect as to position and form. Diagram E 1 represents 
attitude forwards, as indicated by broken lines. The 
lower part of the body is carried forward, and the meth- 
od of determining this position is in most cases approx- 
imated, but can be measured by a balance measure. This 
type of man rests the weight of his body on the vital 
organs, such as the stomach, kidney and liver, crowding 
both the small and large intestines. 

Diagram E 1. Note and compare the compound dot- 
ted broken lines to the heavy solid black lines. Points 1, 
2, 4, 6, 7 and D are the regular points. D to F show 
the center balance line as A to B or diagram E advanced 
from D to F. Points 3, 5, F and 8 illustrate the at- 
titude forward position. 



Diagram E 2 represents the reverse attitude back- 
wards. Center line G, H has been receded as from H to 
J. This places the lower part of the body backwards, as 
shown by dotted lines 9, 10, 13, 14 and 16. 

Points 14, 15, 11, 12 are the regular normal positions. 
Compare these three figures carefully and you will see 
that the distance from 6 to 8 in diagram E 1 gets long in 
figure of attitude forwards and shortens in figures of 
attitude backwards, as illustrated in diagram E 2, arrow 
points 14 to M. 

The positions of attitudes forward and backward arc 
often mistaken for stoop and erect, this confusing many 
cutters as to the balance of their garments. It must be 
brought to mind that attitudes must be treated separately 
from stoop and erect. It is also true, as some will argue, 
that a figure might be stooped and also attitude forward, 
or erect and attitude backward. These are practical 
facts, and unless both are treated separately, their com- 
bined results are not as satisfactory as one should de- 
sire. 



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Coat and Vest System 



109 



PLATE LIII. 




110 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J 7 est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LIV. 



BACKWARD AND FORWARD ATTITUDES. 
Their Application in Drafting. 



Diagram E 3. 



Diagram E 3 represents the draft, showing the 
changes that are necessary for the attitudes. These 
changes are made by degrees, a degree being l /± of 1 inch, 
three degrees being as great a change as made in any 
one direction. 

Square out and down from A. 
A to 2 is depth of scye 9 inches plus % of 1 inch. 
2 to 1 is up Yz breast 18 or l /s scale, 36 breast. 
A to N is natural waist line, 17 inches. 
A to 17 is seat line, full length 32 to point 3. 
2 to 26 is y 2 breast, plus 2^4 inches. 

31 is back Vg breast net from point 26. 

2 to 40, arrow point, is l / 2 breast with addition. 

34 and 27 are % and y breast each way from 40 with 

addition. 
Square down from 26 and up from 31 to 32. 

32 to 33 is y s breast less y inch. 

33 to 35 is 1 inch. 

A to 36 is l /(, breast net and up y of an inch. 

37 is y 2 inch from construction line. 

Draw a line from 1 to 34. Draw a line parallel ]/ 2 inch 

down as from O to P. 
B is out 34 mcn from construction line. B to C is 1 inch. 
Draw a line from 35 to 1 and 35 to O. 
Make the distance from 35 to 38 ->x inch less than the 

distance from 36 to 37. 
Shape arm scye as represented. 
Square down from 27 to 5 arrow point. 
One inch is taken out at waist line and 2->4 inches is 

added for spring, as from 20 to 28. 
Points 26, 23 to arrow point 7, is regular front balance 

line. 



Measure the distance from B to 5. Apply this distance 
from C to F. 

Sweep from F to X, add 1 inch to 7, using neck point 
35 as pivot. 

Shape regular normal draft as per heavy solid black 
lines. 

The attitude changes are as follows : 

For three degrees attitude forward advance back on 
seat line y of 1 inch as from 17 to 19-20 to 22, keep- 
ing points 2 and 27 stationary. 

Reduce spring y of an inch as from 28 to 30 and 23 to 
25. keeping point 26 stationary. 

Points 3 to 4, 5 to 6 F to 13 and 7 to 8 show the bal- 
ance line advanced for attitude forwards, the thin 
lines show each degree. 

For attitude forward raise seam of forepart C to D l / 2 
of the amount of attitude forward. 

Reshape arm scye as dotted lines indicate. The amount 
raised at D is shortened as from F to 13. 

The reverse is said of attitude backward, recede on seat 
line as from 17 to 18, 20 to 21, 28 to 29 and 23 to 24, 
y of an inch for each degree of attitude backward. 

Points 3 to 11, 5 to 10, F to 14 and 7 to 9 illustrate three 
degrees of attitude backward. 

Lower top of side seam of forepart *4 of the amount of 
attitude backward, as from I to E ^ of an inch for 
three degrees of attitude backward. 

Lengthen the side seam of forepart, same amount as 
lowered as from F to 14. 

Reshape pattern and the proper changes are made. By 
a careful study of this diagram many bright and prac- 
tical points can be called to mind. 



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PLATE LIV. 




112 



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Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LV. 



LARGE AND SMALL WAIST. 



Diagram F. 



Diagram F represents the natural increase of fat and 
the loss of flesh for small waist. First taking the fat 
increase, it will be well to mention the classification of 
the heavy form. Three divisions are made of this type: 

First — Stout forms. 
Second — Fat forms. 
Third — Corpulent forms. 

This is done more as a working basis than for any 
other purpose. The stout form will measure two inches 
fat according to the general rule, the rule in general be- 
ing the waist four inches less than the breast for regular 
forms. Whenever the waist is more than fat is indi- 
cated. 

Regular forms, 36 breast, 32 waist, 37 seat. 

Regular forms. 38 breast, 34 waist, 39 seat. 

Regular forms, 40 breast, 36 waist, 41 seat, and so on. 

In the stout types, say 40 breast, the waist will be 38, 
showing two inches of fat. This is called stout, as the 
waist simply gets heavv, no particular prominence in 
front is visible. 



The second form is called fat. that is, where the waist 
is the same size as that of the breast — as 42 breast, 42 
waist, 43 seat, etc. 

The third form, called corpulent, is where the waist 
exceeds that of the breast, as 42 breast, 44 waist, 43 seat, 
etc. In this case we are going to deal with the fat and 
corpulent types. In diagram F notice the increase of fat 
as from B to C, D to E and at 2, and to F in front. The 
waist filling in as from solid black line to GandH. This 
lilling in of fat around the waist in fat and corpulent 
types gives that particular form an erect position and ap- 
parently a flat seat. This, however, may not be the case. 
For small waist the front as at B to 1 is reduced and the 
waist decreases as from solid black line to 3 and to 4. In 
the corpulent form the figure inclines a trifle erect, this 
position being necessary to counter-balance the extra 
amount of fat or front. This position can be felt by 
placing a heavy weight on a rope hanging around your 
neck. Place the weight at your waist in front and it 
forces your body into an erect attitude. This test will 
give you the position. 



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PLATE LV. 




114 



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Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LVI. 



CORPULENT FORM. 



Drafted by Short Measure. 



Diagram F 1. 

Diagram F 1 represents the draft in further explana- 
tion of diagram F in part only. By carefully comparing 
both diagram F and diagram F 1 the relative position is 
seen at once, still much can be learned by an honest re- 
search. 

The following measures are used to produce the fol- 
lowing draft : 

Breast, 40; waist. 42; seat, 41. 

Strap, 12^4 ; over shoulder, 18; closing, 1334. 

Depth of scye, 9-J4 ; blade, 1234 ; height, 5 feet 8. 

Description : regular corpulent form. 
Square out and down from A. 
A to B is depth of scye, 9y inches. 
B to C is down J4 of an inch. 
A to E is natural waist length, 17 inches. 
A to F is seat length, 25 }4 inches. 
G is full length of coat, 32 inches. 
Square out lines D, B, C, E, F and G. 
G to 29 and E to 32 is l / 2 inch. 
Shape center back seam from D to 32 to 29. 
33 to H is ]/ 2 breast plus 2%. inches. 
H to I is back y breast. 
Square down from H and up from I to N. 

Breast 40 and the waist 42 gives a figure 6 inches fat. 
The regular waist to the breast would be 36, 4 inches less 
than breast. In this case the waist measures 42, making 
6 inches of fat. As a man does not get fat all in one 
place, the extra cloth allowance must be distributed ac- 
cording to the positions of the fat accumulation. 

The rule: Two-thirds of y 2 of the entire amount of 
fat is added on front. The remaining l / 3 is added at side 
seam. In this case 6 inches fat, 3% of 6 is 3 — % of 3 
equal 2 inches. This amount is added on front at waist 
line as from 6 to 7. 

6 is \y 2 inches down from 5, natural waist line. 
Square down from 7 to 27. 
H to 4 is }i inch. % of an inch added on front for every 

inch of fat added on front waist line. 



N to O is y> inch, i. e. 34 of an inch for every inch of 
fat added on front. This lengthens the front, balance, 
corresponding with the natural position a corpulent 
figure assumes, when the waist exceeds that of the 
breast. 

O to P is y& breast less 34 inch. 

A to 28 is y, breast net. 28 to 2 is up y inch. 

C to arrow point is net blade measure, 12J4 inches at 
point J. J to K is 1 34 inch added. K to L is back J4 
breast addition (22 on 34 scale). 

To prove the blade measure apply the proportions. C to 
M is y> breast with addition 22 on y 2 scale. 

M to K is y breast addition. If these points register the 
blades are regular. In this case the blades are regu- 
lar. 

Square up and down from K. 

L to 17 is back y inch. Square down to 11. 

Draw a line from D to K. 

Draw a line y 2 inch down parallel with D, K. 

Y to Z is 1 inch. Add a seam 34 inch. 

3 is 34 mc h ou t from construction line. 

Draw a line from 2 to 3. 

Apply strap measure from 1 to 2. 

Place this amount at 3 and measure up to neck point Q 
12% inches. 

Draw a line from Q to 3, also a line from to D. Apply 
over shoulder from W to X and S to T. Apply clos- 
ing measure from 34 to Z from Y to 3, placing this 
amount at S, continue up to V. 

Q to V is y& less than from 2 to 3. 

Point 9 is 1 inch from 10 normal position, but as one was 
left for fat addition, this was added on from 9 to 10. 

13 to 14 is 2?4 inches. 

Shape front from to 4, to 7 and in seat point at 8. 

Measure the distance from Y to 11 and apply this amount 
from Z to 12. Sweep and add 1 inch as at point 30, 
normal line, arrow points 30 and 31. 

Place pocket by going down ^4 of inside sleeve length, 
cut pattern through from 15 to 18 and to 20. 

Open up cut from 18 to 19, y of amount of fat added 
on front by pleating pattern at 21. Add seam as from 
15 to 18 and 16 to 19. Reshape and cut cloth. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



115 



PLATE LVI. 




116 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LVII. 



SMALL WAISTED FORM. 



Small Waist, Large and Small Seat. 
Diagram F 2. 



Next in order are the changes made necessary for small 
waist, large and small seat. A careful study of anatomy 
will assist the student a great deal to better understand 
the action of the assimilating organs. This draft is pro- 
duced by the following measures : 

Breast, 36 ; waist, 28 ; seat, 36. 

Depth of scye, 9; strap, 12; over shoulder, 16y 2 . 

Closing, \2y 2 ; blade, 11 ; height, 5 feet 8. 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is depth of scye, 9 inches. 

B to C is down ^ of an inch. 

A to E is natural waist length, 17 inches. 

F is seat length, 25*4 inches. G, full length. 

Square out lines D, B, C, E, F and G. 

G to 9 — E to 31 is y 2 inch regular. 

Shape back as from D to 31 to 9, this is the normal posi- 
tion. 

5 to H is y 2 breast measure plus 2J4 inches. 

H to I is back y& breast, square down from H to 17-18 
and square up from I to J. 

J to K is back y% breast less 34 mcn - 

A to N is y> breast net, N to O is y, inch. 

Apply blade measure from C to O. 11 inches, and add \y 2 
inches to R. 

R to S is y, breast addition (20 on y, scale). 

Square up from E and S. 

Apply strap measure from A to and from 4 to L — 12 
inches. 

P is y 2 inch out from construction line. 

Draw a line from L to D and from L to construction 
line at P. 

Draw a line from D to R. 

U to T is y 2 inch down parallel with line D, R. 



Apply over shoulder from 5 to 6 and from 4 to 7. 

The distance from L to M is }i inch less than the dis- 
tance from O to P. 

T to V is 1 inch regular arm without under arm cut. 

11 to 13 is 1 inch regular. 

40 to 24 is iy inches regular allowance for proportionate 
seat. 

Measure the distance from T to 21 and apply this dis- 
tance from V to 36, sweep back by neck point L to 17 
and add 1 inch to 18 for front length. 

Add \y 2 inch for button stand or front. 

L to 22 is y% breast less y> inch. 

22 to 23 is 3 inches. 

For small waist reduce the front at 19 one-eighth of an 
inch for each inch of small waist, shaping the front as 
from 14 to 16. 19 to 20. 

Reduce center seam at back as from 31 to \0 l /s, of an inch 
for every inch of small waist. Add y 2 inch as from V 
to 8 for two seams allowance in arm scye for under 
arm cut as from V to W. Shape as per dotted lines 
T to 3. 

Take out remaining amount as from 11 to 12. If a full 
breast is desired, leave arm scye regular as at U, and 
take out shoulder V as from Y to X, or take out V as 
from Z to 1, stretch the top of pocket as at 2 and full 
or as at 3. If necessary, all these v's can be taken out 
at once, but this is, however, rare. The seat will in- 
crease y& of an inch for every inch increase over regu- 
lar, as from 24 to 25 and 27. 

Reduce the seat y inch for every inch the seat is smaller 
than regular, as from 24 to 29 to 28 to 30. If neces- 
sary for large seat add at side seam of back from 40 
to 35 one-half the amount of extra cloth that will be 
required. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



117 



PLATE LVII. 




118 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATES LVIII. AND LIX. 



ONE SHOULDER LOW. 



Diagram G represent? a figure with the right shoulder 
1/4 of an inch lower than the left shoulder. By compar- 
ing the left side lines A, N, C, D and E F, to right side 
line A, M, C, J, E, L, it will be readily seen that the right 
side is more sloped than the left side. A figure where 
one side is lower than the other requires a compound 
change, as is illustrated by diagram G 1. On diagram G 
notice the difference between the regular angle from I to 
l\, and K to L, compared to slope shoulder angle as from 
J to L. 

A figure where one shoulder is lower than the other 
can be analyzed as follows, comparing one side to the 
other as the right shoulder (low side), is sloped, compar- 
ing this side to the left side. To further illustrate this 
change see diagram G 1. 

PLATE LVIII. 




Diagram G 1. 

This diagram represents the draft for both sides of the 
In iily opened up, showing the scientific change necessary 
for the low side. In this diagram the fundamental prin- 
ciple is dealt with and as we proceed the practical appli- 
cation will be thoroughly discussed. This draft is made 
fn mi the following measures : 

Breast, 36; height, 5 feet 8 inches. 

Right shoulder ^4 inch low. 
Square out and down from A. 
Section 2 of diagram G 1 represents the high side, in this 

case the left side. 
Section 3 of diagram G 1 represents the right, or low 

side. 

Section 2 of Diagram G 1. 

A to C is 3}i inches. C to D is 34 breast. 

Locate natural waist line, also seat line at B. 

Square out lines C, D, G and 4. 

D to E is l / 2 breast plus 234 inches. 

E to F is l /% breast net. Square up to G. 

G to H is Y& breast less 34 inch. H to J is down 1 inch. 

A to N is yi breast net. N to O is 24 inch. 

D to K is Y* breast addition. 

K to L and K to M is 34 and 34 breast each way from K 

with addition. 
Square up from L to M. Square down from M. 
Draw a line from O to P. 
Draw a line from C to L. 
Draw a line from I to C and to P. 
I to J is Y% of an inch less than the distance O to P. 
Q to R is y> inch down parallel with line C, L. 
Q to R is 1 inch. S to T is 1 inch. 
U to V is 2% inches. 
I to Z is 34 breast less 34 inch. 
Z to 30 is 3 inches. W to E and X to Y is button stand 

134 inch. 
Shape as illustrated. 

In this section it is taken for granted that the left 
shoulder height is regular, neither square nor slope. This 
affords a more easy or primary method of calculation, 
given a basis to work from, a good starting point. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J 7 est System 



119 



PLATE LIX. 




Section 3 of Diagram G 1. 

This section represents the low or right side, and as 

before mentioned nothing more than a slope shoulder 

can be compared to the high side. 

Square out and down from A, carrying across top bal- 
ance line G, H, 28, A, 29, 12 to 11. 

A to C is high shoulder. C to 1 is down Y of an inch 
amount shoulder is low. 

1 to 2 is down Ys breast. This lowers arm scye as from 
D to 2, Y\ inch f° r l° w side. Natural waist line and 
seat line remain as regular. 

Square out lines 1, 2 and continue waist and seat lines 

across. 
Continue draft, in the same manner as the left or high 

side, as follows: 

2 to 6 is Y* breast, plus 2}4 inches. 6 to 7 is % breast 
net. 

Square up from 7 and down from 6. 



li 



inch 



2 to 8 is Y* breast addition. 9 to 10 are Y& and 
addition each way from 8. 

Square up 9 and 10 and down from 10 to 23. 

A to 14 is % breast net, up Y inch to 15. 

Draw a line from 15 to 16 and a line from 1 to 9. 18 to 
19 is 1 inch. 

21 to 22 is 1 inch. 23 to 24 is 2% inches. 

15 to 16 is Y& ' ncn more than from 13 to 17. 

4 to 12 is Ys breast, less Y inch. 12 to 13 is 1 inch. 

13 to 20 is Y breast, less Y> inch. 

20 to 31 is 3 inches. Add button stand 6 to 25 and 26 to 

• 27. Shape as shown by diagram. Cut both patterns, 
leaving them joined at the cross line and the side seams 
points 37 and 38, then fold on center line, A, B to 3. 
Now very carefully study the change in its fundamen- 
tal stage and note the difference and the general re- 
quirements. This is continued to the regular practical 
application in another diagram. 



120 



EXPLANATION OF PLATES LX AND LXI. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J 'est System 



SHORT MEASURES. 

How to Take Them and Their Applications In Drafting. 



There are live prominent and important short meas- 
ures to he taken, namely, Depth of Scye, Strap, Over- 
shoulder, Closing and Blade measures. The depth of 
scye is taken from the neck or socket bone down to a 
horizontal line drawn across the back under the arms. 
The strap is taken from a point at front of arm scye up 
over the shoulder to neck-bone. The over-shoulder 
measure is taken from a point in front of arm scye up 
over the shoulder, then down to the depth of scye point. 
The closing measure is taken from a point in front of 
arm scye up over and around arm scye, down to a point 
at bottom of arm scye at the back. The blade measure 
is taken from a point in front of arm scye under the 
arm, across the back to a point in center of back depth 
of scye point. These five measures taken together and 
compared with each other, will determine the position of 
the body from the bottom of the arm scyes up, regulat- 
ing square and slope shoulders, stoop and erect, large 
and small blades, the different combinations of forms. 
The measures can be taken correctly, with the aid of a 
measuring square device from point to point, first locat- 
ing each point as accurately as science will permit. It is 
easily seen that by exercising care a reliable measure can 
be taken. The difficulty is not so much in taking the 
measures as in their application. All measures must be 
analyzed in order to determine the true value. In order 
to analyze a measure it is absolutely necessary to un- 
derstand proportions, in all its forms such as simple, 
compound, complex and mixed proportions. Degrees 
of deformation, descriptive disproportions and anatomy 
can not be ignored. 

Diagram 1. 

Diagram 1 represents the application of the depth of 
scye. The draft is produced from a 36 breast, height 5 

PLATE LX. 



feet 8 inches ; depth of scye, 9 inches. The depth of 
scye regulates the distance from A, neck bone, to B, bot- 
tom of arm scye. Depth of scye determines slope and 
also muscular back. Depth of scye is composed of 
shoulder height as from A to K and arm scye circum- 
ference as from K to B. Depth of scye will increase 
and decrease for both height and width. Depth of scye 
regulates the back length from arm scyes up to the necK 
bone. Height of collar is not a part of the depth of 
scye. That is long and short neck. Apply the depth of 
square shoulders, and in part determines stoop and 
erect. As the depth of scye passes down the spine in 
its course it is also influenced by large and small blades 
i. e., as follows: A to B is depth of scye 9 inches, and 
B to C is down }i of an inch. C to K is up ^ of 
breast (36 breast 18 on J/3 scale.) The distance from A to 
K is height of shoulder, and the distance from K to B 
is arm scye circumference. The blade is reduced Y\ of 
an inch as from G to H and E to F. The shaded part 
of back is the depth of scye. The shaded portion of the 
front is equal to that of the back. I to J is 1 inch, nor- 
mal position. 

Diagram 2. 

Diagram 2 represents the application of the strap 
measure. The strap measure regulates the front length, 
the same as the depth of scye regulates the back length. 

PLATE LXI. 




Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



121 



EXPLANATION OF PLATES LXII AND LXIII. 



The strap measure might easily be termed the front scye 
depth. The depth of scye and strap measures are com- 
pared to each other in order to determine the amount of 
slope and square shoulders, stoop and erect. When the 
depth of scye and the strap measures increase equally, 
slope shoulders are indicated. The strap measure is ap- 
plied by measuring the distance from E to D, placing 
that amount at A and measuring to B. The back, C-B 
is placed on front shoulder to fully illustrate the strap 
measure, 12 inches in this case. 

Diagram 3. 

Diagram 3 illustrates the application of the over 
shoulder measure. The over shoulder measure regu- 

PLATE LXII. 



Diagram 4. 

Diagram 4 represents both the closing and blade meas- 
ures. The closing measure determines the muscle de- 
velopment around the arm scye. This measure is ap- 
plied by measuring the distance on the pattern from N 
to O, placing this amount at T, continuing up to U, plac- 
ing this amount at P, continuing around arm scye to Q. 
To more clearly illustrate this measure the back is placed 
on top of front shoulder and the closing measure is con- 
tinued in one run, by first measuring the distance from 
N to O, placing this at P, and continue to Q-R to S. 



PLATE LXIII. 




lates the distance from R over the shoulder to P down 
to Q. The purpose of the over shoulder is to regulate 
the bone and muscle development on the pattern. Width 
or more properly speaking, flesh development (muscles 
and fat) influences the over shoulder measure to a great 
extent. Height, also, will increase or decrease this 
measure. 



Blade Measure. 
The blade measure determines large and small blades, 
also over and under developed back muscles. The blade 
measure has nothing to do with height, vice versa height 
has no influence on the blade measure. Apply the blade 
measure on the pattern as illustrated by tape, measure 
from V outside construction line to W arrow point, 11 
inches. Add lj^ inches to X front line of arm scye. 



122 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LXIV. 



Three Button Sack. 
Short Measure Method. 



The draft is produced by the short measure method 
from the following measures: 

Depth of scye 934 Overshoulder 1734 

Natural waist length. 17 Blade 11*4 

To hip 2Sy 2 Breast 3734 



Full length . 
Strap 



.28 Waist 33j/ 2 

.12 Hip 3834 



TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is depth of scye, 9% inches. 

B to C is }i inch. 

C to D is y, breast. 

A to 23 is 17. to 24 is 25j4 and to 25 is 28 inches. 

Square lines D, B, C, 23, 24 and 25. 

C to E is blade measure, 1134 inches, and E to F is \ x /. 

inch. 
F to G is 34 breast. 
G to I is y 2 inch. 
Square down from 1 to 15. 
A to is yi and O to R is y 4 inch. 
P to T is 54 inch. 
Draw a line from D to F. 



23 to 3 is y 2 and 24 to 4 is y 2 inch. 

1 to 2 is y 2 inch and 5 to 6 is 34 inch. 
X to Y is 3y inches. 

2 to 7 is the same as 1 to 15. 

C to K is J4 of breast measure and K to J is 1% inch. 

J to M is 34 inch less than 34 breast. 

Square up from M to N. 

J to 11 and 9 to 10 is I34 inch. 

Apply strap measure from 14 to 16, and deduct width of 
top of back as from 16 to N, then draw a line from N 
to D and from N to P. 

Apply over shoulder measure from 12 to 13, place this 
at 14 and measure up to 15, the net over shoulder. 

N to S is ^4 inch less than R to T, and the closing of 
shoulder point will be at point S. 

N to O is 1-12 breast. 

Draw a line from R through O to W. 

O to W is 34 breast. 

Sweep from 7 for point 8 by shoulder point N. 

The collar is drafted in the usual manner. The length 
of the roll is 4^4 inches, and there is 5^4 inches be- 
tween the buttons. 

The width of lapel and collar at notch is 1 T 4 inch. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



123 



PLATE LXIV. 




124 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LXV. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



THREE BUTTON FROCK FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE. 

BY THE SHORT MEASURE METHOD. 



The draft is produced from the following measures: 

Strap 15 Fashionable waist. . . . Y> 

Over shoulder 20 Full length 38 

Closing measure 16 Breast 46 

Blade 14 Waist 48 

Depth of scye 10*4 Hip 50 

To natural waist 17 ' .. Seat . . . . 47 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is depth of scye. to D natural, to E fashionable 

length of waist, and to F full length of coat. 
B to C is 24 inch. 

Square out lines B, C, D, E and F. 
B to G is blade measure and G to H is iy inch for 

seams. 
H to K is l 4 breast and K to line J is Vi of width of 

back. 
Square lines J, L and II. 
L is half way between J and T. 
Square down from L to M. 
) to N is l / 3 breast. 

A to W is % breast and W to X is 24 inch. 
N to 1 is 2*4 inches. 
1 to 2 is l /i inch. 
D to 9 is % inch. 

9 to 10 is 2^g inches. 

10 to 7 is 24 inch. 

L to 5 is 1 inch. M to 3 is 1 T 4 inch and 3 to 4 is 1% inch. 
C to P is y 2 breast measure and P to Q is 2 1 t inches. 
Q to R is y$ breast. 
Square up from R to S and square down from Q to 12. 

In the proportionate form the waist is four inches less 
than the breast. In this instance the waist is two inches 
more than breast ; hence there is six inches of extra fat 
that has to be added to waist. In a normal coat it calls 
for 24 inch suppression between the back and side body 
from 7 to 10. and 1' 4 inches between the side body and 
forepart 3 to 4: The normal front center line will run 
from S through Q to 12, as per broken line. Having 
found the extra fat to be 6 inches, I use only half of this 
amount, as only half the garment is drafted, and add 
Yi of the fat in front and y 3 in the side as follows : 
Y to Z is 2 inches, 2 A of fat. 3 to 6 is % of an inch, 
and 7 to 8 is y of an inch, which makes it y of fat. 
For every inch of fat added to the front of waist, re- 
cede y of an inch at S. So S to T in this case is y 
inch. Draw a line from T to y of an inch forward at 



down to Z, and square down from Z to 13 for front 
of coat. 

T to U is y& breast. Square down from U. 

Measure width of top of back from A to X, place this 
amount at II and measure up to Y(net strap measure), 
and draw a line from Y to N. Apply over shoulder 
measure by measuring distance from B to 29, place 
this amount at H and come up to 30 (net over-shoulder 
measure). Then apply closing measure from K to 2, 

1 to 33 ; place this at H and measure up to 32 (net 
closing measure). 

I to 31 is Ye breast. N to 33 is y A inch. 
V to 32 is Y% inch less than X to 33. 

Draw a line from 24 through 26 to 25, and draw a line 
from 25 through 13 to 23. 

II is 2^ inch below waist line, running up to waist line at 
14. 

Sweep from 11 to 12 and 13 by V (shoulder point). 
15 is y inch below side body. 

Draw a line from 15 to point 12, where sweep crosses 
the natural front center line, which will be the run of 
the skirt. 
Hollow forepart }4 inch above construction line at 16. 

y$ the amount of fat added to the front is taken out of 
forepart in a V at waist on a line half way between 
points 1 and Q. 

Draw a line from the V to where the sweep line crosses 
the fat line at 13. The distance from 12 to 13 is cut out. 

Apply the hip measure from 13 to 15, deducting the V 
from 14 to 11 and width of back from 10 to 9, one- 
half for hip measure and two inches for seam. This 
measure will determine the amount of spring needed 
over the hip at points 11, 14 and 15. Point 35 is half 
way between 34 and 12. Square back from 35 to 18. 
Make a point as at 16 and 17, and measure forepart 
and side body from 16 to 15, 14 to 11. and make skirt 
the same amount from 17 to 18. 

10 to 19 is 824 inches (half of the natural waist length), 

19 to 20 is y 2 inch and 20 to 21 is 24 inch, which is Y% 
inch added for every inch of extra seat, which in 
this case is 2 inches over normal. Shape spring from 
18 through 21. 

Shape top of skirt, coming up over the construction line 
y inch. 

Measure forepart from 16 to 13 and make skirt the same 
amount from 17 to the front edge. 

18 to 22 is the same as E to F, and 12 to 23 is the same 
as 18 to 22. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



125 



PLATE LXV. 




126 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LXVI. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



DOUBLE BEASTED FROCK FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE. 



BY THE SHORT MEASURE METHOD. 



This coat has a full bell skirt, and is for a corpulent 
figure, measuring as follows : 

Strap 15 Fashionable waist. . . . 19 

Overshoulder 21 Full length of coat. . .40 

Closing measure 16 Breast 46 

Blade 14 Waist 51 

Depth of scye 10>1 Hip 52 

To natural waist \7 l / 2 Seat 48 ) i 

TO DRAFT. 

Square lines A, B, C and A, S. 

A to B is depth of scye, 10jX inches; to C is U'/z inches, 

natural waist; to D is 19 inches, fashionable waist, 

and to E is full length of coat, 40 inches. 
Square lines B, C and D. 
B to F is yi of breast measure. 
F to G is 2% inches for seams and make-up. 
Square down from G through K to 13. 
In a normal figure the waist should be 4 inches less than 

breast, 42 waist and a 46 breast. 
From 42 to 51 is 9 inches extra fat; half of this amount 

is 4y> inches. Divide this into three equal parts. 

Each of these parts will be \y 2 inches; add 3 inches 

from K to L, being Y$ of extra fat which is added to 

the front of the coat. 
Square down from L to 12. G to M is '/& breast. 
Recede Y\ of an inch at M for every inch of fat added 

to coat; therefore, M to N is Y\ of an inch. 
Square up from N to X for center of neck. 
Draw line from G to X. 
Shape front center line from X. adding 1 inch at 10 

from dotted line, and Yi inch from G to 11, tapering 

down to nothing at L. 
N to O is Y\ inch less than Y& breast. 
Square up from O through 9. 
B to H is blade. 
H to I is V/ 2 inch. 
A to S is J^ breast plus }/> inch. 
S to T is Ya, of an inch. 
Draw a line from T to I. 
I to J is '4 breast and y 2 inch. 
Square up from I and J. 

V and Z is Y\ of an inch below I and J breast line. 

V is halfway between Y and Z. 
Square down from V to W. 

V to 5 is '/ inch. W to 6 is 1 ' 4 inches. 6 to 7 is D4 
inches, G to 20 is Ya oi an inch, and 20 to 21 is 2^ 
inches. 

21 to 22 is Y\ inch. 

In a normal coat Y\ iiicb is taken out between the back 
and sidebody, and 1% inches between the sidebody and 
forepart at waist line. Having added % of the extra 
fat in front, there is Yi i eIt to be added to the side and 



back. Divide this amount into three equal parts of j4 
inch each, and add two parts or 1 inch to forepart from 
6 to 7, and one part J/2 inch from 22 to 23. 

To regulate the width of back, a measure is taken on the 
body as from A to 3, which in this case is 8J/2 inches. 
This is applied from A to 1 in drafting. 

U to 3 is 1 inch. U to 2 is IY2 inch. 

Draw a line from 1 to 2 which will regulate the width of 
back at 3. 

2 to 4 is y 2 i ncn down and forward. 

Y to 30 is Yb net breast. 

Apply strap measure from I up to P and make a sweep. 

Cut out back and lay in position, as shown in diagram. 

Apply overshoulder measure from I to Q and make a 
sweep. 

Cut out back and lay in position, as shown in diagram. 

.Apply closing measure from 1 through 30, 31 and 32, 
and down to R, and reduce shoulder point at 31 ac- 
cording to measure. 

Draw straight line from 30 to 32 ; 9 to 10 is Y breast. 

Lengthen sidebody fs of an inch below waist line, as 
from 17 to 25. Sweep from 11 to 13 and 12, using 
shoulder point 9 as pivot. 

26 is one seam below sidebody. Draw a line from 26 
to 13 for length of forepart. 

Yi of extra fat added from K to L is taken out in a V at 
waist line. 

The front length of forepart will be wherever sweep 
line crosses the front at 12, and the top of skirt will 
be wherever sweep line will regulate the extra amount 
to be taken out. 

Draw a straight line from 17 to 13, make a point at 14, 
and measure forepart from 14 to 26 and sidebody from 
25 to 17, and make skirt same amount, from 14 to 24. 

21 to 27 is Y2 of natural waist length. 

27 to 28 is l-Y inch for normal. 

28 to 29 is Y$ inch extra for extra seat. 

In a normal coat the seat should measure 1 inch more 
than the breast"; for every inch that the seat is more, 
add Y% of an inch from 28 to 29. 

24 to 18 is the same as D to E. 

13 to 19 is the same as 24 to 18. 

Measure forepart and lapel from 14 to 15. and make 
skirt same amount, less y 2 inch from 14 to 16. 

THE LAPEL. 

Draw straight line from 12 to 33. 
12 to 15 is 2y 2 inches. 

35 to 39 is 2>Y& inches. Sweep from 10 to 33 by L. 
Draw a line from F through 33 to 34. 
The width of lapel at notch is 2f4 inches and the collar 
2*4 inches. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



PLATE LXVI. 



127 



."2 



\ 






\ 




128 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LXVII. 



SINGLE BREASTED FROCK— ERECT FIGURE. 

Drafted by the Short Measure Method. 



This draft is produced by the short measure method 
for a figure two degrees arm and two degrees smaller 
blade, from the following measurements. 

Depth of scye 8^4 Closing 1334 

Natural waist length, 16>1 Blade 11 

Fash, waist length 18 Breast 38 

Full length 36 Waist 32 

Strap 13 Seat 38 

( )vcr shoulder 17j4 

to draft. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3}i inches. 

B to C is l /i breast. 

C to D is -54 inch. 

Apply depth of scye from D up to E. 

This will lower back two degrees or l / 2 inch as from 
A. to E ; spring out top of back Yi the distance from 
A to E, then shape center of back from E through B, 
coming in 34 inch at C and 34 inch at 12. 

E to F is 34 breast. 

F to G is Ya inch. 

C to H is 1 inch more than J4 breast. 

H to I and H to J is 34 inch more than 34 breast. 

Apply blade measure from D to K. 

K to L is V/2 inches, showing that the blade is J4 inch 
smaller than proportion. 

I to 2 is J4 mc h and J to 1 is Y> inch. 

1 to 3 is Yi breast, but as the back has been lowered at 
top of neck, I lower the shoulder point the same 
amount as from 3 to 4, J4 inch, and raise J4 inch as 
from 3 to X. 

4 to 9 is 234 inches and 9 to 10 is Ys inch. 

12 to 13 is 2^4 inches. 

13 to 14 is Ya inch, and 14 to 15 is '4 breast, the blade 
being 3^ inch smaller than proportion, add Y& inch as 
from 14 to 17, and take the same amount from side- 
body as from 15 to 18. 

15 to 16 is 1 Ya inches. 

16 to 19 is 3/2 inch and T A inch taken out in the V at point 
33. 

In small-waisted figures the suppression should be taken 
out under the arm, but not between back and sidebody. 
C to N is 2j4 inches more than T i breast measure. 
N to O is % breast. 
Square up from O to P. 



P to is 34 inch or the same amount that the back has 
been lowered as from A to E. 

to R is 34 inch or 3<2 the amount of the variation in a 
small blade. 

R to S is 34 inch less than % breast. 

Apply strap measure from E to G ; place this at point 

U and measure up on line S for point T. 
If the front strap and depth of scye measures are both 

taken correctly, the distance from S to T will be 1 inch. 
B to 73 is Y? inch, or the same amount as from 3 to X. 
Draw a line from T to point 73, and from T to point X. 
T to W is Y& inch less than G to V. 

4 to V is Y& inch. 

1 to 63 is Ya breast. 
Q to 5 is 34 breast. 

5 to 6 and 5 to 7 is Ys inch. 

Apply the over shoulder measure from 11 to 40; place 
this at point U and measure up for point 39, then apply 
closing measure from point N. 

Measure up to point V ; place this amount at point U and 
measure up for point W. 

In the erect form the shoulder point will come a trifle 
above the construction point at W. 

From line L to U is J4 inch. 

Sweep from point Y for Z, using shoulder point T as 
pivot. 

32 is halfway between point Z and 31. 

Square back from 32 to point 23. 

Make a point as at 22 and 34, measure forepart from 34 
to 33, 20 and 21 to 29, and make the- skirt the same 
distance from 22 to 23. 

13 to 24 is 34 the natural waist length. 

24 to 25 is Y inch. 

For a normal figure the skirt would come through point 
25. but in this case the seat is one inch less than the 
normal. 

Come back 34 inch as from 25 to 26. 

23 to 27 is 34 inch more than 29 to 30. 

Z to 28 is the same as 23 to 27. 

N to 35 is 1 34 inches. 

The notch for the sleeve on the back is 1-12 the point 
from X to 41. but as the back has been lowered the 
sleeve notch must be lowered the same as shown by 
the arrow point 42. and the distance between 41 and 
42. which in this case is 34 inch, must be taken off 
from the under sleeve and added to the top sleeve. 

Shape as represented. 



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Coat and Vest System 



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PLATE LXVII. 




130 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LXVIII. 



SINGLE BREASTED FROCK— STOOPED FIGURE. 

Drafted by Short Measure Method. 



This draft is produced by the short measure method 
for a figure two degrees stooped and two degrees large 
blade, from the following measurements : 

Depth of scye 9^4 Closing 13j4 

Natural waist length, 17'j Blade - 12 

Fash, waist length 19 Breast 38 

Full length of coat, 38 Waist 34 

Strap 12 Seat 38 

Over shoulder 18 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3^4 inches. 

B to C is Yi breast. 

C to D is Y inch. 

Apply depth of scye measure from D up to E. This will 

raise the hack two degrees or '}4 inch, as from A to E. 
Advance top of back Y of the distance from A to E. 

Then shape center of back from E through B, coming 

in y% inch at C and Y inch at 12. 
E to F is Ye. 
F to G is Vd, inch. 

C to H is 1 inch more than ' j breast'. 
H to I and H to J is T 4 inch more than % breast. 
Next apply blade measure 12 inches from 11 to K. 
K to L is D/2 inches. 
By comparing the blade measure plus l'j inches added 

for make-up, you will find that point I has been ad- 
vanced r j inch as from L and 2 to I. 
Advance point J to \ l A inch and H to 8 J4 inch. 
Pont 1 to 3 is Yi breast, but as back has been raised at 

the neck, I also raise shoulder point as from line 3 up 

to V Y inch and lower point y 2 inch as from line 3 to 

X y 2 inch for front shoulder. 
Z to N is 2Yi inches more than y 2 breast measure. 
N to O is Y breast. 
Square up for point P. 
P to is Y2 inch or the same distance that back has been 

raised from A to F. 
to 53 is T 4 inch, being half of the amount of stoop. 
53 to R is T j inch, being l A, the difference for large blade. 
R to S is '4 inch less than Y breast. 
S to T is 1 inch. 
Draw a line from R to N. 
T to 5 i« Y inch 'ess than Y\ breast. 
B to 53 is T 2 inch or the same distance as there is from 

3 toX. 
Draw a line from T to B and T to X. 
T to W is Ys inch less than G to V. 



Now apply strap measure from A to G. Place this 
amount at point U. Measure up to T the strap length. 
This should strike the point T on point S; then apply 
the over shoulder measure from 11 to 40. Place this 
at point U and measure up to 39 ; then apply the clos- 
ing measure from M to V. Place this at U and meas- 
ure up to point W. The shoulder point will usually 
come a trifle below point \Y in a stooped figure. 

THE WAIST SUPPRESSION. 

12 to 13 is 2 J 4 inches, and V to 9 is 2J4 inches. 

13 to 14 is Ya inch. 

14 to 15 is J4 breast. 

15 to 18 is \Y inches. 
9 to 10 is 5 s inch. 

In a stooped form, reduce the sidebody Y °f the extra 
blade size as from 14 to 16, Y 0I an inch. Add this 
amount as from 15 to 17, Y OI an inch. 

From line 2 to U is Y inch, and 2 to 7 is Y> breast. 

THE SKIRT. 

13 to 24 is J4 of the natural waist length. 

24 to 25 is Y2 inch. 

Draw a line from sidebody point down through point 25, 

the run of skirt. 
1 )raw a line down from front of arm scye to the waist 

line, making a point as at 19 and 22. 
Sweep from sidebody point Y for point Z, using shoulder 

point T as pivot. 
32 is halfway between 31 and point Z 
Square back from 32 to 33. 
Measure forepart from 19 to 20, then sidebody 

from 21 to Y, and make skirt the same distance from 

22 to 23. 
The spring of skirt in a normal coat runs through 25 ; in 

this case the seat is 1 inch less than normal, therefore 

reduce Y i ncn as from 25 to 26. 
23 to 27 is 1 seam more than 29 to 30. 
Z to 28 is the same as from 23 to 27. 
N to 33 is 1J4 inch and from line 31 to 33 is 1^4 inches. 
From 5 to 6 is 1^4. 
The width of lapel at notch is \Y inches. 

The sleeve notch on the back is 1-12 down from the 
normal height of shoulder; in this case the shoulder has 
been raised J4 inch, so the sleeve notch is raised J4 inch, 
as from 41 to 42, and Y inch is taken off from the out- 
side sleeve and added to the under sleeve, or in other 
words, the outside sleeve seam has been moved up for 
the stooped form and moved down for the erect. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
{'oat and Vest System 



131 



PLATE LXVIII. 




132 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J 'est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LXIX. 



WAIST SUPPRESSION. 



Controlled by Blade and Shoulders. 



On this plate are illustrated the relative positions of 
blade, shoulder and waist suppression. The solid lines 
in Diagram A indicate a proportionate pattern, and the 
broken lines represent a pattern with a blade fi inch 
larger. A to B is the proportionate blade, and A to C 
is the proportionate width of back. B to C is 34 breast 
plus y 2 inch. Line C to 13 is '/> inch, which is the sup- 
pression between the back and side body, as from point 
R to S. Line D I locates the proportionate shoulder 
point. T to U and Y to X is the proportionate waist 
suppression. 

The Large Blade. 

B to E is ;4 inch, according to blade measure, which 
has advanced the front of the scye and reduced the fore- 
part across the breast ; >4 inch. This reduction should 
be divided equally, one-half on each side of the side-of- 
neck shoulder point. Advance the shoulder point as 
from D I to J one-half of the blade increase, or -)4 inch 
from I to J. Advance K to L the same. The width of 
the scye should in all cases be regulated by proportions, 
or by the diameter of the scye. The width of the scye. 
according to my rule of proportions, is 34 breast (on di- 
vision). So in the proportionate draft there is from B 
to C 34 breast plus 34 inch, which locates the width of 
back ; and the extra 34 inch added is suppressed between 
back and top of sidebody, as from R to S. 

E to F is 34 breast plus ]/% inch, and F to 4 is J4 inch. 
This will locate top of sidebody correctly in all shapes ; 
but line F will not locate width of back correctly in all 
cases, for in the large blade form the back will be too 
wide, while in the small blade it will be too small. 

Therefore the following method should be used to reg- 
ulate the width of back : 

C is the normal point and F the abnormal width of 
back. Divide the distance between C and F into three 
equal parts, and allow two part^ for width of back. So 
if the blade is Yi inch larger the increase of back will be 
T j inch, which is 2 /i of the extra increase of blade. The 
distance from 1 to 5 will be Y\ inch, instead of the nor- 
mal 34 inch, and the top of sidebody will be -4 inch 
down. From 5 to 6 is the same as 1 to 5. 



The Waist Suppression. 

When the blade is changed it becomes necessary to 
change the waist suppression. What is really wanted for 
the form we have been dealing with is a larger pocket 
over the blade. This is obtained by suppressing -from U 
to 7 34 inch extra, which is 34 of extra increase of blade 
from B to E. 

Having advanced the scye it is well to add to the side 
body from Y to Z and Y to 8 34 inch ; reduce forepart 
from X to 9 whatever is added from V to 8 ; add from 
W to 10 whatever has been taken out from U to 7. and 
shorten the forepart from 11 to 12 whatever it has been 
advanced from W to 10. 

The shoulder point I is moved forward Ys inch upon I 
to J. and K to L is Y inch forward. Shoulder point I 
changes with the blade forward and back J /> the amount 
that the blade increases or decreases. 

The Small Blade. 

Where the blade measure is les> than normal we should 
employ a method the reverse of the above, as illustrated 
in Diagram B. 

I! is the proportionate or normal blade, and C the nor- 
mal width of back. B to E is Y inch, according to blade 
measure. E to F is 4 breast plus J4 inch. Divide the 
distance between C and F into three equal parts, add 34 
of this amount, as from line 3 to 4 and 1. F to 5 is the 
normal 34 inch suppression. 

So from line 3 to 5 is l / 2 inch ; but as 34 inch has been 
added to width of back, as from 3 to 1, there will be only 
4 inch suppression between the back and sidebody point, 
as from 1 to 2. 

The shoulder point I is moved back Y inch from D to 
G. and the same amount is taken out of the forepart 
from K to L. 

T to U and Y to W is the suppression in a normal coat. 
Fill in from l T to 7, which is 34 the amount the blade has 
receded from B to E. Y to Z is Y inch. W to 9 is 34 
inch. 

Shoulder point O will in nearly all cases remain in the 
same place. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J 'est System 



133 



PLATE LXIX. 




134 



Stone's . Idvanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LXX. 



PROPORTIONS. 



Scve and Neck. 



Diagram 1. 

Diagram 1 represents the proportionate construction 
of a coat from the breast line up to the neck. A to B is 
shoulder height, 3^4 inches, for a figure 5 feet 8 inches 
high and 36 breast. The distance from A to B is con- 
trolled by the bone structure of the spine and shoulders, 
and will vary according to the different position of the 
bones. B to C is a proportion of the breast, giving the 
height of arm circumference. B to C is really a pro- 
portion of the arm scye circumference, but to simplify 
matters we take it for granted the arm scye is in propor- 
tion to the breast. In this case B to C is l /z breast. 
This foundation, as was stated before, is for a figure 5 
feet 8 inches high and 36 breast. Diagram 1 is the pro- 
portion of this figure. The width is divided into 16 
parts, 8 parts for half of the coat. The back contains 
3 parts, the arm scye 2 parts, the front 3 parts, making 
8 parts for half the coat, 16 parts for the entire breast. 
This rule is absolutely correct, such as has been proven 
by thousands of my disciples. C to D is one part; C to 
E is two parts; C to F is three parts for the back (36 
breast, 18 on ]/% scale for each part) ; C to G — M is four 
parts or the first part of the eight parts of the arm scye 
(36 breast, 18 on % scale) ; C to H — N is five parts; the 
second part of the arm scye ; C to 1 is six parts ; C to J is 
seven parts, and C to K is eight parts, */> of coat circum- 
ference; 7 to 6 is one part of the breast. Shaded cir- 
cle, using 6 as a center, represents the neck circumfer- 
ference ; 5 is neck point, and you will notice that it is 
controlled by the breast, in this case making the neck a 
true proportion of the breast; 5 to is depth of gorge. 
This distance from A to 1 and from 5 to fits this pro- 
portion neck size. This means that the neck to be in 
proportion to the breast should contain two parts of the 
breast. The arm scye to be in proportion to the breast 
must be % breast for the depth and two parts of breast 



for the width, 
cases only. 



This rule holds good in proportionate 



Diagram 2. 



Diagram 2 shows a simple mixed proportion from 
Diagram 1. The figure is still 5 feet 8 inches tall, but 
measures 40 breast. It is found upon our anatomical 
calculations that the neck is in proportion to the breast, 
but the arm scye is not. The arm scye is in proportion 
to 36 only. To produce this result the proportions are 
mixed as follows: 40 back and 40 front; 40 neck, but 
a 36 arm scye ; A to B is 3^4 inches (proportion of 
height ) ; B to C is l /s of 36 arm scye proportion, not a 
proportion of 40 breast ; C to D is one part ; C to E is 
two parts; C to F is three parts of 40 breast, giving the 
desired result of a 40 back proportion; F to G — M is 
one part of 36 breast proportion, and F — L to II — N is 
two parts of 36 breast proportion for arm scye ; H to I 
is one part ; H to J is two parts, and H to K is three 
parts of a 40 breast proportion. The distance across 
breast line, C to K, will not measure 20 inches, half of 
the breast, because the arm scye being only 36, the loss, 
as you see, is the difference between two parts of a 36 
breast proportion and six parts of a 40 breast proportion. 
The neck circumference is in proportion to the breast, so 
will contain two parts of 40 breast proportion, as A to 1 
and 6 to 5. 

Diagram 3. 

Diagram 3 represents another simple mixed propor- 
tion, being a 44 back and front, a 44 neck, but still con- 
taining a 36 arm scye. The back from C, B, E and F 
contains three parts of 44; F to G to H is two parts of 
a 36; H to 1, J and K contains three parts of 44 front 
proportion. The neck being in proportion to the breast 
contains two parts of the breast. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



135 



PLATE LXX. 




136 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LXXI. 



COMPOUND MIXED PROPORTION. 



Diagram 4. 



Jn this diagram you will, after carefully study- 
ing the diagram, as well as thoroughly reading the fol- 
lowing explanation, see perhaps for the first time the 
real value of the science of mixed proportions. This 
diagram has been planned for a draped overcoat. The 
figure is 5 feet 8 inches high and measures 36 breast. 
An extreme garment is desired. It is desired to drape 
the back and front to a 46 breast proportion, giving ten 
sizes increase over the breast measure taken over the 
vest. This admittedly is an extreme case, simply done 
to illustrate the working power of mixed proportion. 
The arm scye of a 46 breast proportion would be too 
great, so a smaller arm scye must be had. Two sizes 
are allowed for a sack coat, and two more sizes for the 
overcoat, making four sizes increase from the actual 
breast, 36, making a 40 arm scye proportion. The neck 
increased two sizes for the overcoat, making the neck 
38 breast proportion. Summing up our requirements, it 
is found, in order to produce the desired result, the fol- 
lowing mixed proportions are used: Front, 46; back, 
46; arm scye, 40, and neck, 38; height, 5 feet 8 inches. 
Having the required measure, proceed to map out the 
mixed proportions. 

THE MAPPING OF MIXED PROPORTIONS. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3 units and l /> inch of height, 3^4 inches in 

this case (height 5 feet 8 inches). 
B to C is Yi of arm scye proportion, 40 (20 on y$ scale ). 
A to 3 is Y\ height, 17 inohes. 
Square out from B, C and 3. 

Back width is to be 46 proportion, so from C to F 
must contain three parts of a 46 breast proportion. C 
to D — L is one part of 46 ; C to E — M is two parts, and 



C to F — N is three parts. This gives a true 46 back 
proportion. It will be noticed that from A to L is one 
part of 46 breast. This one part is used as the back 
width of neck, provided the neck was a 46, but in this 
case the neck is only a 38 proportion, so it is necessary to 
reduce the one part, as from A to L, which is a 46 pro- 
portion, to a 38 proportion. A to W and B to V is one 
part of 38 breast proportion. 

From C to F, which is a 46, excepting the neck, which 
is a 38 proportion, as from A to W. Now for the arm 
scye, as from F to H, F — S to G — U, is one part of 40; 
F — S to H — T is two parts of a 40, completing the arm 
scye width. From H to K is the front width. H — O 
to I — P is one part of 46; H — O to J — Q is two parts, 
and H — O to K — R is three parts of 46. This com- 
pletes and gives a true 46 breast proportion. R to Q is 
one part of a 46 breast proportion, because a 46 front 
is desired. The distance from Q to P is the half of the 
diameter of the neck, which is a proportion of the breast, 
46. P is the neck point of a 46 proportion, but a 38 
neck is required, so it is readily seen that the neck cir- 
cumference must be made smaller. Q is the center of 
neck circumference, whether it be a 36 or 56 neck. Q 
to X is one part of 38, reducing the circle, as illustrated 
by heavy black circle ; the light circle is the 46 propor- 
tion. Notice the distance from Q to P and from Q to 
X. P is neck point for 46, while X is that of a 38. 1 
to 2 right angles simply illustrates the reducing of neck- 
circumference. Y to Z shows the reducing of the neck 
from a 46 to a 38. The distance along breast line from 
C to K will not measure 46. Because 3 to 4 is 46 pro- 
portion ; 4 to 5 is a 40 proportion, and 5 to 6 is a 46 
proportion. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J 'est System 



137 



PLATE LXXI. 




#" 



~<&r 



~?*r 



**§> 



138 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LXXII. 



MIXED PROPORTIONS. 



Of Scye and Neck. 



I herewith present the diagrams of the proportionate 
scye and neck. Diagram 1 represents the scye, which 
for a normal figure is 1 inch less than */•> of breast 
measure. To 17 scye add 1 inch, making it 18, which is 
the proportionate scye for a 36 coat. 
Point A is half-way between Q and R. 
A to B and A to C is y$ breast, or B to C is ^4 breast. 
C to D is x /i breast, using J4 breast for width and y's for 

height. 
D to H and E to J is }i inch, which gives the actual 

height of the shoulder, as shown by shaded portion on 

diagram. 
Point M will close in to point K, and point L comes 

down to point K. 
C to F and B to G is }i inch, which is allowed for ease 

over the actual size. 



In using mixed proportions the actual size of scye, 
with 1 inch added, is used in drafting, so a 36 coat may 
have a 35, 36 or 37 size scye. In normal figures the 
scye will be 1 inch less than half of breast. If a 44 
size breast figure has a proportionate large frame the 
scye will be 1 inch less than yi of breast; but if the 44 
breast figure has a small frame or bone structure the 
same size as the 36 breasted figure and the extra size is 
simply flesh development, thus the scye will be smaller, 
the same as if the frame is large and with little flesh on 
it, then the scye will measure more. 

The same rule applies to the height and width of 
shoulder. If the scye is smaller, as is the case in fleshy 
forms, the shoulder will be lower and smaller, and by 
using the proportions of the smaller scye this is ob- 
tained ; and if the frame be large and bony the shoulder 
will be wider and higher and the arm scye larger than 
proportion. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



139 



PLATE LXXII. 



1 



R 



/ J 






— r-M> 




H 






^^N 






Of 






i 


N 


n. 


\'S r ' ' * 








F 




*j 


^^l 


£fflfifif£'}] 







B 




A/% 



140 



Stone's . Idvanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LXXIII. 



MIXED PROPORTIONS,. 



The Neck Gorge. 



Diagram 2 represents the neck. The proportionate 
neck is Y% of the breast, as follows : 36 breast divided 
by 8 is A l / 2 inches; multiply this by 3 and we have 13 l />, 
which is the close neck; to this add \]A inch, making 
it 15, which is the proportionate neck for 36 breast. 
To find the proportionate neck for each size use this di- 
vision of breast. When we have the actual size of neck, 
or shirt collar, say that our client wears a 15 collar, 
deduct from this \y 2 inch and the remainder is 13^4 ; 
find 13) 2 on thirds of the square; see how much this is 
in inches (in this case A]/ 2 inches), take A x / 2 inches on 
the fourths and you will find it 18, or the neck of a 36 
breast. 

We will now take an 18 collar: \ l / 2 inch less is \6 l /> 
inches; \6 l / 2 on thirds is 5 [ /> inches; find this on fourths 
and we find it to be 44 breast. 

Now take the reverse method first explained : 44 
breast divided into eighths, which gives us 5 l / 2 inches; 
multiply this by 3. making it 16)4, then add \y± and we 
have 18 neck. Now if our client has a small neck we 
must cut a smaller gorge, and if a larger neck a larger 
gorge, or neck hole. Now, for illustration, say 15 neck 
circumference, see neck. Diagram A. The diameter of 15, 
as from 1 to 2, is a small fraction over J/j (for all practi- 
cal purposes use l /i ) , which in this case is 5 inches. 
Find 5 inches on fourths scale on the square, and we 



find it to be 20, or y 2 inch more than y^ breast for the 

width of back as from F to G, thus making the width 

of back l /i neck from F to G. The shoulder seams of 

the garment may be changed to suit style and fancy, but 

the actual size of width of the back must be Ys the size 

of neck. 

F to I and G to J is 1-24 neck. 

I to L and J to K is ^4 neck, and l / 2 inch for seams. 

Point D is in the center of the neck. When point K 
and L closes in to H, as it will when coat is on the 
body, the neck gorge will close in to the circle of the 
neck. If our client has a smaller neck we take Diagram 
B, place it on top of Diagram D, and close in neck all 
around. The distance from F to G and J to K and I 
to L will be less. If we use the large neck circle, like 
Diagram C, the neck hole will be larger. So in mixed 
proportions we use the actual size neck, and the actual 
size arm scye, with the actual size breast, each one in- 
dependent of the other. 

In loose fitting or draped coat the neck and arm scye 
must be up to actual measure, while the breast size may 
be increased to style and fancy, and this is why I call 
it mixed proportions, and I use mixed proportions in 
cutting the close fitting coats as well as the large and 
draped garments. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and 1 'est System 



141 



PLATE LXXIII. 




142 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and I 'est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATES LXXIV AND LXXV. 



PLATE LXXIV. 



MIXED PROPORTION— DRAPERY. 



Height Increase and Decrease. 



The height of man affects the coat at the following 
sections : Height of shoulder, which increases or de- 
crease^ one-sixteenth of an inch for every inch increase 
or decrease for height. The natural waist length will 
increase or decrease one-quarter of an inch for every 
inch increase or decrease for height. The seat length 
will increase or decrease one-eighth of an inch from the 
waist line, or increase or decrease three-eighths of an 
inch for every inch increase or decrease from top of 
hack (socket bone). The full length of coat increases 
or decreases three-eighths of an inch for every inch in- 
crease or decrease for height. 

Diagram \. 

Diagram A represents backpart for a figure 5 feet 8 
inches tall. A, B. C and D illustrates shoulder height 
increase from 5 feet 8 to 6 feet, one-sixteenth of an inch 
for each increase. E, F, G, H, I, J, K and L show de- 
crease from 5 feet 8 inches to 5 feet, one-sixteenth of an 
inch decrease for each inch. 

The arm scye, W, X, Y and Z increases for flesh de- 
velopment and does not increase or decrease for height, 
but will move up or down according to height increase 
or decrease. M, N, O, P, Q and R, waist' line, decrease 
from 5 feet 8 inches one-fourth inch for every inch to 5 
feet 2 inches. 1. 2, 2.2. 5 and 6 is seat line decrease, 
one-eighth inch from waist line : 7, 8. 9 and 10 show in- 
crease : 11, 12, 13, 14. IS and 16 show decrease in length 
of coat, and 17, 18, 19 and 20 increase in length. The 
increase and decrease on this illustration is for height 
only. 

Diagram B. 

I present Diagram B as an illustration to help explain 
my mode of producing draped garments, giving a result 
of mixed proportions. The idea conveyed here is the 
keeping of the same arm scye and neck circumference, 
simply inserting size for drapery. The heavy black 
lines represent a normal pattern 36 breast and 36 propor- 
tions, arm scye and neck circumference. 

Now for drapery, using mixed proportions. I have a 
regular 36, and I wish to produce a draped coat 1 by us- 
ing a 40 front. 40 back, but keep the 36 arm scye and 
neck. To do this I have four sizes increase, from 36 
to 40. One-half inch added to the pattern makes one 
size (1 inch on the double"). 




Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



143 



PLATE LXXV. 




The Forepart. 

G G is first position. G to H is 1 inch, J4 inch for 
each size inserted for drapery. S to P is 1 inch. This 
gives a 40 breast proportion, a 40 back proportion, keep- 
ing a 36 arm scye and neck. Arm scye at R is in center 
of both a 36 and the draped position 40. There has been 
quite a discussion on points G and H as to their posi- 
tion in draped garments. 



The Backpart. 

Point F and A is regular normal 36 arm scye propor- 
tion. These points must be kept. A A is first position ; 
B B is second position. A to B is J 4 of an inch for each 
inch of drapery, 36 to 40, therefore A to B is 1 inch, C 
to D is the same, 1 inch. D to M is same increase. 

The dash line is draped back from a 36 to a 40 width 
only. 



144 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



SLEEVES. 



In order to produce the correct size of sleeve to fit the 
arm scye the sleeve must be cut by the size of the scye. 
First measure the size of the scye, then make a notch on 
the back of coat pattern for the outside seam of sleeve, 
then make a notch on forepart for the front center of 
sleeve. The front notch for the sleeve on the coat is Y\ 
inch up from the breast line, and the back notch is ~% 
breast up from bottom of scye line, or down 1-12 breast 
from line top of shoulder. This last point only holds 
good where the distance from breast line to top of shoul- 
der is J /3 breast. Therefore the better way is to go up 
% breast from breast line to locate the back notch. The 
sleeve is drafted by the breast measure in the following 
manner: If the size of the scye is 17, the sleeve is draft- 
ed by 36 breast ; always take the actual size of scye, to 
this add one inch which corresponds with half of breast 
measure; 17 scye, add 1 inch making it 18, half of 36 
breast; cut sleeve by 36 proportion; 18 scye, add 1 inch 
making it 19, cut sleeve by 38 breast ; 21 scye. add 1 inch 
making it 22, cut 44 size sleeve. Always add one inch to 
scye measure and multiply the amount by two to find the 
size of breast to cut the sleeve by. 



The scye in a normal coat in all sizes will be one inch 
less than half of breast. The scye in a fat man's coat, 
over 44 breast, will be on the average of 2 inches less 
than half of breast measure. Measure the scye and add 
one inch to scye measure for drafting power, as follow - 
Scye 21. add 1 inch making it 22; twice 22 is 44; draft 
sleeve by 44 proportion. 

The scye in normal coats, where client lias a muscular 
arm, sometimes measures as much as half of breast. In 
such cases cut the sleeve by the breast proportion found 
by adding one inch to actual size of scye. Size 40 sleeve 
in a 38 coat, or for a fat man 44 sleeve in 46 breast coat. 

If this principle is adhered to the sleeves will in all 
cases be the correct size for the scye. First be sure that 
the arm scye is the correct size, then cut the sleeve by it. 

If in a try-on the scye has been made larger or smaller 
the sleeve must be altered to fit the scye. 

In locating the back notch on the coat for the sleeve 
seam, the proportionate breast measure obtained from 
the size of the scye must be used. 



Stone's . Idvanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



145 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LXXVI. 



THE SLEEVE. 



Cut by the Arm Scye Circumference. 



Place forepart of the coat as diagram 1, and back part 
as diagram 2 on drafting paper, so that the side seams at 
3 and 4 lap Y\ of 1 inch ; this closes in the arm scye. 
Mark around pattern, transferring the fore and back 
part on the paper, the arm scye being in a closed posi- 
tion ; mark off front notch as arrow indicates at 5. Mark 
off under sleeve notch as arrow indicates at 5. Draw 
front balance line of sleeve as from 7 to 8. Draw breast 
line across at bottom of arm scye line 9 to 10, thus 
placing the pitch or hang of the sleeve for a normal 
figure whose arms are neither forward or backward. 
S is front notch J4 inch from 9. 
5 to 7 is up 34 °f arm sc ye 38 (19 on 34 scale). 
7 to 31 is down 1-12 breast ( 19 on 1-12 scale). 
Square out from 7-11 and out from 12-31. 
Measure the distance from front notch 5 up around arm 

scye to 6, in this case 9J4 inches. Apply this distance 

straight across from 5 to 13. 
14 is half way between 5 and 13. 
Square up from 14 to IS and down to 16. 
Draw a line from 15 to 5. 
Measure the under sleeve distance from 5 around arm 

scye up to 13-14, to 6 under sleeve notch, in this case 

8^4 inches. 
Make the distance from 5 to 17 the same. 
17 to 18 is % inch for seam. 
Shape under sleeve from 18 to 19 to 5. 
Square down from 13 to 27. 
27 to 28 is Y A inch. 
9 to 20 and 8 to 21 is 1% inches. 
9 to 19 and 8 to 22 is V/ A inches. 
23 to 24 and 25 to 26 is J4 inch. 
Shape top sleeve as from 22 to 24 to 21. 
Shape under sleeve from 19 to 26 to 22. 
Place long arm of square on 14 so that the corner of 

square rests on point 18 and mark off 18 inches down 

from 9 for inside sleeve length. 
Square out on short arm to 29, measure off 7 inches, 

giving a 13-inch cuff finished. 
Shape the top sleeve from 13 to 15—5$ inch out from 30 

to 5 to 20. 
Shape under sleeve as represented ; fold paper double 

and cut it out. 



PLATE LXXVI. 




21822 



146 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LXXVII. 



THE HALF AND HALF SLEEVE. 



The sleeve is drafted by the size of the arm-hole, 
which in this case is 18, to which we add one inch for 
drafting power, making it 38. 
Square out and down from A. 
A to B is 1-12 ; A to C is J4 and C to D is 54 inch. 
D to L is the length of sleeve. 
M is half way between D and L. 
C to E is 34 inch l ess than l / 2 . 
F is half way between C and E. 



Square up and down from F. 

Draw a line from C to G. 

U to V is 54 inch. 

K to T is one inch and E to J is one inch. 

X is half way between F and H. 

M to N is 54 inch. 

C to O and L to O is 54 inch. 

D to P and L to R is 54 inch. 

L to S is 7 inches. 



PLATE LXXVII. 




Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



U7 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LXXVIII. 



SLEEVE FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE. 



The sleeve for fat and corpulent figure is drafted 
in the same manner as the regular sleeve, with the excep- 
tion that while 1 inch is added from the construction line 
at the elbow in a normal sleeve, nothing is added at the 
elbow on the sleeve for a fat man, as the increase at the 
top on the sleeve brings it ample width at the elbow 
without any extra addition. The sleeve is drafted by the 
scye measure. In this case the scye is 21. To this add 1 
inch, making it 22 or 44 proportion. For slender and 
bony figures the sleeve top should be extended above the 
construction line a trifle, thus making the sleeve head 
higher, while for corpulent figures who have narrow 
shoulders the sleeve heads should be flattened down. 



TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. A to B is 1-12. 

A to C is 34 breast. C to G is }i inch. 

G to E is the sleeve length, I834 inches. 

D is half way between G and E. D to F is ^ inch. 

C to H is J4 inch less than y 2 breast. 

J is half way between C and H. 

Square up and down from J and draw a line from K to C. 

P is half way between J and O. H to M is 1 inch. 

L to M is 34 inch. 

Lay the corner of square at E, letting the long arm rest 

on J. 
Square across from E to U. E to U is 7 inches. 
Shape as represented. 



PLATE LXXVIII. 




14S 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LXXIX. 



TO PITCH THE SLEEVE. 



Now, why not notch the sleeve and have the journey- 
men put the sleeve in according to the notches? I hear 
some of you say, "Well, I leave that to the coat-maker; 
he can better see how the sleeve hangs after it is basted 
in." Now be frank with yourself and admit that really 
you don't know how to notch the sleeves. Is this not a 
shame for a cutter to admit ( even though it be only to 
yourself), that you really don't know how to cut a sleeve 
and notch it so that it will fit into the arm scye? Do 
you know how much fullness to put into the top sleeve 
and how much to the under sleeve? If you do not, then 
the sooner you take up this study the better for you, for 
you will then know how to cut a sleeve and make the 
proper notches, on the sleeve and in the arm scye, so that 
the sleeve will hang right in the finished garments. 

The study of how to cut and hang sleeves is something 
that every cutter should take up, for simply learning a 
sleeve system is like a man buying a musical instrument, 
for unless you learn how to play on your musical instru- 
ment you will not be able to get any music out of it, and 
you cannot in all cases depend on your piano player, "the 
coat-maker," to get the right pitch of the sleeves. You 
better learn how, yourself, so that you can instruct your 
coat-maker how to do it. Some cutters cut the same 
kind of a sleeve for all kinds of coats, no matter what 
shape and form the customer may be. Other cutters, 



again, are for everlastingly changing the shape of the top 
sleeves for all different shapes and forms. Now, there 
is not as much difference in the shape of the top or the 
under sleeve ; when we cut a sleeve for a man that has 
a high and broad shoulder, which is for a bony, lean and 
lanky man with a scarcity of flesh on the frame, the 
shoulder bones project out. and in this case a higher 
sleeve top as well as a wider shoulder is needed, while in 
the stout and fleshy man with an abundance of flesh over 
the frame the shoulders are narrow, and in this case less 
sleeve top and a narrow shoulder is needed. Then we 
have the narrow and wide shoulder effect, the changes of 
which are shown in Diagrams F and G. The solid line 
K to D is the medium width of shoulder and the solid 
line on the sleeve from A to line E D is the normal 
sleeve. If we want the narrow effect of shoulder we re- 
duce the width of back and shoulder as per dotted line 
K B to D, and increase or raise the sleeve top as from A 
to B the same amount that has been taken off the shoul- 
der from A to B. If a wider shoulder effect is wanted. 
we add to the back and shoulder from point K and C C 
to D, and take off same amount from the sleeve top as 
per broken line C. This will only change the location of 
the seam and will in no other way affect the fit of the 
sleeves. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



149 



PLATE LXXIX. 




150 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATES LXXX. AND LXXXI. 



So far we have taken care of the top of the sleeve ; 
the next thing is the pitch of the sleeve. I hear some of 
my readers say: "Of course the tailor has to baste the 
sleeves in and find out how they hang before he sews 
them in." Correct again, but when I say pitch the sleeve 
I do not mean that the coat-maker should be slinging the 
sleeve forward or back in the arm-hole to get it to hang 
right. No, sir, I do not, for I have notched the sleeve 
as well as the scye and I propose to have these notches 
meet. They must meet, and they will if the sleeves are 
pitched right. Here again is where attitude and position 
of the man cuts a big figure. Get up and stand in front 
of a mirror and assume a normal attitude and let your 
arms hang clown by your side ; relax the muscles and let 
your arm hang down in a natural position. Next assume 
the stooped position. The top of the sleeve of course 
will go with the shoulder, in a forward position, while 
the arm will hang straight down and the sleeve will be 
too long in front and too short in the back. Next assume 
the erect attitude ; the shoulders go back, the sleeve top 
goes with the shoulders, yet the arms hang straight down 
and the sleeve will be too long in the back and too short 
in front. Assume the different positions of normal, 
stooped and erect ; look at yourself in the mirror and 



note how the arms will hang and you will readily un- 
derstand what I mean by pitching the sleeves forward 
for a stooped, and backward for the erect figure. Here 
is how I do it. Draft the sleeve or change it from a 
regular block pattern (block pattern with the size of 
arm scye preferred). Diagram A illustrates the regular 
normal sleeve, line A B being the front balance line. 
Mark off the top of the sleeve, as from G to H to F; 
pivot on point G and swing sleeve back from B to E 
one inch ; copy sleeve off as per lines from G to E to D 
and up to F, and we have a sleeve for an erect figure. 
The sleeve has been pitched back one inch, shortening 
the back length at F. 

Next we have the forward pitch for the stooped form, 
which is shown by Diagram B. Copy off the top sleeve 
as per line G H to F. Then swing sleeve forward one 
inch from B to E and copy off sleeve from G to E and D 
to F. In this case the outside sleeve length has been 
lengthened at point F. Try it right now. Take your 
regular sleeve pattern and cut out the two other sleeves 
with the forward and backward pitch. Then compare 
the three sleeve patterns and you will be surprised to see 
the changes that have taken place in the top of the 
sleeves. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J 'est System 



151 



PLATE LXXX. 



PLATE LXXXI. 





152 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J 'est System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LXXXII. 



VESTS. 

The vests are drafted the same as the coats, with the 
exception that only 2 inches are added to half of breast 
measure instead of 234 inches in the coat. The average 
length of the vest may be obtained by taking 34 of the 
height and 34 of the waist circumference and arid them 
together as follows : 

34 of height 17 inches. 

34 of 32 waist is 8 inches. 

To this add 1 inch 1 inch. 

Length 26 inches. 

34- of height 17 inches. 

34 of 48 waist 12 inches. 

To this add 1 inch 1 inch. 

Length 30 inches. 

Of course the length of the vest is governed by pre- 
vailing style, but the foregoing rule can be applied to ad- 
vantage when cutting by heights and widths without any 
other measures. 

S. B. NO COLLAR VEST. 

By the regular proportionate method. 

Opening 15 Breast 38 

Full length 26 Waist 33 

Side length 2234 



TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3J4 inches. 

B to C is 34 breast. 

A to D is natural waist length. 

D to E is lyi inches. 

C to H is 2 inches more than J4 of breast measure. 

J is half way between C and H. 

J to M and J to K is 34 mcn more than 34 breast. 

K to L is % of an inch. 

M to O and L to N is J4 of an inch. 

A to 14 is 34 breast. 

14 to S is ^4 °f an inch. 

Draw a line from S to P. 

P to R is J4 of an inch. 

J to 15 is 34 inch. 

D to F is 54 inch. 

H to W is 34 breast. 

X to 11 is 34 breast. 

X to Y is 1 inch. 

Y to Z is Y% inch. 

Y to 1 is the same as A to S. 
Draw a line from Y to P. 

Y to 3 is the same as S to R. 

Lower back at neck y> inch as from A to U and S to T. 
8 to 9 is 1 inch more than 34 waist. 
F to 10 is 1 inch more than V± waist. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and J 'est System 



153 



PLATE LXXXII. 




154 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LXXXIII. 



DOUBLE BREASTED VEST. 



The draft is made by the proportionate method, from 
the following measures : 

TO DRAFT. 

Opening 12 Breast 38 

Full length 27 Waist 34 

Side length 23}4 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3^4 inches. 

B to C is Ys breast. 

A to D is natural waist length, 17 inches. 

Square lines B, C and D. 

C to E is 2 inches more than 34 of breast measure. 

Q is half way between C and E. 

Q to S and Q to R is 34 inch more than 34 breast. 

Square up from S and R and square down from Q and 

E and square up from E to G. 
G to H is Y% breast. 
Draw a line from H to E. 
H to I is 34 breast. 
I to J is 1 inch. 



A to L is ]/(, breast. 

L to M is }i inch. 

Draw a line from M to K and J to K. 

Hollow shoulder as from M to K ; lower top of back 34 

inch as from A to N and M to O. 
K to 9 is Y\ inch. 
8 to 10 is 1 inch. 
Q to Z is ]A inch. 
S to 14 is 34 breast. 
J to P is the same as O to 9. 
Apply length of opening from N to O and J to E, adding 

24 inch for seams, then apply full front length to 2 

and add 1 inch for seams. 
Apply side length to 5, with one inch for seams. 
D to T is ■/& inch and T to 7 is 134 inches. 
T to U is 34 waist and 1 inch. 
V to Y is 34 waist and 2 inches. 
W to X and 3 to 4 is 34 inch taken out in a V. 
Line 2 and 12 is 34 back of line F and V. 
12 to 13 is 3 inches, and 2 to 11 is 234 inches. 
The width of lapel at notch is 1^4 and the collar is 1 

inch. 
J to 15 is ^ inch. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



155 



PLATE LXXXIII. 




156 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LXXXIV. 



FIVE BUTTON DOUBLE BREASTED VEST. 



The accompanying diagram brings forth the full breast 
idea, by taking out a dart in the forepart. The special 
feature of this diagram, besides its style and outline, is 
that of a variation made at the neck and shoulder points, 
to produce sufficient length around the collar, which in- 
variably gets short, particularly in single and double 
breasted no collar vests. The draft is produced from 
the following measures : 



Breast 38 Front length. 

Waist 33 Side length. . 

Opening 11 Back length . 



.26y 2 

.22>y 2 

.isy 



TO DRAFT. 

Square out and clown from A. 

A to C is 3^4 inches. 

C to D is Yi breast. 

A to E is natural waist length. 

A to B is down J4 inch. 

B to F is back length. 18j/j inches. 

Square out lines C. D and E. 

D to G is y 2 breast and 2 inches. 

G to H is back y% breast, net 19 on x /& scale. 

D to I is y 2 breast with addition 21 on ' _• scale. 

I to J and I to K is Is breast each way with addition 21 

on % scale. 
Square up lines J and H and K. 
Square down from I and G. 
A to O is % breast net 19 on ' ,, scale. 
Draw a line from Q, which is % inch above construction, 

through A. 
M to N is y, breast less 2 sizes, 17 on J /$ scale. 
N to O is down 1 inch. 
Draw a line from O to L. 
R is y 2 inch from L. 



Make the distance from O to P the same as Q to R. 
Shape arm scye Y\ of an inch down from breast line. 
O to 14 is out y 2 inch. 
Apply your opening, adding }i of an inch at W. Then 

continue down for front length to 10-264>. add 1 inch. 
Apply side length from B to 0, and O to 11 add 1 inch. 
12 is T j inch down from 11. 
E to 2 is y 2 inch. 
Take out 1 inch between 3 and 5. 
Take out from 6 to 7 the necessary amount to make up 

waist, in this case 1 inch. 
7 to 8 is 7y> inches. 

Shape dart as illustrated by shaded portion. 
X to Y is 3 }4 inches wide. 
9 to 10 is l J j inches wide. 
To space buttons fold forepart J4 inch back from G, X 

4 and 10. Then perforate with pencil. This will space 

buttons correctly. 

VARIATION. 

The difficulty experienced by cutters is that in all 
single and double breasted no-collar vests, the collar 
around neck is always too short, causing a badly wrinkled 
shoulder. The following, however, will without a ques- 
tion of a doubt rectify this difficulty. Widen back from 
Q to S ^4 of an inch, shape concave into T. This cuts 
quite a curve on back, which is necessary to produce 
length. Reduce front at shoulder point the same amount, 
amount, Y\ of an inch from O to U ; shape to V. 

Recede neck bands from 17 to 18. J4 of an inch, mak- 
ing 18 to 19 regular width and shape into V. 

When back is laid on shoulder seam you will observe 
that by laying edges of seam together the curve in 
back forces back strap forward, giving considerable 
length around neck, which is really wanted to produce a 
clear shoulder. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 

Coat and J 'est System 



157 



PLATE LXXXIV. 




158 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LXXXV. 



FULL DRESS VEST. 



The accompanying diagram of a Full Dress Vest has 
a V-shaped opening, finished with a shawl collar. The 
draft is made by the proportionate method from the fol- 
lowing measures: 

Opening 2\ l / 2 Breast 38 

Full length 2Sy 2 Waist 34 

Side length 22 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3}i inches. 

B to C is yi breast. 

A to D is natural waist length, 17 inches. 

Square lines B, C and D. 

C to E is 2 inches more than half of breast measure. 

F is half way between C and E. 

F to G and F to H is }4 inch more than % breast. 

A to I is % breast. 



I to J is Y% inch. 

Shape shoulders from J to K. 

K to 3 is 1 inch. 

F to Y is Yi inch. 

L to M is y 4 breast. 

M to N is 1 inch. 

Draw a line from N to K. 

A to J at the top of back would be the height of coat ; 

lower the vest back as per line 1 and 2, l / 2 inch. Make 

width of shoulders from N to O whatever the back is 

from 2 to 3. 
N to 5 is the same as width of back. Apply lengths. 

adding the proper amount for seams. 
D to Q is 24 of an inch. 
Q to R is % of waist, plus 1 inch. 
S to T is % of waist, plus 1 inch. 
to W is \% inches. 
Shape as shown in diagram. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



159 



PLATE LXXXV. 




160 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LXXXVI. 



DOUBLE BREASTED DRESS VEST. 



The draft is made by the proportionate method from 
the following measures: 



( )pening 20J4 Breast 

Front length 2634 Waist 

Side length 22 



.38 
.34 



Back length 1834 



TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to G is 3^4 inches. B to C is 34 breast. 

A to D is natural waist length, 17 inches. 

Square lines B, C and D. 

C to E is 2 inches more than half of breast measure. 

G is half way between C and E. 

G to I and G to H is 34 inch more than % breast. 

A to N is 34 inch more than 34 breast. N to O is 54 inch. 

M to P is ]A inch. P to is 1% inches. 



9 is l /2 inch below G. 

D to Y is y s inch. 

Lower top of back 34 inch, as from A to S and O to R. 

E to F is 34 breast. Square up to J. 

J to K is 34 breast. K to L is 1 inch. 

Draw a line from L to M. 

L to T is the same as R to Q. 

L to 2 is 34 inch less than S to R. 

Apply length of opening from 2 to 3, and full length 4, 

then side length from 2 to 7, adding ->4 inch for seams. 
U to X is 34 waist measure plus 1 inch, and Y to Z is 

34 waist measure and 1 inch. 
U to V is ?4 inch, establishing line V W, which is the 

front center of forepart. 
5 to 6 is 2 inches. L to 1 is 34 inch. 
S to 10 is 19 inches. 
Shape as represented. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



161 



PLATE LXXXVI. 




3 V 



162 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LXXXVII. 



SINGLE BREASTED NO COLLAR VEST FOR CORPULENT FIGURE. 



The draft is made from the following measurements: 

Back length 20 

Breast 46 

Waist 49J4 



Opening 17 

Full length 30 



Side length 25 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 7>Y\ inches. 

B to C is Ys breast. 

A to D is natural waist length, \7]A inches. 

D to point 8 is \ l /> inches. 

Square lines B, C and D. 

C to F is 2 inches more than JX of breast measure. 

II is half way between C and F. 

H to I and H to J is J4 inch more than Ys breast. 

J to K is J/ inch. 

I to L and J to M is Y\ inch. 

H to 23 is Y inch. 

F to G is Y breast. 

In a normal vest the waist is 4 inches less than the 
breast: in this case we have 7j/£ inches of extra waist 
size; of this amount J4, which is 2J4 inches, is added as 
from 9 to 10. From O to P is % inch for every inch of 
fat added to the waist in front. In this case 9 to 10 is 
2*/2 inches. Hence the distance from O to P is Y inch. 
P to S is Y breast. 
S to T is 1 inch. 



A to Y is Y breast. 

Y to W is Y inch. 

Shape top of back from A to W and W to 3 the same 

as for a coat ; then from A to X and W to point Z is 

Y inch. 
3 to 4 is 1 inch. 

Shape back from 4 through point L to 23. 
Draw a line from T to 3. 
T to V is the same as Z to 4. 
K to N is Y breast. 

Shape arm scye from V through N and M, to 23. 
S to R is Y inch. 
T to U is J/J inch. 

Shape front from R through 24 and 11 down to 20. 
Apply length from X to Z ; place this at T and measure 

down for opening and full length, then apply side 

length to 22. 
10 to 11 is 3 inches. 
Apply waist measure from 11 to 14, one-fourth of waist 

and 1 inch. 
D to 6 is Ys inch. 
Apply Y 0I waist measure from 6 to 15, adding 1 inch 

for make up. 
Take out a V as from 14 to 16 in the lower pocket. 
A vest with a collar is drafted the same, the collar being 

laid on flat. 
Shape as represented. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



163 



PLATE LXXXVII. 




164 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LXXXVIII. 



SINGLE BREASTED DRESS VEST. 

For Corpulent Figure. 



Opening 21 Breast 40 

Full length 27 Waist 40 

Side length 23 >4 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3^4 inches. B to C is y, breast. 

A to D is natural waist length. Square lines B, C and D. 

C to E is 2 inches more than half of breast measure, 

and R is half way between C and E. 
R to T and R to U is % inch more than % breast. 
A to M is y inch more than % breast, and M to M is 

Y% inch. 
J to K is ^ inch. Draw a line from N to K. 
K to L is \ l / 2 inches. Lower back y 2 inch as from A 

to O and N to P. D to 8 is -% inch. 
E to F is % breast. Square up from F to G, and square 

down from E through V. 



Note — In a normal figure the waist is 4 inches less 
than breast. In this case breast and waist are both the 
same, giving 4 inches of fat. Of this amount add J4 
nr \y$ inches) to the front, as from V to W. 
Square down from W to Z. 

G to X is y the amount added to front from V to W. 
Shape front center line from X through E Y down to Z. 
X to H is y% breast and H to I is 1 inch. 
I to 1 is 3/ inch. Draw a line from I to J. 
I to Q is the same as P to L. I to 2 is y> inch less than 

O to P. 
Apply front length, first opening from 2 to 3, then full 

length to Z, and side length to 5. adding y inch for 

seams, and in the side Y\ inch extra for the V cut out 

in the lower pocket. 
Y to 7 is 1 inch more than y waist measure. 
8 to 9 is 1 inch more than y waist measure. 
6 to 7 is V2 inch. O to 11 is 19 inches. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and I 'est System 



165 



PLATE LXXXVIII. 




166 



Stone's . Idvanced Superlative 
Coal and Vest System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE LXXXIX. 



VARIATIONS IN VESTS. 



Diagram B. 

Diagram B represents a single breasted notch collar 
vest for a small-waisted figure. The pattern is drafted 
by the usual method and the illustration here only 
shows how to get it close to the waist. 

Breast, 38. Waist, 32. 

The breast measure is from A to C >'> the breast and 
2 inches. B is half way between A and C. D to E is 
34 of waist measure and 1 inch. Draw a line from S 
to point Q. Split the pattern through from S to O and 
move the side piece backwards as from S to T 1}4 
inches. Then pleat the forepart over from 5 to 6, run- 
ning out to nothing at Q. This will bring point E over 
to 8 and F over to R, and B will come up to point 7. 
Then re-shape the forepart as per dotted line, T, R, 8 
and 7. Then take a V between 9 and 10 as indicated by 
shaded portion. The point of forepart under the arm 
has been raised as from B to 7, and we have practically 
taken out a V in the arm-hole, which makes the forepart 
fit closely around the scye and produces a large chest. 
If our client has a large chest as much as 3 inches may 
be taken out between S and T. H to N is l /$ breast 
and }i inch. N to O is 1 inch. O to G is % waist and 
\Y\ inch. To find the exact amount of spring needed 
over the hips, a measure taken over the lower part of 
the vest can be taken and applied as follows : From Y 
to S, T to R, U to V and W to X, one-half of the hip 
measure and 3 inches for seams and over-lap of the 
front edges. A great many cutters seem to have but a 
faint idea of shaping a collar of a vest. The collar 
should have symmetrical lines to some other part of the 
garment. It will be noted that the notch of the collar 
at point 12 runs on a parallel line with the front edge 
and the notch at point 11 runs on a parallel with the bot- 
tom of the vest. The width of the notch may be accord- 
ing to style or fancy. From % to 1 inch would be the cor- 
rect amount. The width of the collar in the back should 
not be over j>4 of an inch wide. 

Diagram C. 

Diagram C gives a further explanation of how to take 
out the V in fli*> r -.t- e n?rt for a small-waisted figure. 
Draw a line as from 26 to 28 and split forepart through 
from 26 to 28, then swing the side piece over about \ l /z 
inches from 26 to 27 and lay a pleat on the forepart as 
from 28 to 29. Point 25 will then come to 34, and 31 



will come to 32, and 29 will come down to 30. Point 
37 is the point of the regular forepart, but by pleating 
it over in the side the regular run of the side seam will 

PLATE XC. 




Stone's . Idvanced Superlative 

Coat and Test System 



167 



PLATE LXXXIX. 




168 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



then come off and up J<+ of an inch, as from 37 to 33. 
Then take out a V between 35 and 36 as shown by the 
shaded portion. In Diagram B. I have pleated the fore- 
part in the arm scye, showing that by so doing the fore- 
part gets higher and smaller at point 7, but in Diagram 
C, where I have pleated the vest forepart under the arm, 
I have raised point 37 to 33, also reduced it to have it 

PLATE XCI. 




run on a line with 32 and 34. Now, take and look at 
any of your vests when on the client, and you will 
find that the forepart is invariably long under the arm 
and around the bottom of the arm scye. Of course, if 
your vest maker draws in the arm scye when making 
up the vest you will get rid of this surplus length, but 
how many vest makers — and for that matter, how many 
cutters — pay much attention to this? The vest maker 
runs the garment up just the way it is cut and the cutter 
pays too little attention to the vest. 
Diagram D. 
We will now proceed to Diagram D, which illustrates 
a double breasted no-collar vest. The regular pattern 
is indicated by the solid lines A, B, C and D. Now, as 
every cutter knows, the front edge, particularly the open- 
ing of a double breast vest, will always be too long and 
requires a whole lot of drawing in to make it fit and con- 
form to the body. The object of this diagram is to show 
the cutter how the front edge may be shortened with- 
out drawing it in, for how will the front of a vest made 
of striped material look if the front edge is drawn in? 
The stripes will turn over with a hook. Besides the 
front edge will in a short time pucker up and be un- 
sightly. Take the regular vest pattern and split it 
through the top pocket, as from F to E. Pleat forepart 
at point H, running out to nothing at point E. Point A 
will then come over to K and J, I will come over to J, 
C will come over to L and D up to M, and a V will be 
taken out as shown by shaded portion from F to G, run- 
ning out to nothing at E. Some cutters will say, "Oh, 
yes, but you have straightened the shoulder," So I have, 
but you shrink in the front edge opposite point H and 
you have also straightened the shoulder. Sew up the 
seam from the end of the top pocket to the side and 
you have shortened that y? inch or two seams. This will 
tend to crooken the shoulder some. After the V has 
been sewed up, lay the forepart on the top of the origi- 
nal pattern and you will find that the shoulder has not 
been straightened, only you have put breast into the vest 
and the stripes on the material run perfectly even, for 
the front edge need not be held in at all. If you have a 
real small-waisted client, a V taken out in the forepart, 
as shown on Diagram C, may be operated, and instead 
of running the V out in the side seam it can be run 
through the bottom V up to the pocket and through the 
pocket, and then pleat the forepart over. By pleating 
the forepart over at point H it will be noted that the 
vest forepart becomes somewhat shorter and the extra 
length must be added on at point 38. The opening of 
the vest also has been raised, so if you want to retain 
the same opening the top button must be lowered ac- 
cordingly. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



\m 



Diagram E. 

Diagram E is the forepart of a vest for a corpulent 
figure, and the forepart is drafted up to the measure- 
ments. The dotted line P, R, Q, S, V, represents the 
regular drafted pattern. Split through lower part of 
the pocket as from P to N. Swing the forepart down 
about 1 inch as from P to R. Pleat over as at S. Point 
Q will then come down to T. Reshape the bottom as 
from T through U to V. 

Diagram F. 

Diagram F shows how to change a vest for a corpu- 
lent figure from single to double breasted. The pocket 
is operated the same as explained in Diagram E. Re- 



duce the front edge *4 of an inch from the ordinary 
single breasted vest, then draw a straight line for the 
lapel seam as from 4 to 5, continue the opening from 1 
to top button or length of roll. Make the width of lapel 
2J4 inches from 6 to E and l 1 /- from 5 to F. Add one 
seam to the lapel at point 4, also make it % of an inch 
longer so that it will sew on even to the forepart. In 
locating pockets on vests the front end of the pocket 
should come down on a straight line parallel with the 
front, as shown by dotted line 10 to 21. 

Note. — All other variations, such as for stooped and 
erect, large and small blades, use the same method as 
employed in drafting the coats by actual measures. 




170 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



STONES RELIABLE BLOCK PATTERNS. 

These patterns are strictly up-to-date in style and outline. They are tested patterns, the principles of which 
we have been using for years. Our patterns are used by the best tailors all over the country. 



Patterns For Men's Garments. 



Block Patterns, Breast Size. 



S. I!. Frock Coat. Each 

S. B. Sack Coat. Each 

I ). I '.. Sack Coat. Each 

D. B. Frock Coat. Each 

Dress Coat. Each 1.50 



Heavy 
Manila. 
.$ 1.2S 
. 1.00 
. 1.00 
. 1.50 



1.50 

1.50 

2.00 

2.00 

Paletots, Paddocks. Each 2.00 



S. I'.. Overcoat. Each. . . 
D. B. Overcoat. Each... 
Yoked Overcoat. Each... 
Inverness Overcoat. Each. 



S. B. Vest. Each 

Dress Vest. Each 

D. B. Vest. Each 

Trousers. Eacli 

Riding Breeches. Each .... 
Riding Leggings. Each .... 
Bicycle Pants, plain. Each. 
Bicycle Pants, cuffs. Each. 



./3 

.75 
.75 
.75 

1.50 
.75 
.75 

1.00 



Light 

Manila. 

$ 0.75 

.65 

.65 

1.00 

1.00 

1.00 

1.00 

1.50 

1.50 

1.50 

.45 

.50 

.50 

.50 

1.00 

.50 

.50 

.75 



Sizes 34 
Sizes 34 
Sizes 34 
Sizes 34 
Sizes 34 
Sizes 34 
Sizes 34 
Sizes 34 
Sizes 34 
Sizes 34 
Sizes 34 
Sizes 34 
Sizes 34 
Sizes 30 
Clerical 
Knights 
Hoods 
Capes. 



to 43. 
to 43. 
1-43. 
to 43. 
to 43. 
to 43. 
to 43. 
to 43. 
to 43. 
to 43. 
to 43. 
to 43. 
to 43. 
to 42. 
Coats. 



Heavy 
Manila. 

Full set $10.00 

Full set 10.00 

Full set 10.00 

Full set 12.00 

Full set 12.00 

Full set 13.00 

Full set 13.00 

Full set 16.00 

Full set 16.00 

Full set 16.00 

Full set 7.00 

Full set 8.00 

Full set 8.00 



Full set. . 
Each . . . 
Templar Coats. 

Each 

Each 



Each . 



9.00 
1.50 
1.50 
.50 
1.00 



Light 
Manila. 
$6.00 
6.00 
6.00 
7.20 
7.20 
7.80 
7.80 
9.60 
9.60 
9.60 
4.20 
4.80 
4.80 
5.40 



SPECIAL PATTERNS CUT TO MEASURE. 

Cutters' Combination Set of Patterns. don't alter the measure or method, but mention the fact. 
S B Frock Coat si/.c ..34 to 43 Seat measure taken over the prominent part of the 

I) 1 ' Frock Coat size 34 to 43 seat ' ni tne same manner as the breast and waist meas- 

S. I ', Sack Coat, size 34 to 43 ures are take »- 

S B Overcoat size ..34 to 43 Natural waist length, fashionable waist length, seat 

S I'. Vest size . ..34 to 43 length, full length of garment, and sleeve length. 

Trouser, size I waist i 30 to 42 Vest and Trouser measures in the regular manner. 

Cut from heavy Manila or Rope paper, $40.00. Send either the short or lon g «ie a s»>"es as follows, or 

Combination Fr« ints f« >r D. 1!. Sack Coat. both if desired. 

Combination Fronts for D. 15. Overcoats. Short Measures. Shoulder Measures. 

Combination Fronts for D. B. Vests. Depth of scye, strap, Strap, upper shoulder. 

Cut from light-weight Manila, $30.00. Over shoulder, closing, Lower shoulder, back 

S. B. Frock Coat, size 34 to 43 Blade, arm scye circum- width. 

S. B. Sack Coat, size 34 to 43 ference. 

S. B. Vest, size 34 to 43 Any Other Proof Measures. 

Cut from heavy Manila or Rope paper, $20.00. Fur all garments always give height, collar size, and a 

Cut from light-weight Manila, $15.00. clear description of customer. Descriptive dispropor- 

-r, ,, tions, decrees of deformation, (such as taught by the 

Required Measurements. . * A ■ • . 

Chicago College of Garment Cutting, is perfection per- 

Breast measure taken from the back close up under the sonified.) Always give degrees of stoop, erect, slope or 

arms, just so tape slips around the body, not tight. squa re, long or short neck, one shoulder low, etc. 

Note. — Take breast measure the same always, and if For Overcoats. — Always mention whether the meas- 

loose fit is desired, mention it. ures are taken over the vest or over the under coat. If 

Waist measure taken around natural waist line in the no mention is made as to how the measures are taken, it 

same manner as the breast. If a loose fit is desired, is presumed the measures are taken over the vest. 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



171 



PATTERNS FOR LADIES' GARMENTS. 



Basque, bust. Each 

Jackets, bust. Each 

D. B. Reefer, bust. Each . . . 
Cutaway Coat, bust. Each . . 
D. B. Frock, bust. Each . . . . 

D. B. Ulster, bust. Each 

D. B. Vest, bust. Each 

Costume Skirt. Each 

Riding Skirt. Each 

Divided Riding Skirt. Each. 

Bicycle Skirt. Each 

Riding Breeches. Each 

Leggings. Each 

Golf Capes, bust. Each 

Double Capes, bust. Each . . 
Single Sleeves. Each 



.$1.00 

. 1.00 

. 1.00 

. 1.00 

. 1.25 

. 1.25 

. .50 

. .75 

. 1.50 

. 1.50 

. .75 

. .75 

. .25 

. .75 

. 1.00 

. .50 



Sizes 32 to 42. 
Sizes 32 to 42. 
Sizes 32 to 42. 
Sizes 32 to 42. 
Sizes 32 to 12. 
Sizes 32 to 42. 
Sizes 32 to 42. 
Waist 20 to 32. 
Waist 20 ti i 32. 
Waist 20 t( - 32. 
Waist 20 to ^2. 



Full set $10.00 

Full set 10.00 

Full set 



10.00 

Full set 10.00 

Full set 12.00 

Full set 12.00 

Full set 5.00 

Full set 10.00 

Full set 10.00 

Full set 7.50 

Full set 7.50 



All these patterns are cut to order, single or in sets, at 
regular prices. 



Measurements. 



Length of waist and full length of garment ; the under- 
arm length from arm scye to small of waist; the front 
length from center of back at neck to largest part of bust 
and down to waist in front. Length of sleeve should be 
taken with a square under the arm to wrist. Take the 
size of sleeve at elbow and at hand. Take bust measure 



easy and waist snug, and hip easy. If the garment is to 
button up to the neck, the size of neck must be given. 
For skirts, take front, side and back lengths and waist, 
also hip measure. In ordering skirt patterns, state what 
width goods is to be used, as the gores must be cut ac- 
cordingly. 



All special patterns according to measures are cut from drafting Manila paper only, and at prices quoted in the 
first column of this price list. Light weight Manila patterns furnished only in regular sizes. 

All orders for patterns must be accompanied by cash remittance of at least fifty per cent of the amount or- 
dered to receive attention. All orders executed promptly. 

THE CHAS J. STONE CO., 
Security Bldg., Chicago, 111. 



m 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 




WmSSmSSmmm^mmM 



m BBMmm 










-. ^-.■—"MJKimm 




CHICAGO, ILLINOIS 




TERMS FOR INSTRUCTION 

TO BE PAID IN ADVANCE. 



Men's Garments 

Preliminary course in drafting by proportions from heights 
and widths : 

Coats alone $ 30 00 

Vests alone 20 00 

Trousers alone 20 00 

Coats, Vests and Trousers together 50 00 

Advanced course in drafting coats and vests by shoulder 
measure method: 

Coats alone $30 00 

Vests alone 20 00 

Trousers by actual measure 20 00 

Coats, Vests and Trousers together 50 00 

Advanced course in drafting coats, vests and trousers by the 
ihort measure method : 

Coats alone $ 30 00 

Vests alone 20 00 

Trousers by actual measure 20 00 

Coats, Vests and Trousers together 50 00 

Mixed courses : Proportions, shoulder measure and short 
measure methods combined : 

Coats alone $ 50 00 

Coats and Vests together 75 00 

Coats, Vests and Trousers 100 00 

How to Apply Individuality in Cutting 25 00 

How to Make up Garments $15 to 25 00 

Practical Course: Laying patterns on the cloth, cutting 

the goods, trimming up of garments and trying on... 50 00 

Shirts 25 00 

Drawers 15 00 

Overalls 15 00 

Jumpers 20 00 

Canvas Coats 25 00 

Hunting Coats 25 00 

Military Garments 50 00 

Capes, Hoods, Leggins and Gaiters 50 00 

Riding Breeches 25 00 

Shifting Block Patterns, short course 25 00 

Shifting Block Patterns, full course 50 00 

Spacing 25 00 

Grading 50 00 

Anatomical divisions and heights and widths 50 00 

Form Growth for Sizing Patterns 50 00 

Copying Garments 25 00 

Laying Patterns and Marking on Cloth 50 00 

Special mixed courses at special prices 



Ladies' Garments 

Preliminary Course : Proportionate Method, drafting from 
heights and widths: 

Dress Waist $15 00 

Shirt Waists 15 00 

Blouses 15 00 

Jackets 15 00 

Box Coats 15 00 

Capes 10 00 

Skirts 15 00 

Dress Waists, Blouses, Jackets, Coats, Capes and Skirts 

together 50 00 

Advanced Courses: Drafting by proportion and actual meas- 
ure methods : 

Dress Waists 25 00 

Shirt Waists 25 00 

Blouses 25 00 

Jackets 25 00 

Box Coats 25 00 

Capes 15 00 

Skirts by actual measure 25 00 

Dress Waists, Blouses, Jackets, Coats, Capes and Skirts 

together 50 00 

Riding Habits 

Jackets $25 00 

Side Saddle Riding Skirts 25 00 

Divided Skirts 15 00 

Riding Breeches 25 00 

Gaiters and Leggins 15 00 

Caps 10 00 

Underwear 

Night Robes $25 00 

Chemises 25 00 

Drawers 20 00 

Corset Covers 20 00 

Under Skirts 15 00 

Drop Skirts 15 00 

Spacing 25 00 

Grading 50 00 

Anatomical divisions of heights and widths 50 00 

Form Growth for Sizing Patterns 50 00 

Copying Garments 25 00 

Special mixed courses at special prices. 

Fur Garments 
Drafting by proportion from heights and width: 

Jackets and Coats $30 00 

Capes and Collarettes 25 00 

Jackets, Coats, Capes and Collarettes together 50 00 



Stone's Advanced Superlath 

Coat and Vest System 



173 




CHAS. J. STONE, PRINCIPAL. 



CLASSIFICATION 

OF 

SUBJECTS 

TAUGHT AT THE 

CHICAGO 

COLLEGE OF 

GARMENT 

CUTTING 



Chas. J. Stone, 
Principal. 



Proportions. 



■\l 



Classes of Proportions. 
Proportions, Laws of... 



Disproportions. 



Antropometry 

(Man Measurements.) 



Heights and I _ , . \ Man j Anatomy \ Ideal 

Widths f Foundation -j Origin, History ( Parts of Man \ Figures 
Frame- Work — Skeleton— Its Use — Height 

) Muscles, Fat, Tissues l Reason I w , 
evelopment} Assimilation ( Effect l vvny- 

I Simple ( Heights — Lengths 

Mixed < Compound < and 

I Complex ( Widths— Circumferences 
Positive — Established — Origin — Reasons 
Contradictory — Practical Applications — Values — Comparisons m 

Stoop, erect, square, sloping, 
large and small blades, Ion; 
("Descriptive 



Relations 
(To each other) 



Widths 

( Styles 
- Drapery 
i Fashion 



( Simple 
\ Djrformation ^ Disproportions J Compound < 



Degrees of ] Analysis (cancel- | Complex 
^ lation) Proof 



Geometrical Construction 
(Called System.) 



Practical Knowledge. 



and short neck, one shoulder 
low, attitudes (forwards and 
backwards), all irregular form. 
Stout, corpulent, fat, small 
waist, prominent seat full and 
^ flat breast, hunchbacks, etc. 
^Collar stand, depth of scye, strap, over shoulder, 
closing, blade. Width of back, width of shoulder, 
spread of shoulder, natural waist length, seat 
length, full length, breast, waist, waist seam, 
hip, abdomen. Seat, arm scye, circumference, 
sleeve length, collar size, cuff, vest lengths, 
trouser measures, all proof measure. In fact, 
-all known measures of any consequence. 
Drafting of rCoats, Vests, Trousers, r ("Paramount ("Proportions 

Patterns J Overcoats, Fancy Gar- J Systems J Superlative! and all 

Royal 1 Actual 
Trinity v Measures. 
, Styles 

i Fashion Plates 

|D»»J- J Colors 



{Shoulder 
Short. Long 
Incline 
Indentation 
and Scale 



J Measure- 
's nients ' 
(Namely) 



All Styles for ] ment. 250 lessons comb'd.] Method 
all Figures '-Full course. Text Books. 

/Commercial Side I Lectures J Drapery 
of Tailoring 1 Special ^Individuality? 



Actual 1 Sponging, Laying Pattern (Plaids t Goods 
and Cutting of Cloth I Stripes I 
^-Trimming — Tying on — Instructions to Tailor 
Block Patterns — Changes, Manipulations, Special Orders 



IE... 
Special Subjects < Spacing— Primary to Grading 

I Grading — Designing — Advanced Post Graduate Styles 
Post Graduate Course — Subjects according to Class or Line of Business 
Private Instruction.. — Any Subject — Time Limits 



1' 1 Stone's Advanced Superlative 

Coat and Vest System 



PUBLICATIONS 

Stone's Anatomical Divisions of the Human Form and 
Form Growth from Birth to Manhood and Woman- 
hood. 

In book form $15.00 

Stone's Advanced Superlative Coat and Vest System. 

In book form 10.00 

Stone's Trouser System. 

In book form 7.00 

Stone's System of Cutting Ladies' Garments. 

In book form 10.00 

Stone's Shirt and Drawer System. 

In book form 3.00 



The Practical Cutter and Tailor. 

Chuck full of Practical Methods in Cutting, published monthly. 

Per year $3.00 



Address all orders and send remittances to 



THE CHAS. J. STONE CO. 

Chicago 



Stone's Advanced Superlative 
Coat and Vest System 



175 




A JOURNAL CHUCK FULL OF PRACTICAL IN- 
FORMATION FOR THE CUTTER AND TAILOR. 



Published monthly, per year, $3.00 



THE CHAS. J. STONE CO. 

Publishers 
CHICAGO, ILLINOIS 



•jUN 25 1310 



One copy del. to Cat. Div. 






